2000 Lincoln LS V8 Slow Battery Drain.....and I have used the Search Function!

[lbooth77]

Hello

I did not start my LS for about 30 hours and my battery was dead. This happened about 3 weeks ago and thats when I replaced the battery. I used a DMM and got a 14.2 off of the battery while the car was running. I looked at the passenger and driver side battery connections at the firewall and they were both tight. I also DMM'd the fuses. I'm at my wits end. Any suggestions?

I am not the first owner of the car. Maybe this problem has predates my purchase. This is the first time that I have not driven for more than a day since I replaced the battery. It does seem to start like the battery is a little low. I'm Stuck!
Any common problems?

 

[bxstang20000]

You need to do a parasitic draw test to see what device is staying on. That is a pretty large draw to kill the battery in 30 hours. What you need to do is disconnect the negative battery cable then put a wire in between the battery post and cable. Put your DVOM on the AMP scale first start of on the 10A setting then you can go to Milliamp setting. Connect the DVOM in between the post and cable and remove the wire. This will prevent an arc which will blow your meter's fuse which I've done a few times and they are expensive. Now with that connected you need to check the draw and just start pulling fuses until that load goes away then you trace that circuit to find what is staying on causing the car to go dead. Make sure all doors, hood, and trunk are closed. After you connect the meter you need to make sure all the car’s computers go to sleep because they will pull a load until they go into sleep mode. Some cars take up to 30 minutes. A normal draw is no more than 50 Milliamps but this car has a bunch of computers and modules it might be a little bit more.

Have you checked your trunk light? Do you have an aftermarket radio or security system?
Hope this helps

 

[joegr]

Here's the gen II test procedure, sorry I don't have gen I.

Component Tests

Battery — Drain Test

WARNING: Do not attempt this test on a lead-acid battery that has recently been recharged. Explosive gases may cause personal injury. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

CAUTION: To prevent damage to the meter, do not crank the engine or operate accessories that draw more than 10A.

NOTE: No production vehicle should have more than a 50 milliamp (mA) or 0.050 amp draw.

NOTE: Many modules draw 10 mA (0.010 amp) or more continuously.

NOTE: Use an in-line ammeter between the positive battery or negative post and its respective cable.

NOTE: Typically, a drain of approximately 1 amp is attributed to an engine compartment lamp, glove compartment lamp, or interior lamp staying on continually. Other component failures or wiring shorts may be located by selectively pulling fuses to pinpoint the location of the current drain. When the current drain is found, the meter reading falls to an acceptable level. If the drain is still not located after checking all of the fuses, it may be due to the generator.

NOTE: To accurately test the drain on a battery, use an in-line digital ammeter. Use of a test lamp or voltmeter is not an accurate method due to the number of electronic modules.

Check for current drains on the battery in excess of 50 mA (0.050 amp) with all of the electrical accessories off and the vehicle at rest. Current drains are tested with the following procedure:

1. Make sure the junction box/fuse panels are accessible without turning on the interior and underhood lights.

2. Drive the vehicle at least 5 minutes and over 48 km/h (30 mph) to turn on and activate the vehicle systems.

3. Allow the vehicle to sit with the key in the OFF position for at least 40 minutes to allow the modules to time out/power down.

4. Connect a fused (10A) jumper wire between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post to prevent the modules from resetting, and to catch capacitive drains.

5. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery post without breaking the connection of the jumper wire.

6.

NOTE: It is very important that continuity is not broken between the battery and the negative battery cable when connecting the meter. If this happens, the entire procedure must be repeated.
Connect the tester between the negative battery cable and the battery post. The meter must be capable of reading milliamps and should have a 10 amp capability.

7.

NOTE: If the meter settings need to be switched or the test leads need to be moved to another jack, the jumper wire must be reinstalled to avoid breaking continuity.
Remove the jumper wire.

8.

NOTE: Amperage draw varies from vehicle to vehicle depending on the equipment package. Compare to a similar vehicle for reference.

NOTE: No production vehicle should have more than a 50 mA (0.050 amp) draw.
Note the amperage draw.

9. If the draw is found to be excessive, remove the fuses from the CJB 1 at a time and note the current reading. Do not reinstall the fuses until you have finished testing. To properly isolate each of the circuits, all of the fuses may need to be removed and install 1 fuse, note the amperage draw, then remove the fuse and install the next fuse, until all of the circuits are checked. When the current level drops to an acceptable level after removing a fuse, the circuit containing the excessive draw has been located.

10. If the draw is still found to be excessive, remove the fuses from the BJB 1 at a time and note the current reading. Do not reinstall the fuses until you have finished testing. To properly isolate each of the circuits, all of the fuses may need to be removed and install 1 fuse, note the amperage draw, then remove the fuse and install the next fuse, until all of the circuits are checked. When the current level drops to an acceptable level after removing a fuse, the circuit containing the excessive draw has been located.

11. Check the wiring schematic in the wiring diagram for any circuits that run from the battery without passing through the BJB or CJB. Disconnect these circuits if the draw is still excessive.

