2nd gear gone?

putting a 98+ trans does require repinning of the trans harness.

when my 1 way clutch died it did it on a WOT 1-2 shift in drive.

the forced 4-2 shift doesnt have to be "manual shifted" to be FATAL.

when your cruising above 40MPH in 4th and you go WOT..that is a WOT 4-2 shift and those will absolutely destroy the first gen non mechanical diode (aka one way clutch)
 
check it out, your 1-2 acc piston f%^&*d up and burned the S%^t of of the clutches in your 2gear drum. what you should do is find a tranny shop or a guy who CAN bench build trannys and will allow you to make decisions on how it will be reassembled. then go to tocca and print the j-mod stuff buy a quality rebiuld kit (all over the internet from various manufactuers) and a new touqre converter. i did the 400-500 one in my 4.6 single cam marquies and it is HARSH with no bottom spring in my 1-2 and my 2-3 cap fell off on the first shift so then we were like what the F%^k but we just dident have the tabs bent enough. Build this tranny stuff it with all the extra clutches you can get a mechanical drum and call it a day.
 
just to update, i checked my fluid while the car was hot and it very thin but it manages to get to the hot side of the trans dipstick.

I was driving around and i managed to get 2nd gear back??? i was like wtf! sweet! but then i lost it again! then i lost 3 and 4 just now! so devil child pat your self on the back!

i only have first! i was hoping when i got 2nd back that it could possibly a fluid issue.

side note- how does this tranny act if its the fluid is dirty - low? I'm not leaking fluid and from what i can see i know it has nothing to do with the fluid im just curious?
 
2nd is gone, expect 3rd and 4th to follow if you DRIVE (edited by XLRVIII) it in this condition.

your prophecy was revealed on page 1.

your tranny is done, no reason to keep driving it, it's not going to "fix itself".

might as well "face the music" before it leaves you completely stranded someplace and you have to pay to tow it home.
 
Dont fight the advice Abe. I thank the lincoln gods my tranny is good....for now.
 
for sure! im not driving it anymore! I had a little bit of juice left in the tank i thought ide blow 3-4 for the hell of it!
There are many trans options out there... And from the page on Tocca (jerrys mod) they really emphasize using a 5.4 truck 4r70w. But I don't think ive read of anyone using that on here? I could be wrong though, the 98 seems to be the one to go with if im going to go with a salvage unit.
 
Bear in mind, a company like Ford makes constant revisions to things like transmissions - if i were you id look to get the most recent, lowest mileage tranny possible that will work with our cars. (something like an 02 Mustang GT tranny might be the ticket)

Of course, if you are feeling flush, you could spring for one of Lonnie's built transmissions.
 
i would if i had the money - i got about 900 bucks to make something happen.

but doesnt an 02 mustang gt only a 2v? And also there's more to just repinning it right? Something like it has a 8 gear speedo gear? and since i have obdI instead of obdII does that create more problems?
 
No idea - i'll let guys who have done it chime in. It has been done though - read about it many times on a few forums. (here also - do a search)
 
doesnt make a difference that it is a 2v it still has the same bellhousing bolt pattern. just repin and replace whatever the article on tccoa says. I cant think of them off the top of my head.
 
If you want the least amount of problems during the install...
You should get a 1998 Mark 8 transmission.

There are other options, mustang trans but you have to change the shifter assembly {A PITA)
The truck trans may be the strongest of the bunch, but unless you are very familiar with all the differences, this isn't going to be a "plug and play" type of deal.

Save yourself ALOT of trouble, money and time and get a 98 Mark 8 trans.

Then you only have to repin the harness and use the old TCC solenoid from your old transmission and your good to go.
The plug for the TCC soleniod will have to be modified, once you "see" it.. it'll all make sense.. you only have to trim a small portion of the connector away and it'll plug right in.

