1537 intake problem still here

I

ice man

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im feed up i had a bad vac hose change that and still run the same any help before i take it to the dealer:mad:
 
The number's the code..

And, you will probably get better help than you'll get at any ford dealer if you explain a bit further and use some punctuation so it's easier to help you diagnose the problem. People here probably know the answers to your problem but don't want to spend the effort it'll take to understand what you're saying.

For example, you've obviously looked up the code. Does the code narrow down the problem to that ONE vac hose? Or could it be a different one? Which vac hose is it? What all have you tried besides replacing the hose, anything?
 
1537 it says stuck intake runner and speed idle senser bad the car runs bad and rich 1996 the dealer says it might have take the intake off to get to 1 senser $700-900 to fix any suggestions
 
the vac hose whent from a square box with a elec plug in and it and a round top box mounts just above the driver side ignitionwire cover but i fixed it no change
 
Thanks, I'm not familiar with that problem but someone should be.. it may take a couple hours or a day before someone familiar with the problem gets back on the board, but I'd say wait for more responses before taking it to the dealer.. For 7-900 dollars I'm sure you'll find some patience :p

Good luck..
 
intake problem

P1537 intake manifold runner stuck open bank 1, probably a very gunked up IMRC or bad cable or control box. Should not be running rich? any other codes??
 
First thing to do, is physically check both imrc's manually. Make sure they move. Next, with the engine running, check and make sure both controls operate with vacuum. You can do this by removing the solenoid's connector. The controls should extend, thereby opening the butterflies. You can do this several times to confirm each control is operating. IF they both operate, then you have a bad sensor. They are very expensive. Check with some salvage yards in your area, and see if they will part them off the engine. Note:1537 should apply to bank 1 control, which is the passenger side unit. Just as a warning, I had the same code. It turned out to be the Drivers side unit. I destroyed a perfectly good bank 1 control unit. But I eventually used the sensor and cup, to confirm that the drivers side was the bad unit.

You don't have to remove the intake to replace the control. Remove the throttle body (4 bolts), and then remove the idle air control valve. You should be able to remove it with no problem, when the t/b is off. Then you can remove the control units 2 bolts. Be advised, that you have to pop the little L shaped rod out of the retainer. This is a little square shaped plastic piece that fits into the imrc's runner arm. The connector for the passenger side control is an absolute bitch. It is located on the back of the drivers side head, below one other connector. I went from above and below to get it off.
 
how do you check the imrc's by physically moving the throttle body butterfly? or do you have to take off the TB/intake manifold to check them?
 
IMRC's

Is the vehicle an early or late model 96? early models had vacuum IMRC late had computer controlled.
As for checking to see if they open or close, just reach down its tight fit and see if they move.
 
I'm talking about the IMRC butterflies, not the t/b. With they engine off, you get your fingers down there and move the arm. It will be somewhat difficult, because they are under spring tension. IF they spring back when you release, then they are not stuck open.
 
Tiltedhalo said:
Is the vehicle an early or late model 96? early models had vacuum IMRC late had computer controlled.
As for checking to see if they open or close, just reach down its tight fit and see if they move.
Click to expand...

I do not believe that this is a correct statment. I have a June built vehicle, and it has vacuum operated control units. The california models may be different, but all of my 96 ford manuals do not reflect an electronically controlled/ cable operated IMRC system on the 96 vehicles.
 
thanks you all this is my first mark 8 im a truck driver and thats why im not on line everyday but i read what to do but what does it look like when i look un der the hood im like damn n ever delt with this kind of motor by the way i do have msd coils and wires and 764s 3rd cat delet and flos can you you provide a pic of what i should be looking at
 
2 tiny levers levers up against the firewall at the bottom of the intake/top of the head, theres gotta be a pic somewhere.........
NINJA EDIT!!!!!!!!!!! ok first up is the rear view of a gen 1 mark eng from project thundermark, and every pic i got is either too far away and that big wire loom is in the way, so im also throwing up a pic of mlschultz's eng, now his is a cobra intake that uses electric imrc's, so do gen2's and i think you got a gen1 but it gives you an idea where the levers are at. they should move over 3k

erics new eng 45.jpg


mlschultz cobra imrc pic.JPG
 
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not my rims, just borrowed from thundermark, 18" speedstar replicas the owner purchased from user name "baggedtaco" the car is sensor lowered 1.5" and its also fully vented via "rays switch" in that pic
 
thanks im on my way out to see what i can find out you guys our the greatest this hopefully will tell me what i need to know and need to buy
 
call max at 5 star ford, lvc discounts,side banner up towards the top. i dont know if they are available but worth a shot
 
I bought 2, a few months ago from max. They were a little over 271 a piece before shipping.
 
chickenviii said:
2 tiny levers levers up against the firewall at the bottom of the intake/top of the head, theres gotta be a pic somewhere.........
NINJA EDIT!!!!!!!!!!! ok first up is the rear view of a gen 1 mark eng from project thundermark, and every pic i got is either too far away and that big wire loom is in the way, so im also throwing up a pic of mlschultz's eng, now his is a cobra intake that uses electric imrc's, so do gen2's and i think you got a gen1 but it gives you an idea where the levers are at. they should move over 3k
Click to expand...


my drivers side is stuck open aswell, so would that meen i'd have to press the lever down?
 
worth a shot, also seafoam the hell out of it, try to rev it up and down right around the 3k range cuz thats when the imrc's move
 
i allready tried it and drove the snot out of it and nearly killed the people behind me. The biggest cloud of smoke i've ever seen! Cars were pulling over to the side of the road cuase they couldnt see in front of them. Funny cuase i usually just add it and rev it up and got very little smoke. I know what to do now :) I'll try it again this weekend.
 
but if you just let it idle while you were adding the seafoam only went down the 1 runner and didnt contact the imrc plates at all
 
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