1997 Mark VIII LSC Blk/Blk: Finally here.

Ok first Luige has no access to the internet right now so he cant get on and he does have the best kit. He is currently having the boxes on the kits redone due to some pos punk kid in cali who got in an accident and told the state where he got his non road legal hid's from so he is dealing with that he has never hidden the fact the 10000 watts are not legal and put it on the instructions and the receipt but the state of California apparently does not care so when its all sorted he will be back in business.

ok the miss seems to be cleared up the sensor for the coolant should be on the coolant bottle somewhere not in the radiator and the first thing i would do is check the brake calipers for the pull make sure they are lubed and moving freely if they dont apply together it will pull and braking can also bring out an alignment issue cause of all the weight transferring to the front
 
oh and love the car im sorta partial to black on black gen 2's wont ever sell mine lol
 
So, I got my codes read and found out it was missing on cyl's 2 and 8, swapped out the coils and it purrs like a kitten. :) No CEL, either.

Now, the only thing to track down is the Check Air Ride message...
 
You say that like you think I have any idea how this thing works. :D

XLRVIII mentioned it might have something to do with the... Crap. I can't remember. :)

The compressor kicks in when I turn it on, the message does not come on till I am driving a ways. He was saying something about when it lowers itself at highway speed.

When I get out and shut the door, how quickly will it lower to the parked position? If that is what you are talking about with "venting" maybe its not doing that. How much lower will it be, anyway? I haven't noticed a real difference.
 
So when you park and close your door do you hear a pshhhhhhh and see the car lower?

If that doesn't happen it isn't venting. The only solution then is to replace the compressor OR buy a spider valve.
 
a external vent solenoid for the air system. the stock system, you wont be able to hear it vent. after you shut off the car get out, lean against the 1/4 panel (rivetless jeans) and shut the door, if you dont feel the car drop a inch or 2 in the first min or so, it isnt venting. or the way i diagnosed mine is even easier, i just flip the ray's switch :D my vent on my spider valve was clogged :D
 
Well, I don't think it is venting, whats the first step? I am guessing that valve is way cheaper than the compressor...
 
nobody_special said:
Well, I don't think it is venting, whats the first step? I am guessing that valve is way cheaper than the compressor...
Click to expand...

HA...
nah the spider valve cost AS MUCH as a compressor.
but it's well worth the money..

The factory vent solenoid is "non serviceable" dont even try.

Do like I said, Turn off the air ride and drive the car for a couple of days.. or even a week.. or until one or the other end of the car falls/slams.

That will tell you if you have a leaking bag, if not..then your check air ride message is 99% gonna be a clogged vent solenoid.
 
If it's not venting your a$$ end will be 2 feet in the air & ride like it's on cinderblocks. You may not be able to hear it venting but you should hear a mechanical clicking noise after you shut your door.
 
cadillackman said:
If it's not venting your a$$ end will be 2 feet in the air & ride like it's on cinderblocks.
Click to expand...

not always true..
if the height sensors are doing their job the car "wont jack its A$$" 2 feet in the air.
That requires a bad air ride computer or a bad/misadjusted height sensor.

my 95 that had a clogged/rusted vent solenoid NEVER got over normal ride height..
The vent just doesnt have that ability...
 
nobody_special said:
Yep, I shut it off yesterday and will see what happens.
Click to expand...

If it doesnt leak down over the next few days, then you've more than likely got the "clogged/corroded/rusted shut vent soleniod.

This is actually the "preferred" type of failure.

It could be WORSE, your solenoid could be leaking, which would mean putting a spider valve on the car is not an option, because the compressor uses the vent solenoid to SEAL the compressor.. if the vent LEAKS.. the compressor cant pump the car up.

SO.. PRAY it IS a clogged/rusted shut vent solenoid over the other possibilities.
 
Its riding at what looks like normal ride height. XLRVIII, I checked liked you said about when the air ride message came on, and it wasn't when I hit sixty. I was doing an... um... acceleration test... and I was over 60 for about two miles on the highway before it came on.

Yesterday, I checked for the "clicking" and heard it in the back one time, but not the front. then I took it for a drive, came back and didn't hear it at all. but it could have been lost in the exhaust cooling and ticking after I shut it off.
 
nobody_special said:
. I was doing an... um... acceleration test... and I was over 60 for about two miles on the highway before it came on.
.
Click to expand...

well AT 60 the car TRIES to lower itself.

It might have been 2 minutes down the road before the system "gave up" and Error'd out.

I'm still leaning towards a vent solenoid..nothing anyone has said shows evidence of otherwise.

when you park the car, it should vent the front first, then the rear.
The front falls alot faster than the rear due to the engine weight.

When you get out and close the door, put your hand on the top of the wheel and see if you can perceive any movement in the downward direction.

if this isn't the vent solenoid you MIGHT have a front bag solenoid that isn't functioning.. but USUALLY that will trip and INSTANT air ride error when you first start up the car, when the system performs it's "self test".

Air ride problems are sometimes tricky to pinpoint.
 
coils are heavier than bags..you'd be adding weight.

now some of the faster cars ARE on coils, but that's not what's making them fast.
two equally modded cars 1 with coils and 1 with bags the bag car is probably gonna be faster, due to less weight.
ALSO.. the air bags are alot more conducive to traction, because they are soft and forgiving and absorb alot of the drivetrain shock that coils dont.
 
I wasn't planning on switching, I was just curious. :)

Although, if I start getting into a huge repair bill for the air suspension, I might consider it, on a pure reliability standpoint.
 
mine takes about 12 hours if i leave it be it lays yhe back end on the ground it may take a little longer but even a small air leak should be showing some sign in that amount of time try driving it around the block and repark it that may help the leak show itself if it has one if i park mine on the hill to the shop it slams in about 4 hours so how you park it can effect it too
 
Its parked flat in the shop. I guess i could drive it 8 miles to town and drive it around the block. How about a section? can I drive it around the section line? :D
 
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