2000 Ls v8 Rear LCA source

JustALs

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Hey guys, so a year ago I bought two new Mevotech supreme rear lower control arms at 209$CAD a piece and the bushings are already shot, The outer bushing steel inserts got loose from the control arm shell on all three of them.

I was thinking that they probably broke from doing a one wheel peel with the brakes causing alot of twisting force going directly on to the LCAs bushings. Cheaply made or not im not sure if this is what broke them but definatly not planning to do that again..

I was searching google for some and came across these Moog Rear LCAs at 168$ CAD each free shipping, but they have the same bushing type as the old mevotech ones I got, not sure if they would hold up.. Has anyone tried those? And are they durable?
Thanks!
 
I've seen reports that Moog are no better these days, but i used Moog links and some front end parts cause they had grease zerks and are easy to change anyway. In my experience on the farm a greased part always outlasts a non greased one. Was looking for motorcraft rears however i was only able to find one side, other side was back ordered but mines a 2003,
 
the moog dorman mevotech are all made by the same factory in china. my dormans are doing ok but they only have like 20k miles on them and i don’t do burnouts.

this is the only way you’re going to get a OEM part without waiting. you have to put two washers on the knuckle side because the bushing is slightly shorter. otherwise you’re good to go.





if you’re willing to wait for shipping from the UK you can get the OEM part that fits with no modification. these are what ford has on backorder.



 
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the moog dorman mevotech are all made by the same factory in china. my dormans are doing ok but they only have like 20k miles on them and i don’t do burnouts.

this is the only way you’re going to get a OEM part without waiting. you have to put two washers on the knuckle side because the bushing is slightly shorter. otherwise you’re good to go.





if you’re willing to wait for shipping from the UK you can get the OEM part that fits with no modification. these are what ford has on backorder.



This is amazing! The fact that we can order LS compatible parts from FCPEuro means that, with their warranty, we could potentially be saving a lot of money on everything if we have to replace it more than once.
 
the moog dorman mevotech are all made by the same factory in china. my dormans are doing ok but they only have like 20k miles on them and i don’t do burnouts.

this is the only way you’re going to get a OEM part without waiting. you have to put two washers on the knuckle side because the bushing is slightly shorter. otherwise you’re good to go.





if you’re willing to wait for shipping from the UK you can get the OEM part that fits with no modification. these are what ford has on backorder.



They have ones that fit the 2003-2006 with no washer by chance?
 
They have ones that fit the 2003-2006 with no washer by chance?
the second link fits 03-06, it’s the ford gen2 arm. they started using the S.C (supercharged) arm casting but never updated the part number for the gen1
 
03-06 fits the same

they just started using the S.C (supercharged) arms and it got a new part number. ford never updated the part for the gen2 back to the gen1 but jaguar did
That same part fits them all you're saying?99-06? Thanks
 
Yes i know, the ones you link are 99-02 for the original poster. I need 03-06 for mine, ha, thanks.
it fits all LS and tbirds trust me

there’s at least 50 different part numbers for these arms and they’re all basically the same.
 
it fits all LS and tbirds trust me

there’s at least 50 different part numbers for these arms and they’re all basically the same.
I misread your post, and have edited mine, I believe I understand now. Thank you sir.
 
it fits all LS and tbirds trust me

there’s at least 50 different part numbers for these arms and they’re all basically the same.
Side note, and I know it's a long shot, but do you know if I could get STR brake rotors & pads and keep my stock, non-sport 2002 calipers or do I have to get S Type R calipers?
 
Side note, and I know it's a long shot, but do you know if I could get STR brake rotors & pads and keep my stock, non-sport 2002 calipers or do I have to get S Type R calipers?
no but you can get the bigger LS front sport brackets by ordering a used 04-05 XJ8 caliper and fitting the sport 320 front rotors
 
Side note, and I know it's a long shot, but do you know if I could get STR brake rotors & pads and keep my stock, non-sport 2002 calipers or do I have to get S Type R calipers?

It's alot of work... and takes some time to source the parts.


There is an easy 320mm front brake upgrade. It only requires the 320mm rotors... and sourcing Jaguar S-Type SPORT caliper brackets from Dorman.

There are also stainless braided brake hoses made by Stop Tech.
 
The only caveat to the front 320mm upgrade... is that the anti rattle clips for the brake pads will require some tweaking to keep from rubbing the rotors.

You need to use the clips... so the pads don't bind (or rattle) in the bracket.
 
The STR setup is ALOT more involved... and expensive


The LS brake system works vey well as designed... if the brake job is done properly.
 
The only caveat to the front 320mm upgrade... is that the anti rattle clips for the brake pads will require some tweaking to keep from rubbing the rotors.

You need to use the clips... so the pads don't bind (or rattle) in the bracket.
if you buy the pads for a 2004 XJ8 you will get the correct smaller clips. they only use the pad mounted ones not the bigger ones on top
 
Ry,

Keep everything factory size. Buy good quality rotors (not the cheap stuff) for all 4 corners... and use Akebono brake pads.

Don't beat on the car right away... and give the pads and rotors time to seat properly (a couple hundred miles of in town/rural driving).

You will be surprised how well it stops.

Don't use drilled and slotted rotors. They aren't necessary... and wear the pads faster.
 
Ry,

Keep everything factory size. Buy good quality rotors (not the cheap stuff) for all 4 corners... and use Akebono brake pads.

Don't beat on the car right away... and give the pads and rotors time to seat properly (a couple hundred miles of in town/rural driving).

You will be surprised how well it stops.

Don't use drilled and slotted rotors. They aren't necessary... and wear the pads faster.
Well, you're the expert here. I'll trust your advice.

BTW, how hard are these brakes to do for someone who has literally never turned a wrench in his life? Is there anything that I could f*ck up? Cause I'm scared of working on the car, but I'm also gettin' really sick and tired of paying out the *ss everytime something's wrong with this car and I figured that brakes would be a good place to start learning since they seem to be simple-ish from what I've seen so far online.
 
Well, you're the expert here. I'll trust your advice.

BTW, how hard are these brakes to do for someone who has literally never turned a wrench in his life? Is there anything that I could f*ck up? Cause I'm scared of working on the car, but I'm also gettin' really sick and tired of paying out the *ss everytime something's wrong with this car and I figured that brakes would be a good place to start learning since they seem to be simple-ish from what I've seen so far online.


fronts are about as easy as it gets. use jack stands if you value your life
 
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It would also help to go on ebay and buy the manuals for your year LS.

They actually lay out the procedures pretty well... and the torque specs are an invaluable necessity.
 

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