2000 Ls V8 bad trans. Please help

[Eles]

Hi, I am the original owner of a 2000 V8 LS ( sport model ) and I have dealt with all the typical issues so far. For the last 2 years I haven't had anything go wrong until yesterday and I was wondering if I could get some help.

I was pulling out at a normal rate when I had a slight thud not much harder if at all harder than as if someone bumped the back of my seat. Next thing you know I am bouncing off the rev limiter and coasting down the road.

Its odd to me cause I had no warnings like the "E" or any other message or check engine light pop up. It will engage park but when I take it out of park the brake disengages and it just sits freely but when I rev it up it bounces off the rev limiter again no matter what gear its in including reverse. I also do not hear the trans glide through and switch gear as I pull on the shifter.

Anyone think they can lend a hand? Could it be something electronic? I just find it odd that it barley made a sound so it really don't appear as if something busted mechanically and I got no engine light or transmission messages.

 

[bigstick1973]

will the car move at all? most likely if no codes/ lights are on its a hard part thats failed. sounds like your pump or converter went. the drive shaft or rearend ok?http://akpp-texpost.ru/5R55N.pdf

 

[joegr]

Does the gear display in the cluster match the gear that you put it in (P, R, N, D, ...)? Or does it say E or stay at P or N ?

 

[Eles]

The car wont move at all unless I push it and yes the display matches. But P does not show up when in park...??? To be honest its not something I took a mental note of to know if it ever did.:shifty:

I found this post in a similar thread. http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showpost.php?p=723393&postcount=2




Does anyone know the likelihood of this being the problem and where its located?

 

[Eles]

This site seems to be doing weird things. My posts are up one minute and then not the next. I couldnt even find my thread in the list I had to check my user CP.

Anyway hopefully this does not become a repost and Im sorry if it does but yes all the gears match up to the indicator.

I found this post in another thread:http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showpost.php?p=723393&postcount=2

Does anyone know the likelihood of this linkage being the problem and where it is located? Is it a simple fix?

 

[SlickLS]

This site seems to be doing weird things. My posts are up one minute and then not the next. I couldnt even find my thread in the list I had to check my user CP.

Anyway hopefully this does not become a repost and Im sorry if it does but yes all the gears match up to the indicator.

I found this post in another thread:http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showpost.php?p=723393&postcount=2

Does anyone know the likelihood of this linkage being the problem and where it is located? Is it a simple fix?

Honestly it sounds like your input shaft in your transmission broke. Sorry to bring bad news.

 

[joegr]

This site seems to be doing weird things. My posts are up one minute and then not the next. I couldnt even find my thread in the list I had to check my user CP.

Anyway hopefully this does not become a repost and Im sorry if it does but yes all the gears match up to the indicator.

I found this post in another thread:http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showpost.php?p=723393&postcount=2

Does anyone know the likelihood of this linkage being the problem and where it is located? Is it a simple fix?

It's not the linkage since the dash indicator follows what gear you are in.
It's not the drive shaft or differential if park stops the rear wheels from moving.
Have you checked the fluid level?

 

[Eles]

No, but it was serviced and refilled about 25,000 miles ago. A sealed trans should hold fluid longer than that unless its burning it, not?

Would I have felt more symptoms of low fluid up till this? It was very sudden. It shifted OK and everything.

Is there any electronics like connectors or anything underneath the car I could look at?

I'll check that fluid in the meantime.

 

[joegr]

No, but it was serviced and refilled about 25,000 miles ago. A sealed trans should hold fluid longer than that unless its burning it, not?

Would I have felt more symptoms of low fluid up till this? It was very sudden. It shifted OK and everything.

Is there any electronics like connectors or anything underneath the car I could look at?

I'll check that fluid in the meantime.

Transmissions, sealed or otherwise, do not consume or burn fluid. However, sometimes a leak may occur.

Yes, you should of had symptoms of low fluid level before it stopped completely, unless you had a sudden and drastic fluid loss. I would expect that you would have noticed that.

Yes, there are electrical connectors that you can check, but an electrical fault with the transmission would turn the check engine light on.

All this does point to the likely hood of a major mechanical failure.

 

[bigstick1973]

something hard has broken. i dout this is a soleniond or some other elect. problem.

 

[steelbilly]

about the same thing mine did.

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=72347

 

[SlickLS]

Like I said, I bet the input shaft inside the transmission broke. Best bet, unless you are working on it yourself, is to just put a new one in it. The dealership has comparable prices to most transmission shops and the dealers come with all new sensors and torque converter.

 

[Eles]

Like I said, I bet the input shaft inside the transmission broke. Best bet, unless you are working on it yourself, is to just put a new one in it. The dealership has comparable prices to most transmission shops and the dealers come with all new sensors and torque converter.

Actually not. It ran last night but at 4:00 am it did the same thing on me when I was going to work.

The only thing I can think of is that it rained hard last night.

My check advance track and ABS light is on now also.

 

[SlickLS]

Actually not. It ran last night but at 4:00 am it did the same thing on me when I was going to work.

The only thing I can think of is that it rained hard last night.

My check advance track and ABS light is on now also.

Something is def broke and I wouldn't drive your car anymore because you are only making it worse. No codes would mean its a mechanical problem and not an electrical problem. Good luck!!!

 

[Eles]

I appreciate your help and I am taking it all into consideration but I am trying to start at the cheapest fix as far as diagnosing the problem goes. I just find it very hard to believe that without hearing anything something broke. Its like someone just hit the power button. If this was the case it wouldn't just work for even a short period like it never happened and then again stop working without a sound. The slight very faint thud could just be changing to neutral gear for all I know. It was really the same kind of thud or feeling you get when it glides into gear.

