2006 gen 2 3.9 LS Loud ticking from PS Valve cover after Changing lower intake gaskets and cooling system components... 90k miles my only car... :(

I bought a tool kit from someone on eBay... the Lincoln, LS Jaguar timing chain tool kit. The only things in the kit that worked were the bridge for the cams, the Pin Stop for the crankshaft to keep it from turning, and the shims. The other tools they showed plugging into the cam phaser...on the Lincoln would not engage with anything.
I remember people using that tool.

IIRC... OTC made the proper tool for that job. The kit wasn't cheap.
 
Pretty sure if you find the info in the manual, the "write up" for what you are wanting to do... The OTC tool is required. Joegr may know more about that.
 
secondary tensioner can collapse, easy job to do. seen it a grand total of once on a 4.3 aston

tensioner slipper pad can break off too, heard of it but haven’t run into it. these engines are getting older anything can happen
 
And before this goes any further, I would have a title search and odometer check. 90k miles seems a bit low for all these problems.

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Pay the $6.50 (or whatever it is now) and have the title run. If the odometer has been rolled back... there are steps you can go through... to be compensated.
Can a person tamper with a digital odometer?
 
It sounds like its where me secondary tensioner is where the noise is from. when I pull the v cover how can i check the tensioner?
 
Can a person tamper with a digital odometer?
Back in the day, it was a literal "rollback" of the (mechanical)odometer.

Now that everything is computerized, unscrupulous used car dealers can use a scan tool to digitally take tens of thousands of miles off the odometer.

That's why I suggested going to the NMVTIS website.

Either that, or some previous owner was mean to your LS.

Again. I have 283,000 miles on my 04 with no nasty sounds or problems with the engine.
 
...Either that, or some previous owner was mean to your LS.

Again. I have 283,000 miles on my 04 with no nasty sounds or problems with the engine.
I continue to be amazed by the people that way over extend oil change intervals and put in the cheapest crap oil they can find when they do change it. Some of these people are my relatives. People that can least afford to have to replace a car at 100K miles instead of 200K+.

 
Back in the day, it was a literal "rollback" of the (mechanical)odometer.

Now that everything is computerized, unscrupulous used car dealers can use a scan tool to digitally take tens of thousands of miles off the odometer.

That's why I suggested going to the NMVTIS website.

Either that, or some previous owner was mean to your LS.

Again. I have 283,000 miles on my 04 with no nasty sounds or problems with the engine.
ahhhhhhhh! WOW. I'll check it out!
 
Back in the day, it was a literal "rollback" of the (mechanical)odometer.

Now that everything is computerized, unscrupulous used car dealers can use a scan tool to digitally take tens of thousands of miles off the odometer.

That's why I suggested going to the NMVTIS website.

Either that, or some previous owner was mean to your LS.

Again. I have 283,000 miles on my 04 with no nasty sounds or problems with the engine.
Sucks because the interior and body look garage kept. Such a pretty car, at least i own it.... sigh. Thank God for tax season!
 
Upper left you see the old tensioner IMG 2519
IMG 2693 you see a new one installed from the back side.
The silver bar is a tool to hold cams from turning.
The Bicycle-looking thing is a lever that operates the pawl to
release the plunger.

IMG_2519.jpg


IMG_2694.jpg


IMG_2693.jpg
 
The Cam Sprockets Have NO Keyways...
That is why it is important to Have the tools to PIN the Flywheel with the NO.1 cylinder @ TDC
And the Bridge Bar to hold cams from turning. This is only necessary if you unbolt the sprockets from the Cams. I had a toolmaker make me another Bridge so I
didn't have to flop sides. The bar lays on and bolts down on the Flats on the cam so they can't turn.
You will not need to do this if only change the upper tensioner.
 
It's a board that I designed. It's an alarm and home automation
The Cam Sprockets Have NO Keyways...
That is why it is important to Have the tools to PIN the Flywheel with the NO.1 cylinder @ TDC
And the Bridge Bar to hold cams from turning. This is only necessary if you unbolt the sprockets from the Cams. I had a toolmaker make me another Bridge so I
didn't have to flop sides. The bar lays on and bolts down on the Flats on the cam so they can't turn.
You will not need to do this if only change the upper tenSo i can
And the bolts are 'torque to yield" on the sprockets. So "one time use only". Last I knew, the bolts were still available.
If i took it to a lincoln or ford dealer would they work on it?
 
I broke the bolt the... Old Timers Way (Pre Over Head Cams) by putting a socket and a breaker bar on the bolt and hitting the starter. It made an awful loud crack when it broke loose. So my guess is all the slack went out of the chains and the tensioners pushed out and locked the chain tight! I still may be wrong about all this, only time will tell for sure! All I know for sure is that... the chains were very tight, especially the P/S
Nope... you are not wrong. Next time use a "right angle impact wrench" to loosen and remove the balancer.

Using "old school" methods on newer technology can be expensive. (obviously)
 
If i broke my fuel rail pressure regulator sensor on the ps fuel rail when i was tightening the egr nut, could it just be a misfire? I broke the part where the little vacuum nipple goes from the sensor body to the throttle body???? I went out this morning and got it to operating temp and there is a code and i do have a misfire? Can the mis be causing tick??
 

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