Battery — Electronic Drains Which Shut Off When the Battery Cable is Disconnected Test

1. Repeat the steps of the battery drain testing.

2. Make sure all the doors are closed and all the accessories are off. Without starting the engine, turn the key to the ON position for a moment, and then OFF. Wait a few minutes for the illuminated entry lamps to turn off, if equipped.

3. Connect the ammeter and read the amperage draw.

The current reading (current drain) should be less than 50 mA (0.050 amp). If the current drain exceeds 50 mA (0.050 amp) after a few minutes, and if this drain did not show in previous tests, the drain is most likely caused by an inoperative electronic component. As in previous tests, remove the fuses from the BJB or CJB 1 at a time to locate the problem circuit.

 

[lbooth77]

Ill try that......Thanks for the help. btw, what is usually the worst case scenario with these types of Drains on the LS

 

[Outkast]

replacing an expensive module

 

[joegr]

replacing an expensive module

Replacing several expensive modules because it is sometimes hard to tell which one is really to blame. For example, you may pull the fuse on module "A" and see the drain go away. You replace module "A", but the problem remains. It turns out the module "A" was failing to go into low current mode because of what module "B" was telling it. Module "B" was really the defective one.

Let's hope it's not that complicated this time.

 

[lbooth77]

I plan on getting started in a few min.(will take a few days) It looks like the only item not getting fused power is the starter.(i.e. everything gets power from one of the 3 fuse boxes except the starter). Is that correct?

 

[lbooth77]

It looks like i'm pulling a 1.1 amp draw after the computers hibernate. pulling the fuses hasn't turned up any answers yet. Could it be a bad pcm? Anyone had this problem before. Thanks.

 

[joegr]

It looks like i'm pulling a 1.1 amp draw after the computers hibernate. pulling the fuses hasn't turned up any answers yet. Could it be a bad pcm? Anyone had this problem before. Thanks.

Pulling the fuses would rule out the PCM.

Assuming that you have really pulled all the fuses and still have a 1 A drain, then it can only be the alternator. The alternator and the starter are the only two things on the whole car that aren't fused. I can't see the starter presenting a 1 A load. It's possible for the alternator to do so if one of the diodes is failing.

Did you really pull all the fuses? If so, then disconnect the red wire to the alternator and see if the drain goes away. (The best place to disconnect it should be either at the alternator or at the starter.)

 

[lbooth77]

I've pulled all but the ones on the passenger side fuse box. I ran out of sunlight! I checked for a failing diode in the alternator by testing the battery while the car was running for any AC voltage. There was no AC voltage. Is that the correct method for checking a failing diode on these models? (It has worked on others). I will try the last fuse box tomorrow.

 

[lbooth77]

BTW, thanks for taking the time to help!

 

[joegr]

I've pulled all but the ones on the passenger side fuse box. I ran out of sunlight! I checked for a failing diode in the alternator by testing the battery while the car was running for any AC voltage. There was no AC voltage. Is that the correct method for checking a failing diode on these models? (It has worked on others). I will try the last fuse box tomorrow.

Normally, I would expect that to work.

 

[lbooth77]

I have an update

So I continued pulling the fuses, and a strange thing began to happen. I pulled a fuse that lowered the amp draw, but when i replaced it, the draw did not return. A few minutes later, i pulled it and the draw still did not return. A few minutes later, I got a current draw again, and pulled the same fuse and the draw only went down slightly.

I was at my wits end, so I called the Lincoln dealer here, and asked him:
1. Was I going crazy and
2. What the hell was going on!?

He told me to bring it to them, they would only charge me for one hour, and they would find the problem. Many hours later, I was just informed that they were speaking to the Ford Tech's to determine what the problem is.

Apparently, there is something that is making the modules turn back on after the hibernation period ends (40 min.) There is something in the car making this happen.

Has anyone ever heard of this problem. I have checked for TSB's, but haven't found anything. Anyone, please help!!!

Thanks again.

 

[joegr]

I have an update

So I continued pulling the fuses, and a strange thing began to happen. I pulled a fuse that lowered the amp draw, but when i replaced it, the draw did not return. A few minutes later, i pulled it and the draw still did not return. A few minutes later, I got a current draw again, and pulled the same fuse and the draw only went down slightly.

I was at my wits end, so I called the Lincoln dealer here, and asked him:
1. Was I going crazy and
2. What the hell was going on!?

He told me to bring it to them, they would only charge me for one hour, and they would find the problem. Many hours later, I was just informed that they were speaking to the Ford Tech's to determine what the problem is.

Apparently, there is something that is making the modules turn back on after the hibernation period ends (40 min.) There is something in the car making this happen.

Has anyone ever heard of this problem. I have checked for TSB's, but haven't found anything. Anyone, please help!!!

Thanks again.

Yes, I have. It's not uncommon. Remember my prior comment about it...
"Replacing several expensive modules because it is sometimes hard to tell which one is really to blame. For example, you may pull the fuse on module "A" and see the drain go away. You replace module "A", but the problem remains. It turns out the module "A" was failing to go into low current mode because of what module "B" was telling it. Module "B" was really the defective one."

