01 LS Coolant Parts Replacement advice please!!

hey Dale, when you get all of the parts for the Degas bottle, can you list all of the part numbers. I will eventually need to replace my bottle as well and last I checked the Motorcraft bottle with the hoses was over $180.

Correct me if I am wrong but the Degas bottle has two hoses attached? The bleed hose (callout 8C289B, XW4Z-8C289-CA) and the return hose (8C289C, XW4Z-8C289-FA)? Ford Parts Giant list both hoses as discontinued?

I just wanted to make sure I order the correct hoses, 2002 LS V8, Automatic, non-sport.

I guess I will need to get a new cap (RS527) for the degas bottle too.

Here is a link to another thread I made for Gen 1 Coolant parts this will give you most of the part numbers for the coolant parts GenI LSV8 Cooling System Overhaul Parts List

If you can't find the part on Ford Parts Giants take a look on amazon and also eBay just make sure it's OEM and that the seller has good feedback if going the eBay route.

And also if you have not changed out any of the other coolant parts I would Highly advise it. I saw the old parts that came off my car and was all in very very bad shape. It was all likely never changed before which is kinda shocking on a LS. The only thing I know that had been done for sure before was the coolant degas bottle as per the CarFax. But I am pretty sure that other stuff looked as if never had been changed.
 
Here is a link to another thread I made for Gen 1 Coolant parts this will give you most of the part numbers for the coolant parts GenI LSV8 Cooling System Overhaul Parts List

If you can't find the part on Ford Parts Giants take a look on amazon and also eBay just make sure it's OEM and that the seller has good feedback if going the eBay route.

And also if you have not changed out any of the other coolant parts I would Highly advise it. I saw the old parts that came off my car and was all in very very bad shape. It was all likely never changed before which is kinda shocking on a LS. The only thing I know that had been done for sure before was the coolant degas bottle as per the CarFax. But I am pretty sure that other stuff looked as if never had been changed.

yes, plan on replacing everything all at once, but I am a little confused about this part "Motorcraft KM4566 Water Outlet Housing," that goes to the cooling fan right, why include it as part of replacing the cooling system components?

No sure why these are included either "Exhaust Manifold Gaskets XW4Z-9448-AC."
 
Last edited:
yes, plan on replacing everything all at once, but I am a little confused about this part "Motorcraft KM4566 Water Outlet Housing," that goes to the cooling fan right, why include it as part of replacing the cooling system components?
I might be wrong but pretty sure that did not go to the coolant fan. https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-K...ywords=Motorcraft+KM4566+Water+Outlet+Housing

KM-4566 - Genuine Ford Base No. #KM-4566 Hose - Sub Tank

I replaced all the hoses they wear ! Pressurized systems and old hoses don't go good together if you don't want any leaks or air pulling into the system. I mean if Metal managed to crack what will happen to the plastic and old rubber hoses?
1.jpg
 
..."Motorcraft KM4566 Water Outlet Housing," that goes to the cooling fan right..."

No, it does not. It's a hose to the degas bottle.


...No sure why these are included either "Exhaust Manifold Gaskets XW4Z-9448-AC."

Because the old ones will probably leak if you reuse them after taking the intake manifold off and putting it back on. I think that on gen I if you have the correct wrench, you can do it without removing the intake manifold.
 
KM-4566 = YW4Z-8C633-AA

NEW OEM HYDRAULIC FAN SYSTEM SUB TANK HOSE 2000-02 LINCOLN LS 02-05 THUNDERBIRD | eBay

Then I find this: Engine Coolant Recovery Tank Hose MOTORCRAFT KM-4566 | eBay

Same hose? Different application? Or Ebay Tasca wrong somehow?

Just trying to figure this out, getting somewhat confusing.
 
Last edited:
No, it does not. It's a hose to the degas bottle.




Because the old ones will probably leak if you reuse them after taking the intake manifold off and putting it back on. I think that on gen I if you have the correct wrench, you can do it without removing the intake manifold.

I understand replacing INTAKE manifold gaskets but to remove EXHAUST manifolds to get intake off? And I have that Snap-On wrench. I think he means intake not exhaust gaskets...
 
I understand replacing INTAKE manifold gaskets but to remove EXHAUST manifolds to get intake off? And I have that Snap-On wrench. I think me means intake not exhaust gaskets...

Yes, you are right.
 
Intake gaskets WX4Z-9439-AA
Exhaust gaskets XW4Z-9448-AC

Joe and Dale, not trying to piss anybody off, just gathering information on the parts I need to start replacing, best to buy all at once that way the car is not setting for weeks on end waiting for parts to arrive.

From my understanding, if I buy the OEM degas bottle it will come with the hose in question and if I buy the URO bottle I will need to buy this hose separately...correct?

Was researching these two hoses today (Motorcraft KM4566 Water Outlet Housing
and Coolant Recovery/Engine Coolant Recovery Tank Hose XW4Z-8C289-FA) when I saw this thread, do not mean to hijack your thread Dale.

