'04 v8 p0108

Do you have a magnetic pick up tool? If so, you should be able to extract it.
 
Then why am I still getting the BAP code after replacing the EGR? All of the lines going into the EGR are intact and the car isn't suffering from an obvious vacuum leak.

Maybe you have a non-obvious vacuum leak?
 
Gonna try but I can't even see it anymore. It's inside the pulley. My honest opinion that pulleys should all be solid and not hollow on one side... One of these days I'll learn to quit trying to fix my own car. :p
 
Gonna try but I can't even see it anymore. It's inside the pulley. My honest opinion that pulleys should all be solid and not hollow on one side... One of these days I'll learn to quit trying to fix my own car. :p

I drop stuff like that more than I care to admit. Get some magnetic probes/pick-ups. You don't won't the pulley to sling it out and do damage when you start it up. In the worst case, remove the pulley (I assume you are talking about the water pump pulley, it's easy to remove).
 
Whew. Had to go get a flexible magnetic tool but I got it. Now just waiting with batt unplugged and hoping. :D

So Joe, in case this doesn't fix it and I also have a bad vacuum line somewhere, is there a chart or diagram to show where the lines run, or even just some pics of the most likely culprits? Are there any ways to test the lines for leaks or would I have to take it somewhere?
 
So apparently the issue I was having with P0108 was my own dumb fault for not clearing the code after I installed the new EGR valve. P0193 was from me partially breaking off the nipple on the fuel rail pressure sensor. Dumb.
 
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I pulled up the same code (P0108) on Saturday. I have done some searching here and a general search on google and it seems that the fix for this is replacing the EGR valve? Correct me if I am wrong with that. I plan on checking the vacuum lines when I get home tonight and cleaning the MAF later on when I get a little more time. Before this code came up, I noticed about a 1-2 MPG drop and a slight loss of power during accelleration, however I also have had an off-and-on check engine light for a few months that pulls the code P0430 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2) so I chalked it up as that. How difficult of a job is EGR valve replacement on this car? Can it be done in an apartment parking lot with a basic mechanics tool kit? It appears to be easy to access but I just want to make sure that I dont bite off more than I can chew before starting. Any help is greatly appreciated
 
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I pulled up the same code (P0108) on Saturday. I have done some searching here and a general search on google and it seems that the fix for this is replacing the EGR valve? Correct me if I am wrong with that. I plan on checking the vacuum lines when I get home tonight and cleaning the MAF later on when I get a little more time. Before this code came up, I noticed about a 1-2 MPG drop and a slight loss of power during accelleration, however I also have had an off-and-on check engine light for a few months that pulls the code P0430 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2) so I chalked it up as that. How difficult of a job is EGR valve replacement on this car? Can it be done in an apartment parking lot with a basic mechanics tool kit? It appears to be easy to access but I just want to make sure that I dont bite off more than I can chew before starting. Any help is greatly appreciated

Forgot this:

I have a 2004 v8
 
The EGR valve assembly is easy to change on the gen II V8.
It could also be wiring or many a vacuum line leak. Take care not to damage the fuel pressure sensor while removing the EGR valve.
 
Replacing the EGR valve is the easy part. Like joegr said, be careful not to crack the fuel rail pressure sensor. Also take care not to break any of the vacuum lines going into the EGR or the PCV hose which runs very close to the EGR valve.
 
Thanks guys, I will check the vacuum lines and wiring when I get back to my car tonight. I assume that Motorcraft is going to be the way to go. Has anyone ordered this off rockauto and did it come with a gasket or should I buy that seperate?
 
Thanks guys, I will check the vacuum lines and wiring when I get back to my car tonight. I assume that Motorcraft is going to be the way to go. Has anyone ordered this off rockauto and did it come with a gasket or should I buy that seperate?

Actually, the EGR valve assembly is expensive, and normally doesn't fail. I'd very strongly consider e-bay or a local junkyard for this part.
 
Actually, the EGR valve assembly is expensive, and normally doesn't fail. I'd very strongly consider e-bay or a local junkyard for this part.

I will look there as well. The motorcraft EGR is $92.99 at rockauto unless I am looking at the wrong part, which isnt too bad, but I will look at some junkyards too. Thanks for the tip
 
I will look there as well. The motorcraft EGR is $92.99 at rockauto unless I am looking at the wrong part, which isnt too bad, but I will look at some junkyards too. Thanks for the tip

You're right. The last time I looked for a similar Ford EGR assembly it was $250 discounted new. I consider around $100 a fair price.
 
You're right. The last time I looked for a similar Ford EGR assembly it was $250 discounted new. I consider around $100 a fair price.

Good because I can not find any junkyards around here that have any Gen 2 LS's in their inventory (at least listed online) and ebay wasn't priced as well as rockauto either.
 
revive this a bit again. any type of leak on these cars are very elusive. for a vacuum leak use a can of carbeurator cleaner and spray all your lines down while the car's running. if you have even a slight change in rpm then you have found where your leak is or where your leak is getting bigger
 
Having the po0108 code on my ls the month I need inspection. Need to get this thing through the state. Car runs great and I have checked all the vacuum lines and can't find anything. I have not replaced the egr valve but I did run the car with a bad cat for a while. Not sure if one would have anything to do with the other. I sprayed all the vacuum lines and can't find any leaks. Not sure what else to do. Code clears and comes right back on during 2nd start up with out even moving the car.
 

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