 

[lbooth77]

How will I isolate the defective Module? The same testing method for the parasitic leak?

 

[joegr]

How will I isolate the defective Module? The same testing method for the parasitic leak?

No, it's much more complicated. If you don't have inside knowledge (someone from Ford's electrical engineering department), you just about have to replace modules one by one. The dealer's offer to find it for one's hours labor charge is a bargain. I'd stick with that.

 

[lbooth77]

Sounds like what I'll do. Also, I have looked, and have found 2 modules Front and rear electronic modules. Am I missing any. I also saw used ones (eBay). Is there a way to test them before install and programming so I don't get screwed!!!!

 

[joegr]

Sounds like what I'll do. Also, I have looked, and have found 2 modules Front and rear electronic modules. Am I missing any. I also saw used ones (eBay). Is there a way to test them before install and programming so I don't get screwed!!!!

Driver's door module, Instrument cluster module (includes PATS), PCM, SRS module, ABS module, DATC, head-unit, sub-woofer amp (if equipped), center console amp (if equipped), four channel amp (if equipped - gen II only), DVD navigation module (if equipped - gen II only), parking brake module (gen II only).

No way for you to test before installing. DATC sometimes need to be programmed. PCMs always need to be programmed. Instrument clusters always need to be programmed. If you replace too many modules at about the same time, the PATS (inside the cluster) will get upset and have to be reprogrammed. ABS has to be programmed if you have Advanctrac.

 

[lbooth77]

UPDATE:

So, the Dealer told me it was a faulty Driver Door module. But he quoted me a price of $500 for the new unit. I have seen some used ones for around 80-120. Anyone tried any used modules before, and if so, to what success? Thanks.

 

[joegr]

UPDATE:

So, the Dealer told me it was a faulty Driver Door module. But he quoted me a price of $500 for the new unit. I have seen some used ones for around 80-120. Anyone tried any used modules before, and if so, to what success? Thanks.

As long as you get one from the same generation as your car and it is functional, you should be okay. Yours is gen I, so you don't have to worry about not knowing the keypad code, it doesn't have one. You will have to go back to the dealer to get your remotes programmed in, unless you have a scan tool that can do that.

 

[lbooth77]

What would be a good scan tool to do the programming? Would it be economically sensible? What is normally used? Thanks

 

[joegr]

What would be a good scan tool to do the programming? Would it be economically sensible? What is normally used? Thanks

I have Auto Enginuity. About $400. I don't have a gen I, so I don't know if it can program remotes.

 

[lbooth77]

UPDATE.

The driver door module has been changed, and the draw on the battery appears to be gone.(Finally!) However, after the dealer programmed the module, the advance track light on the dash is blinking. It wasn't doing this before and the message center does not give me the "Check AdvanceTrac" message. I read about a TSB that stated :
Service Bulletin Number: 6452
NHTSA Number: 606848
Model Years Affected: 2000
Date of Bulletin: 09/1999
Bulletin Summary: SOME VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT A FLASHING ADVANCE TRAC LAMP INDICATOR AFTER A REPAIR HAS BEEN MADE TO THE INTERACTIVE VEHICLE DYNAMIC (IVD) SYSTEM.

I have two questions,
1. does programming the driver door module and other related modules in the car constitute a repair to the IVD?, and
2. If so, how do these TSB get taken care of?

I would hate to think that after all of this grief (with the door module), I now need a traction control module.

Thanks for any help anyone can provide. This site is a lifesaver!

 

[joegr]

UPDATE.

The driver door module has been changed, and the draw on the battery appears to be gone.(Finally!) However, after the dealer programmed the module, the advance track light on the dash is blinking. It wasn't doing this before and the message center does not give me the "Check AdvanceTrac" message. I read about a TSB that stated :
Service Bulletin Number: 6452
NHTSA Number: 606848
Model Years Affected: 2000
Date of Bulletin: 09/1999
Bulletin Summary: SOME VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT A FLASHING ADVANCE TRAC LAMP INDICATOR AFTER A REPAIR HAS BEEN MADE TO THE INTERACTIVE VEHICLE DYNAMIC (IVD) SYSTEM.

I have two questions,
1. does programming the driver door module and other related modules in the car constitute a repair to the IVD?, and
2. If so, how do these TSB get taken care of?

I would hate to think that after all of this grief (with the door module), I now need a traction control module.

Thanks for any help anyone can provide. This site is a lifesaver!

Programming the DDM does not constitute a repair to the IVD. I suspect that the dealer tech accidentally started the programming/calibration procedure for the steering wheel angle sensor and/or the Lateral Accelerometer/Yaw Rate sensor module. The procedure will have to be restarted and completed.

 

[lbooth77]

Gotcha. Thanks. I suspect you are the Lincoln LS GURU!!!!!
I will relay this info to them. How long does this take? It seems like an hour is pretty standard for these things.