05 LS overhearing

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stryker59101

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A few years back like 4 years all the plastic parts were replaced including radiator. I started having an overheat condition again. So I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and put a new DCCV. This started because I couldn't get any heat. I tried to bleed the system now twice. Temp gets hot so then I pulled off the cap of the degas bottle and can watch the coolant level rise and then go back down it doesn't have the pressure it would normally and then sometimes let a little bit out of the bleeder hose. Any idea what I could be missing or doing wrong?
 
stryker59101 said:
A few years back like 4 years all the plastic parts were replaced including radiator. I started having an overheat condition again. So I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and put a new DCCV. This started because I couldn't get any heat. I tried to bleed the system now twice. Temp gets hot so then I pulled off the cap of the degas bottle and can watch the coolant level rise and then go back down it doesn't have the pressure it would normally and then sometimes let a little bit out of the bleeder hose. Any idea what I could be missing or doing wrong?
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  1. Remove the engine fill cap.
  • s6x~us~en~file=a0060236.gif~gen~ref.gif
  1. Open the heater air bleed.
  • s6x~us~en~file=a0004560.gif~gen~ref.gif
  1. Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added.
  1. Install the degas bottle cap.
s6x~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif
CAUTION: Care must be taken to make sure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine coolant.

  1. Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open.
  1. Install the engine fill cap.
    • Install the engine fill cap until contact is made and then tighten an additional 45 degrees (1/8 turn).
  • s6x~us~en~file=a0060236.gif~gen~ref.gif
  1. NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.
    Start the engine and turn the heater to the defrost (90°F) position.
  1. Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant escapes during engine idle.
  • s6x~us~en~file=a0004560.gif~gen~ref.gif
  1. Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark.
  1. Reopen the heater air bleed to release any trapped air and close again.
  • s6x~us~en~file=a0004560.gif~gen~ref.gif
  1. Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.
  1. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
  1. Set the heater temperature setting to 24°C (75°F) and allow the vehicle to idle for 2 minutes.
  1. Shut the engine off and allow to cool.
  1. After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark.
 
stryker59101 said:
A few years back like 4 years all the plastic parts were replaced including radiator. I started having an overheat condition again. So I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and put a new DCCV. This started because I couldn't get any heat. I tried to bleed the system now twice. Temp gets hot so then I pulled off the cap of the degas bottle and can watch the coolant level rise and then go back down it doesn't have the pressure it would normally and then sometimes let a little bit out of the bleeder hose. Any idea what I could be missing or doing wrong?
Click to expand...
You have to do it perfectly by the book and I suggest if you can't get it bled by the procedure you should have a Snap-On diagnostics system bleed it at a shop that has it
 
Pour the coolant in super slow otherwise you'll get even more air in the cooling system
 
I will try again. I had the car running for 30 mins trying to get it tonight and even got the car facing downhill. Still had no heat and it was overheating. Had to shut it down. Got too dark and cold out
 
stryker59101 said:
Uh yeah no luck still running hot. It sure is a stubborn woman.
Click to expand...
You're running the rpm's at 2000 for 5 minutes? The other option is to call around to different mechanic shops and find one that has a Snap-On bleeder machine, after replacing every coolant part on my 2002 V8 LSE I had to have a Ford Quick Lane shop bleed it with the Snap-On bleeder machine I had the bluetooth scanner hooked up to Forscan light on my smartphone the whole time so I could watch the Coolant Temperature real time, the shop found it quite amusing but wanted to see it getting bled
 
Well after doing the DCCV, thermostat and housing, new water pump, and now a degas bottle and new bleeder hose with screw I got it to run without overheating but then I shut things down had dinner and came back out to watch it start kicking up into the 230s but if I get on the gas it will rapidly start falling in temp and shut the fan off of high speed, which it wasn't doing previously. On my scanner it falls to 212-215 degrees then stays there for a bit then starts to climb. I think maybe tomorrow I will try to bleed more.
 
Actually it should bleed itself if you keep the bottle full and do a few cold hot cycles. Make sure you open the heater, while driving. Even if you dont bleed it fully filling the bottle and the radiator should be enough. The leftover air in the system should fully move to the bottle after one or two cold/hot cycles.
 
Last edited:
gips said:
Actually it should bleed itself if you keep the bottle full and do a few cold hot cycles. Make sure you open the heater, while driving. Even if you dont bleed it fully filling the bottle and the radiator should be enough. The leftover air in the system should fully move to the bottle after one or two cold/hot cycles.
Click to expand...
That's what I was wondering. I will fill up the degas bottle on my way to work and monitor and see how it does.
 
She held creeped up to 222 for a minute then went back down to 215-217. I guess I will take it. Well and the engineer of the cooling systems address so I can kick him square in the nuts.
 
Well everything was going good but got home from work and coolant was coming out from behind the thermostat. I guess probably from reusing the old gasket or the motorrad thermostat is crap and doesn't line up good. I skipped doing a new gasket since they were out of stock. Woops I got one tonight and will put it on tomorrow. Since my degas bottle was the culprit I wonder if I shouldn't just throw my motorcraft one back on.
 
I got a new gasket I will throw it on tomorrow. I knew better than to reuse old gasket. I was in a hurry from frustration but changing the degas bottle definitely helped.. I know the old one was bad was not pressuring up and there was a leak on the driver's side.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Usually you will see the cracks in the degas bottle. If none, you should be able to use it.

Also... sometimes the degas cap goes bad. I have replaced more caps, than bottles.
Click to expand...
I thought he was talking about the thermostat / crossover assembly?
 
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