20 dollars paypal for the person who can help with battery drainage

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20BlackLS00

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So i was at work today, spent 4 hours trying to find this. I have a big draw after the car is off. So i pull up mitchell on demand and find stuff bout ssp relays in the car and the FEM and REM (front and Rear electronic module). So im looking at these wire diagrams and follow stuff. The draw goes away if i pull the 40 amp relay in the trunk, as it kills the whole pasanger kick panel fusebox. It shuts down these main fuses 32 35 20 19 18 6 7. So then i go through take all those out and my prob goes away (keep in mind i have replaced the 40 amp relay in the trunk). So turns out fuse number 20 is whats causing the draw. It says intstrument cluster. But going on mitchell it runs other things like the FEM and REM, and sends a signal to the SSPs which, control when power comes on and off, either all of them are on or all off. No one of them can come on by itself. So i plug the fuse number 20 back in the kick panel and the draw continues. It runs the cluster, FEM, REM, Audio control, and something else that i dont remember. So I unplug the FEM and REM next to see if im getting the draw from there, doesnt do anything for the draw but it shuts down many of the featurs up front and for the rear taillights brakes etc, but there is still a draw. My dad is a mechanic(owns his own shop) and i know many things but i really dont want to take this to the Lincoln dealer as they charge 90 dollars an hour to diagnose. One other thing when push in and pull out on the fuse number 20 my cluster moves like its resetting, rpms and speed shoot up, which doesnt seem normal. Im running 2 batts + 250 amp alt and my car is dead within 12-24 hours. If anyone knows what it is or helps me solve this i will send 20 dollars paypal to that person....Please some one, I have so many things i was going to put int the car and cant with this problem, also i cant drive anywhere without pulling a fuse or leaving the batt unhooked. Ive got an idea to bypass it but i would rather fix it then do that.
 
get an amp meter. It will show you what wires are pulling power. get one with a low range, because Im sure the draw is small.
 
20BlackLS00 said:
I have a big draw after the car is off.

So i pull up mitchell on demand and find stuff bout ssp relays in the car and the FEM and REM (front and Rear electronic module). So im looking at these wire diagrams and follow stuff.

The draw goes away if i pull the 40 amp relay in the trunk, as it kills the whole pasanger kick panel fusebox. It shuts down these main fuses 32 35 20 19 18 6 7. So then i go through take all those out and my prob goes away (keep in mind i have replaced the 40 amp relay in the trunk).

So turns out fuse number 20 is whats causing the draw. It says intstrument cluster.

--------------------------------------------------------
But going on mitchell it runs other things like the FEM and REM, and sends a signal to the SSPs which, control when power comes on and off, either all of them are on or all off.

No one of them can come on by itself. So i plug the fuse number 20 back in the kick panel and the draw continues. It runs the cluster, FEM, REM, Audio control, and something else that i dont remember.

So I unplug the FEM and REM next to see if im getting the draw from there, doesnt do anything for the draw but it shuts down many of the featurs up front and for the rear taillights brakes etc, but there is still a draw.

My dad is a mechanic(owns his own shop) and i know many things but i really dont want to take this to the Lincoln dealer as they charge 90 dollars an hour to diagnose.

One other thing when push in and pull out on the fuse number 20 my cluster moves like its resetting, rpms and speed shoot up, which doesnt seem normal.

Im running 2 batts + 250 amp alt and my car is dead within 12-24 hours. If anyone knows what it is or helps me solve this i will send 20 dollars paypal to that person....

Please some one, I have so many things i was going to put int the car and cant with this problem, also i cant drive anywhere without pulling a fuse or leaving the batt unhooked.

Ive got an idea to bypass it but i would rather fix it then do that.
Click to expand...

fixed............
 
its a decent sized draw to kill 2 batterys 1 being 1100 and the other a 750 in about a half a day would have to say its about 4.5-5 amps. Ill throw a dmm on it to find out, i just dont know what could be causing this i went through this whole thing and now get to do it again tommorow...
 
hell no i havent gotten the humor yet??? lol, this is such a frustrating problem, and nope lol im not sending 20 bucks for someone sayin fixed if that was the humor lol
 
Make it 40 dollars now for the person who helps me solve this

lmao, i just typed it as quick as i could so i remembered everything i did. No one knows by the way, someone has had to have had a similar problem. Lets make it 40 dollars paypal for the person that gives me the info that leads me to fixing the problem...
 
this is what i would do, disconnect anything and by all means anything newly added to your car, any after market equipment, is your isolator in good working condition? to run your second battery you have an isolator? im assuming that is a yes, what is hooked up right now to the second battery? if anything disconnect it, if your problem stops once you disconnect anything after market stuff start putting them back one by one, post up info on these questions to further diagnose.
 
You say the fuse you pulled was for the instrument cluster? Why not unplug the cluster and see if it stops?
You also mentioned audio control... do you have an aftermarket head unit installed?
I had a problem in my cadillac, where after removing the factory deck the amp for the factory speakers would not turn off for some reason. It would kill the battery in one night.
 
As of 2 weeks ago nothing aftermarket has been hooked up not even the stereo is in three let alone the messege center and climate control is unplugged. Only thing is the hid's, and they arent causing it. The fuse for the instrument cluster does not only control that looking at the wire patterns, it controls much more. The fuse box says that but its wrong.

It controls like 5 things, just like the 1 relay in the back controling whole front fuse box. Im probablygonna go ahead and wire fuse number 20 to the ignition so it comes on with the key and then no more problems, hopefully ill see if it dies tonight with the fuse pulled. Im leaving it that way, if it does then im doing that. Im not taking it to the dealer...
 
The IP needles will move thru their range when the IP gets no power. Its normal.

Did ya check your alternator's current leakage?
(I've used to work at HUMVEE alternator manufacturer and they had current leakage)
 
mine had a draw forever and when i finally had it fixed at my ford dealer it turned out to be my cd player. They straight wired it, now it starts over at cd1 track1 every time I start the car, but it's better than a dead battery all the time and it only cost me a case of beer. it's been about a year now and everythings fine. i dought that's whats wrong with yours but try pulling the fuse or something.
 
20BlackLS00 said:
As of 2 weeks ago nothing aftermarket has been hooked up not even the stereo is in three let alone the messege center and climate control is unplugged. Only thing is the hid's, and they arent causing it. The fuse for the instrument cluster does not only control that looking at the wire patterns, it controls much more. The fuse box says that but its wrong.
Click to expand...

Did you have the draw problem before everything was pulled apart, or do you just have the message center and climate control disconnected for testing? The LS uses a lot of reverse logic in the electronics - instead of turning things on by connecting +12v, it turns them off by connecting to ground.
 
this has been an ongoing problem wether i had a stereo or anything in it or not, but its just been getting worse. I think the problem is that the ssp relays are stayin hot, they stay in what lincoln calls the "awake" modea nd dont shut down. If i do pull the fuse #20 after about 45 mins which is what it should take according to mitchell on demand, the relays go out. But if i keep everything in the relays stay hot... Im getting more confused as it goes on but im gonna try and wire it to the ignition so that whenthe ignition comes on it comes on.

As long as i can wire the one fuse to it ill be good and wont have a problem. So on monday when i go back towork im gonna try that. becasue wit fuse #20 pulled it says instrument cluster, but the car wont start without it, so i went and pulled wire diagrams. It runs 5 things just not the cluster.
 
Something I have noticed in my LS since I got another daily driver and LS is not driven daily.
The factory alarm will drain my battery in about a week when I don't drive the LS for that long.
Did you try not arming the alarm but just locking the doors?
(using remote or power door lock button to lock the LS will arm the alarm)
 
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