Hope this helps.
 
but doesnt an 02 mustang gt only a 2v? And also there's more to just repinning it right? /QUOTE]

yes there is alot more to do to the mustang trans..

the "rooster comb" (the thing the shift moves inside the trans) is backwards compared to the mark 8..
you have to swap the rooster comb around to make it work,
...and of course repin the trans harness and swap the TCC solenoid.
 
but doesnt an 02 mustang gt only a 2v? And also there's more to just repinning it right? /QUOTE]

yes there is alot more to do to the mustang trans..

the "rooster comb" (the thing the shift moves inside the trans) is backwards compared to the mark 8..
you have to swap the rooster comb around to make it work,
...and of course repin the trans harness and swap the TCC solenoid.

Is this rooster comb part inside the trans or outside?
 
well i'll get to my research some more... im hoping the guys from near me will help me out on a weekend for some cash. That might be the difference between the hassle of the 02 mustang gt or doing the 98 mark by myself?
 
The swap has been covered many times in many threads... research is your friend.
The rooster comb as it's called is the little peice that gives your shifter the "notches" when you put it in each gear..
That part on the mustangs is backwards compared to the mark 8.

Swapping it around isn't terribly hard, but for a person that needs instruction to "add transmission fluid" it's probably above your technical skills.

Do yourself a favor.. forget the truck trans, and forget the mustang trans.
There is too much to do for someone with little expereience to mess with, and too many places for "the unexpected" {like your evap lines, or the fuel pump sender} to give you problems.

I'm not bashing you here, so please dont get all "miffy".. I am being HONEST with you, and you should be honest with yourself in regards to your technical skill level.

a 98 mark 8 transmission is going to be AS CLOSE as you are going to get with an upgraded transmission WITHOUT having numerous places for a mistake to "end your day".

ALSO..
I know you aren't going to believe this, and I"m only gonna say it ONCE.

Pulling the transmission ALONE takes about 4 times as long as it takes to "drop the Kmember" and pull the motor and trans at the same time.
I did it both ways...
When we dropped the Kmember, we were IN and OUT in less than 4 hours.
Trying to wrestle the trans out alone {when my first gen trans failed) took 8 hours on the first day and 4 hours on the second day.

you will be doing yourself a favor by dropping the entire assembly out the botttom.
Just the "top two tranmssion bolts" alone make this technique well worth the trouble.

I will NEVER AGAIN, try to pull the transmission out by itself... there is just "too much work" in cramped spaces to make it work.

If you ever listened to ANY of my advice.. you should listen now.

The ears on the transmission will hang up on the exhaust and you wont find this out until you try to "lower the trans" out of the car. THEN your trans will be STUCK in the car.. but not bolted to ANYTHING.. a very dangerous scenario.

knowing your not gonna do it this way, means you will need to dedicate an ENTIRE WEEKEND for this job.
 
i would if i had the money - i got about 900 bucks to make something happen.

but doesnt an 02 mustang gt only a 2v? And also there's more to just repinning it right? Something like it has a 8 gear speedo gear? and since i have obdI instead of obdII does that create more problems?

You're going to pay BUTTLOADS more for a mustang GT trans than you will a 98 Mark 8 trans, and they are literally the SAME TRANSMISSION for the most part.. but when you say "mustang GT" the price goes UP about 500.00.

and yes the differences in how the speedometer work will "end your day".
The rear of the trans needs to be dissasembled and then you need to put the correct speedometer DRIVER gear on the output shaft.

..again, this is well above your skill level and it WILL give you endless problems if you mess something up.

AGAIN, ONLY BEING HONEST and actually TRYING TO HELP you not make a BIG MISTAKE.. and it'll be a costly mistake as well.

listen to the words falling out of my mouth.. I'm danged sure not typing all this to excersize my carpal tunnel syndrome.

GET A 98 MARK 8 TRANS..
 
um... the mustang jobs i found are around i may be lucky. They are the same prices as the mark trans' ive found so i have to disagree with you on that.

Also yea its 8 tooth instead of 7 tooth. Just pop it in with 8 tooth in there! Sure, speedometers a bit off but that can be corrected with a speedcal or the applicable speedometer corrector gear. So i dont see that ending my day?
 
