1969 Mustang Mach 1

TDUB

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Ok, first of all let me say that I've been holding off posting this thread because the car is under wraps for the winter, and therefore I have no way to post a picture of it. Anyways, my dad has finally given me his 1969 Mustang Mach 1. He has had this car since 1991 but has yet to do really anything with it, and since I've always had more interest in it than him he has finally just decided to give it to me. It is currently unrestored, but most of the body work is done, I have a lot of the parts for it, the car runs and the engine and transmission are original. It has a 2V 351 Cleveland mated to an FMX transmission. Now, if you know a bit about Mustangs you know that Ford didn't officially put the Cleveland in the Machs until 1970, but there are very few late model 69s with the Cleveland instead of the Windsor. My question to you guys is, what direction should I go with the restoration? I was thinking I would keep the original trans and engine but build them up, upgrade the suspension, rear end, and go with disc brakes and possibly power steering but keep the interior all original and exterior all original. I'm looking for ideas here so feel free to chime in.
 

kustomizingkid

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If it were my car I would put a 4r70w in it with a stand alone controller...

The lock up ability is worth it alone...
 

Nitemare77

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Loot is the question. How much do you want to spend? Body condition is #1. Where is the rust? Trunk doors fuel tank, the list is endless. Make a car like that solid from the base up. Then if you have the time and or cash you could have a upper 5 figure to 100k+ car.
 

TDUB

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I plan to do a complete rotisserie nut and bolt restoration, I figure if I'm going to do it I might as well do it right, even if it costs more and takes longer. My dad has had a lot of the body parts replaced, and has given me the receipts for everything he has already bought or has had done.
 

Lux

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Ford Mustang II front suspension, rear disc brakes with a ford 9"and coil overs, mini tubbed, mark viii 32v superchaged drivetrain :D
 

ford nut

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It all depends on what you want to do with the car.
Think out what your going to do with it, what do you want out of it.
Street/Strip ?

If it was me I would dump the FMX its a POS.
Stick with the Cleveland but dump the 2v heads.
Find some clutch pedals and convert to a manual trans.
I am old school so I would go with a toploader trans.
9 inch rear with a deep gear.
Then beat the snot out of it on weekends.
 

Roadboss

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Here is a couple of old pictures of rides I put together. The Boss was a total restore. Your budget will guide you.

Boss 302.jpg


File0002.jpg
 

richduty455

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if you want to keep it original but up the 351 and keep it "stock" appearing if not go with a big block, maybe make it into a 428 cobra jet car? put in a c6 trans and a set of 430 gears and have fun with it!
 

Quik LS

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a "complete rotisserie nut and bolt restoration" is not worth the money unless you are returning the car to factory specs, using the correct paints, overspary patterns, ...all the pieces. Then you end up with a big bill, a car you can't drive and only something to sell. Very few people have the tools, knowledge or money to do a complete rotisserie restore that is worth the effort. If you are heading to Barret-Jackson with this as an investment to sell - then you will likely need to find a shop that does this type of restore.

But - restoring it to a good looking car, reliable, fun and something that can be driven is a 1/3 the price - and you end up with a car that you can drive and work on. And you can do most of this type of work yourself, in your own garage.
 

kustomizingkid

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If you want a concourse resto done I no one of the best in the business... I can PM you his number. He charges $85 and hour, and it takes as many hours as it take :D
 

Roadboss

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I would definitely get your self deep into the rust havens and replace all metal there abouts that even has a hint of rust (trunk wells, floors, rocker boxes, wheel wells, doors etc). That usually means a total stripping of the car (big project and money). I personally would tie the sub-frames together as well if you are going to put any type of performance combo in it larger that a stock 289, not to mention heavier duty suspension components and brakes. Out side of doing a big block (based on a 460 C-6 combo) I would also look at some of the other alternative small block automatic combo's that you can put together with the Modular motors which are easier to tune and produce great horsepower. See this site for some ideas.

http://www.karkraft.com/new_page_2.htm
 

jhargarage

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Barrett Jackson last week end had several mustangs like yours go for $110-$170,000. It would be hard for me not to go for a total factory spec. restoration.
 

Roadboss

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They have to be the real deal, which my Boss was. It was sold to a collector who put it away. That was fine with me because after it was all said and done I was panic with the car any place I went with it. The sight of a mom and stroller and a little kid running around touchimg things was terrifying, never mind road debris etc just driving it. I vowed never again would I do that again. I want a driver.

By the way, the Boss ran for crap in traffic due to the camming so it was always loading up. Just part of the new technologies that make our new modular engines a bit more driver friendly. My Mark Vlll is way more fun to drive although I will admit it lacks only a little in the wow factor.
 

rubberducky700

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If you remember anything from this thread whether you want to keep the car or not. REPAIR OR REPLACE ALL RUSTED AREA'S NO MATTER WHAT. you will thank yourslef in the end if you dont cover it up and do it right. on this car, it deserves it. Trash the fmx, get a built c-4 or c-6 if you want an auto otherwise 5 speed it. Lots of fun and still drivable. any more stang questions PM me, I have one of my own and have built a couple more.
 

ford nut

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They have to be the real deal, which my Boss was. It was sold to a collector who put it away. That was fine with me because after it was all said and done I was panic with the car any place I went with it. The sight of a mom and stroller and a little kid running around touchimg things was terrifying, never mind road debris etc just driving it. I vowed never again would I do that again. I want a driver.

By the way, the Boss ran for crap in traffic due to the camming so it was always loading up. Just part of the new technologies that make our new modular engines a bit more driver friendly. My Mark Vlll is way more fun to drive although I will admit it lacks only a little in the wow factor.

I was wondering what you did with the car when you were done.
It must have been fun to restore it but hard to let it go.

Its hard to enjoy a car when you scared to death anytime you park it.

I have a couple of old hotrods my dad restored and left behind.

I cant take my eyes off of them when I park them.
 

TDUB

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To tell you the truth I really don't think this car would bring the money auction to make it worth the cash put it into it, and that is even if I were to sell it as I'm sure it wouldn't go over to well with my dad since he's had her so long. Mach 1s can bring alot of money at auction but usually it's the 428s that do. The only reason I can see that mine would is the fact that there are VERY few 69 Machs with an original 351 Cleveland in them, but at the same time its a 2V with an open differential and an fmx auto so I highly doubt that it would bring more than 35,000 at auction and that's if she was put back to pristine condition.
 

rubberducky700

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you never spend lots planing to make it back on cars, Its not the way it works. you spend what you want want to spend to keep it. you nickel dime it to sell it. no body wants some body elses dream. In most cases
 

rustyrodder

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doesnt sound like anything extremely rare...

but what i would do is pull the original engine/trans, stick it in storage. then if you ever want a stock resto, its easier to do.

then I'd build up a nice 351/AOD combo, make it a damn nice cruiser. with the normal brakes and suspension updates, of course!
 

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