Fluid level is fine with no signs of any leakage or damage what so ever. I'm going to get a magnetic rod today and see, if at all even possible, if there is any metal shavings inside.

Thanks so far guys. I appreciate it. Honestly, I love this car and it looks amazing in terms of whats on the road today ( IMO ), but its problematic. I would be sad, very sad to see it go but I have been saving for some time now knowing this was coming.

Any chance that I might be able to pull a code if it didn't come up on the check engine light or message center?

 

[joegr]

...
Fluid level is fine with no signs of any leakage or damage what so ever. I'm going to get a magnetic rod today and see, if at all even possible, if there is any metal shavings inside.

...
Any chance that I might be able to pull a code if it didn't come up on the check engine light or message center?

Just drop the pan and look at the magnet on the pan. If there's metal in circulation, that should be where it will be.

If you can get a Ford specific code scanner, it will give you a lot of codes and details that the generic scanners can't. It even allows you to trigger some self-tests that can help.
However, after it's said and done you will still have to tear into the transmission. There's not going to be any magic fix for this short of that.

 

[Eles]

Thank you.

I dont know anything abut transmissions so any insight is worth a shot. To me it just seems as if the transmission is actually still good but something is wrong with the shifter telling it to go into gear but that stubbornness is just do to the fact I have no clue about transmissions. I have now noticed that when I put it in select shift rather than down shift after I go into third, fourth, or fifth gear the message center stays in that gear, if thats any help. It will also not downshift into first at quarter throttle.

 

[joegr]

Something is def broke and I wouldn't drive your car anymore because you are only making it worse. No codes would mean its a mechanical problem and not an electrical problem. Good luck!!!

Worth repeating.
The more you test drive and mess around with it, the bigger your repair bill will be.

 

[Eles]

I understand that and Im not driving it. I honestly thought something was wet and just dried up as the dry weather progressed. Then collected moisture again with the bad rain and crapped out on me again. Like I said, I don't know transmission so please excuse my stubborn like behavior.

 

[joegr]

I understand that and Im not driving it. I honestly thought something was wet and just dried up as the dry weather progressed. Then collected moisture again with the bad rain and crapped out on me again. Like I said, I don't know transmission so please excuse my stubborn like behavior.

I really do understand your hope and desire that this is a $5 repair. I suspect that it is a $700 (or $300 DIY) repair, but it could be in the thousands.

(I have yet to commit to the damper pulley replacement that I know I need. I guess I'll order the parts Saturday before serious damage is done. I wounder how long the back-order situation will last?)

Anyway, I really think that if this were an electrical (connector or otherwise) issue, you would get a check engine light. Of course, never say never...

 

[SlickLS]

I really do understand your hope and desire that this is a $5 repair. I suspect that it is a $700 (or $300 DIY) repair, but it could be in the thousands.

Anyway, I really think that if this were an electrical (connector or otherwise) issue, you would get a check engine light. Of course, never say never...

My thought exactly about the check engine light being on or an E in the gear selector box. Automatic transmissions are very complicated once to get into them. Whole different ball game then a manual transmission.

OP: my input shaft in my transmission broke, without making any noise, while going 45 down the road. Just felt like the car went into neutral. I lost a couple days thinking it was something simple. Took the transmission out and took it apart to find what broke. Then had to towed to the dealership to get them to put a new transmission and all in it. Could have gotten a reman and put it in myself for $1800, but decided to pay $2800 for the dealer to put a new one in it. I really didn't have the time to mess with it and the dealer transmission came with all new sensors and new torque converter. Well worth it to me.

 

[Eles]

A neighbor works at a trans shop, pulled the trans as a favor and said it was solid, decided on getting a 2011 Subaru Legacy GT fresh from the factory. Really nice car and the paddle shift is awesome though a bit slower than you would think but faster than the SST in the LS.

Anyway, I was looking in my repair bills and found something dating way back to when I had a similar problem with the select shift. No codes, just started bouncing off the rev limiter in select shift only. Was a bad harness and a cheap fix. Any possibility there could be like some kind of main harness that could fail causing both SST and standard auto to go at once?

If so any help on testing that harness would be great!

Thanks in advance!!

 

[LS4me]

Anyway, I was looking in my repair bills and found something dating way back to when I had a similar problem with the select shift. No codes, just started bouncing off the rev limiter in select shift only. Was a bad harness and a cheap fix. Any possibility there could be like some kind of main harness that could fail causing both SST and standard auto to go at once?

The shifter is nothing more than electronic switch. In SST you WILL bounce off the rev limiter. Lincoln's programming doesn't up-shift when in manual mode; it stays in whatever gear you selected. So, once you hit the rev limiter in whatever gear you selected, you will stay on it until YOU up-shift.

 

[joegr]

The shifter is nothing more than electronic switch. In SST you WILL bounce off the rev limiter. Lincoln's programming doesn't up-shift when in manual mode; it stays in whatever gear you selected. So, once you hit the rev limiter in whatever gear you selected, you will stay on it until YOU up-shift.

So, when you tell it you don't want it to shift for you, it won't shift for you ? Weird...

 

[LS4me]

So, when you tell it you don't want it to shift for you, it won't shift for you ? Weird...

Go figure, huh? Other manufacturers make the up-shift for you and won't let you hold the gear at the limiter.