Trying to keep Gen 1 and Gen 2 cooling changes can be daunting as well. Still trying to determine if any cooling pipes/hoses run under Gen 1 intake manifold (have 2001 shop manual) been very helpful, drawing in there suck though.
 
Last edited:
...From my understanding, if I buy the OEM degas bottle it will come with the hose in question and if I buy the URO bottle I will need to buy this hose separately...correct?...

Yes, AFAIK.
 
jmeecer, I'm assuming you have a Gen1? (Disclaimer, I'm on a Gen2).
The degas bottle has 3 hoses "attached" to it: 2 of them actually connect to it, 1 of them merely "hangs" on the degas bottle and does not actually connect to it (the heater air bleed hose).

I'm going to start by saying that whatever route you choose, don't forget to buy a degas bottle cap (9C3Z-8101-B @Tasca @RockAuto), because neither of these options come with it. It's under $10, so no point in keeping your old one. On the other hand, it's the easiest thing to change.

The Motorcraft degas bottle (5W4Z-8A080-AA) comes with the coolant return hose 8C289C (attaches to bottom of the bottle via the tube pictured in Dale's screenshot, post #53) AND the heater air bleed hose 8C289B (that only attaches to the degas bottle). The long hose 8276 (the actual degas / engine vent hose) that runs from the thermostat assembly to the top of the degas bottle does not come with it. XW4Z-8276-CB ?. I don't think people change it.

The Uro bottle is exactly the same as the Motorcraft bottle (the exact p/n I had originally installed was 3W43-8A080-AA), except that it comes with no hoses. I bought this bottle and installed it this weekend - hopefully will post some pictures soon.
If you go this route, you will want to buy the coolant return hose (8C289C / XW4Z-8C289-FA) mentioned above. Not only is the old one, well, old, but you are likely to break the old one in the process of removing it, possibly out of frustration. People say it might be easier if you just cut the old one. I think I punctured my old one by mistake with a pair of hose pliers. The nice thing about the new hose is that the snap rings (it comes with both) are glued to the hose, in the proper orientation, which actually helps with installation, in that you can pull on the metal ring rather than the hose to position it. After buying this item though, I didn't save much money by avoiding Motorcraft, so see how much the total is, especially if you're getting it from different sources.
From what I've been reading, you can't buy the heater air bleed hose by itself anymore. Personally, I'm fine with it. I don't know the p/n.

I don't know what KM-4566 / YW4Z-8C633-AA is about or where it goes; I had the same question. It is NOT the coolant return hose (8C289C / XW4Z-8C289-FA). After doing my shopping list/inventory, I don't see where it would even fit in. I have a feeling that it might be Gen1 specific part, but not sure. Notice from the pictures that it has a bracket to attach it to something at one end. Also Tasca describes it as: "Sub tank. P/s cooler to resv. 3.0L, 2000-02, cooler to reservoir. 3.9L, 2000-02, cooler to reservoir." Power steering? Anyway, I no longer trust any of these part store descriptions.

Hope this helps. Take my words with a grain of salt though, since I know nothing about Gen1, except that the degas bottle parts are shared.

Your diagram from post #50, for the short p/n on Gen1 (notice some inconsistencies, so maybe look for a better version if you can):
2002-lincoln-ls-degas-bottle-part-numbers-jpg.jpg
 
Last edited:
Here are better Gen1 diagrams. No part numbers though.
(There might still be some discrepancies, but at least the engine vent hose does not bifurcate just before the degas bottle and the upper and lower rad hoses don't both connect to the same port in the thermostat housing tower...)

Gen 1 - V8, 3.9L (Coolant flow diagram)
coolant flow diagram - gen1, 3.9.png

coolant flow legend - gen1, 3.9.png



Gen 1 - V6, 3.0L (Coolant flow diagram)
coolant flow diagram - gen1, 3.0.png

coolant flow legend - gen1, 3.0.png
 
...The degas bottle has 3 hoses "attached" to it: 2 of them actually connect to it, 1 of them merely "hangs" on the degas bottle and does not actually connect to it (the air bleed hose)...

That statement can be interpreted correctly or incorrectly as there are two hoses that might be labeled "air bleed."

The heater air bleed hose merely hangs on the degas bottle.
The engine air bleed hose connects to the top of the degas bottle.
(The engine air bleed hose goes from the top of the crossover assembly to the top of the degas bottle. It brings air from the engine coolant circuit to the metal tube that goes internally to near the bottom of the degas bottle.)
 
I'm still amazed I pushed my first gen 2002 LS V8 to 291,000 kms (181 k miles) without having coolant problems. Never once did any work on the coolant system. 8 years I drove that car.

I did change the coolant at 150k. Not sure if that helped - its worth noting that coolant can get corrosive, and as such it make be assisting in weakening the plastics along with the heat.
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top