The swap has been covered many times in many threads... research is your friend.
The rooster comb as it's called is the little peice that gives your shifter the "notches" when you put it in each gear..
That part on the mustangs is backwards compared to the mark 8.

Swapping it around isn't terribly hard, but for a person that needs instruction to "add transmission fluid" it's probably above your technical skills.

Do yourself a favor.. forget the truck trans, and forget the mustang trans.
There is too much to do for someone with little expereience to mess with, and too many places for "the unexpected" {like your evap lines, or the fuel pump sender} to give you problems.

I'm not bashing you here, so please dont get all "miffy".. I am being HONEST with you, and you should be honest with yourself in regards to your technical skill level.

a 98 mark 8 transmission is going to be AS CLOSE as you are going to get with an upgraded transmission WITHOUT having numerous places for a mistake to "end your day".

ALSO..
I know you aren't going to believe this, and I"m only gonna say it ONCE.

Pulling the transmission ALONE takes about 4 times as long as it takes to "drop the Kmember" and pull the motor and trans at the same time.
I did it both ways...
When we dropped the Kmember, we were IN and OUT in less than 4 hours.
Trying to wrestle the trans out alone {when my first gen trans failed) took 8 hours on the first day and 4 hours on the second day.

you will be doing yourself a favor by dropping the entire assembly out the botttom.
Just the "top two tranmssion bolts" alone make this technique well worth the trouble.

I will NEVER AGAIN, try to pull the transmission out by itself... there is just "too much work" in cramped spaces to make it work.

If you ever listened to ANY of my advice.. you should listen now.

The ears on the transmission will hang up on the exhaust and you wont find this out until you try to "lower the trans" out of the car. THEN your trans will be STUCK in the car.. but not bolted to ANYTHING.. a very dangerous scenario.

knowing your not gonna do it this way, means you will need to dedicate an ENTIRE WEEKEND for this job.


Most people drop there k-member to install there trans? why didnt you just drop the exhaust?
 
Give it a shot.. your way and let us know how it works out for you.

you have the speedometer gear differences wrong, it's not the speedoment gear on the cable that needs to be changed.. it's the actual GEAR ON THE OUTPUT SHAFT that needs to be changed.

Again, i'm telling you.. your "IN OVER YOUR HEAD".

Feel free to jump right in there, armed with bad information and little knowledge of what you are doing.

And have fun pulling off the exhaust manifolds in order to get the trans out.
I ASSURE you it is about 100 times EASIER to pull the engine AND trans out of the car.. than it is to "remove" the drivers side exhaust manifold.

But.. again.. "YOU DA MAN"..make sure you make more posts with the trials and tribulations of your "first tranny install"
.. coming right on the heels of your "first quart of tranny fluid" install.

I will say this.. your confidence level is to be commended.
 
Get some members in the area to help - gonna be hard trying to do it alone. Offer them some cash... might make things go easier.
 
well, ive already done that... and its funny the two members closest to me who ive pm'ed both have late model mustang transmissions in there mark 8's. And when I asked them what stuff needs to be done,

its My tcc selenoid from my trans, my MLPS, repinning the trans? and they said the speedometer will be off because of it being 8 tooth get a speedcal?

Here are the candidate trans' i have found with prices.

99 - mustang 10k - $450 bucks half hour away.
98 Mark trans 72K- $ 200 bucks - 3 and a half hours away
2002 Mustang 57K - $350 - hour away
2001 Mustang 42K- $350 - hour away

I'm not going to seriously set up something with another member until i have the transmission out and the candidate swap transmission purchased.

I'm eager to make the right decision - XLR's telling me to just stick with a 98, others who have the later model mustang transmissions happend to live within a half an hours driving distance of me so if i ran into problems someones pockets would def get bigger, but they both have been eager to help the way to facilitate the newer mustang trans.

In my reading i read that you dont need to switch the internal shaft you just get an orange speedo corrector gear - whats so bad about 8 teeth spinning the gear instead of 7 besides the speedo being off? speed cal?
 

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