2001 LS TPS question

DaleGrib

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I replaced my TPS cause I could not get the code to go away and the new oem one seems like it's bad, cause the car cranks fine and then starts to idle a lot higher than it should. I guess my question is does anything need to be reset after this is changed other than the fault codes or calibrated in any way? The old one did not run like this I just kept getting the codes for TPS fault. I just wanted to be sure before I returned this one to my local ford dealer.
 
What were the exact codes you were getting?
There is nothing to be reset/reprogrammed/calibrated, however you do have to install it correctly or it will be damaged.
 
What were the exact codes you were getting?
There is nothing to be reset/reprogrammed/calibrated, however you do have to install it correctly or it will be damaged.
I can't remember off hand now cause it was throwing the code for a while and I had the other repairs made on my car and time got away from me. But I seem to have got it working, I used the ForScan Tool and Reset all adaptations and it started to idle correct.
 
Interesting.
But I just went out and checked it and it was doing the same thing again so I guess that did not fix it. I will grab my scan tool out here in a few mins and get the code cause the check engine light was back on.
 
It was code p0122 sensor circuit low input and I changed back to the old TPS and reset everything again and it started running good again. Maybe the code won't come back this time otherwise the hunting begins to say the least.
 
It might be a bad/dirty connector contact or a frayed wire.
 
It might be a bad/dirty connector contact or a frayed wire.
The plastic tab is broken on the connector so that will be my first thing to replace. Can you help me with a part number for that please? I want to order a new connector it does stay tight but since the tab is broken you never know if that could be the issue.
 
Should be 1U2Z-14S411-AFB
I have one of my throttle body connectors zip tied on. I can't remember if it is the TPS or the throttle body motor.
 
Should be 1U2Z-14S411-AFB
I have one of my throttle body connectors zip tied on. I can't remember if it is the TPS or the throttle body motor.
That might be a good idea till I can afford that connector. This might be something I could go aftermarket for. I have seen them going for around $20 with good reviews.
 
so im here got a new tps put it in made a gasket even give it a little love (hi tac ) start it up suddenly im at 2grand and it wont calm down just at 2gRAND and its 1159 pm ... i got a hurricane on the way so i got to get her in the garage before anyway 2grand and holding i had to turn it off pulled the negative terminal off battery and waited for 30 50 minutes to try again still same had to pull everything and put the old one back in duh ... back to normal got in garage without smaking the water heater like these garages were designed by a moron ive got 2 inches left its a midsize what were they thinking caddilac :/ anyway back to it ... ive been chasing a gremlin our gremlins but which ones ... after looking at the manual word for word it matches my problems the tps and the maf have a lot to with transmissions systems I've been trying to solve a shallow pedal and poor first gear roughness at launch and while wanting to cruise a parking lot but its shifiting ok and at higher speeds is not as noticable i was thinking my clutch pack is fried ... after reading parts of the the workshop man i am replacing the TPS .. p.s its getting long i know ...putting it back together i noticed i could of possibly adjusted the throttle stop and wondering the previous mechanic/ car salesmen screwed up there was stripped screws to the tps had a bugger getting em out dont think he did guy must of gave up and wonder if they just advanced the idle??? i got about a 1/4 inch of threads through at the stopper anyone know a normal point on first gen sport ? ... the other is i got the wrong TPS .... no red light for this no dtc's when doing this job i had a clean slate other than p1000 makes kinda sense although adjuster bolt is stiff and looks originally set with green coloring i didnt move it but i have to go back to the autopart store and ask if they gave me the right part for the sport and or get adjusted here ... ...... to note without starting out at a nominal finger regarding resolution worn or otherwise defective the shift points are probably affected given an improper signal :/ should set a flag :/ ..... out of a window isnt asking too much on our hsw ...i didnt get a trouble light for brake also and was disapointed at that also :/ anyone have to adjust the idle for a new TPS ? or calibrate a special way ?
 
went back to the part store and returned the TPS got another Standard brand another 10 bucks installed it it worked this time no over reving its what everyone fears a cheap replacement cost not sure car runs somewhat better but im still wondering if i should of just adjusted the throttle stop or not i didnt try ... thinking that more travel is better on the pedal
 
Being an electronic system, the throttle stop isn't meant to be adjusted like an old purely mechanical system. However, it someone did turn it a little too far, it could hold the throttle further open. I've wedged a screwdriver in there to bring idle up while bleeding coolant. The car doesn't know the difference. That is why I asked in the other thread what percentage OBDII is reporting for throttle. I'd have to look in the book to see if it gives normal values, but it'd be a start

I'm assuming this only applies to gen 1
 

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