Why is my LS overheating????

Now that ive sank about 650 bucks in it at shops and still had to fix it myself I dont know if ill ever trust a shop again.
I'm leery about a lot of shops, but I've found some good indie shops here and there. I never trust them with the LS though because it's so damn quirky. Even the Ford dealer I worked at from '13-17 had trouble with it because they usually ignored the shop manual and went with "experience" instead. I stopped trusting them fast and only brought it in (at employee rates) with explicit instructions if I didn't want to deal with it in my driveway
 
Yeah i paid a shop to pressure test my system few months back. they said it passed. Tell me what you think..

20190819_091339.jpg
 
Yeah i paid a shop to pressure test my system few months back. they said it passed. Tell me what you think...

I was a believer in pressure tests, until I had a difficult leak. I could see the coolant puddled on the engine after a drive on the interstate, but pressure testing it, I couldn't get it to leak (engine off, engine running, engine @ 2.5K RPM, engine cold, engine hot, ...)

Clearly, pressure tests have value, but just because you pass one, doesn't mean that all is well and there are no leaks.
 
My coolant bottle looked exactly the same and when I replaced it, I replaced the thermostat, coolant, and bottle together. I also removed the fluid from the cooling fan reservoir and replaced it with new fluid. My climate control valve I replaced myself 6 months ago with one I found at Autozone that cost me 90+ dollars.

The car seems to be running cool now.
 
I am having an issue with what seems like a component in my ac system is freezing up on road trips. The air volume drops off almost completely until I press the ac button and allow it to thaw out. It smells like ice melting through the vents and eventually the air starts blowing again through the vents. It’s an ODD SITUATION! Joegr any ideas?
 
I am having an issue with what seems like a component in my ac system is freezing up on road trips. The air volume drops off almost completely until I press the ac button and allow it to thaw out. It smells like ice melting through the vents and eventually the air starts blowing again through the vents. It’s an ODD SITUATION! Joegr any ideas?

Yes. Your evaporator is icing over. It could be because of low refrigerant, or it could just be that conditions are ideal for that to happen. The LS has an evaporator temperature sensor that prevents freeze up. I've had to replace this sensor on both of mine, and some other members have as well.

On both sides of the center air box, there is a small white connector. These are the outlet temperature sensors for the driver and passenger sides. The evaporator temperature sensor is on the driver's side up above the outlet temperature sensor. You can change it without any dissassembly of the dash. It just pulls out.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5DZS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Note that you can only see the connector part of it till it is removed.
 
So when I took the fan out, I released my freon. I havent ran ac at all since i did this. Is it going to take more than a recharge now?
 
So when I took the fan out, I released my freon. I havent ran ac at all since i did this. Is it going to take more than a recharge now?

It's not Freon (R-12), it's Suva (R-134a).
At the very least, you have to replace the dryer and pull a deep vacuum for at least 30 minutes. You also need to replace whatever amount of oil has been lost.
 
Yes. Your evaporator is icing over. It could be because of low refrigerant, or it could just be that conditions are ideal for that to happen. The LS has an evaporator temperature sensor that prevents freeze up. I've had to replace this sensor on both of mine, and some other members have as well.

On both sides of the center air box, there is a small white connector. These are the outlet temperature sensors for the driver and passenger sides. The evaporator temperature sensor is on the driver's side up above the outlet temperature sensor. You can change it without any dissassembly of the dash. It just pulls out.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5DZS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Note that you can only see the connector part of it till it is removed.
Thank you Joe. I haven’t spent the time to check it out yet. I’m thinking low Freon.
 
Thank you Joe. I haven’t spent the time to check it out yet. I’m thinking low Freon.

Ether way, the temp sensor is bad or it wouldn't let this happen.
The LS, like most cars now, does not use Freon (R-12). It uses Suva (R-134a) as its refrigerant.
 
Ether way, the temp sensor is bad or it wouldn't let this happen.
The LS, like most cars now, does not use Freon (R-12). It uses Suva (R-134a) as its refrigerant.
It sure drives good though. I like it. I’m just a little frustrated with what it has cost to fix things. 116,000 miles currently and also wondering when the transmission should be flushed and filter changed.
 
It sure drives good though. I like it. I’m just a little frustrated with what it has cost to fix things. 116,000 miles currently and also wondering when the transmission should be flushed and filter changed.

The manual says every 150K miles, but most do it sooner than that.
 
Well I'm not messing with the a/c myself. The only reason it came off was because the thread on how to replace the fan didnt mention it would release r 134 or whatever. But I was just wondering if I can just go pay to have it recharged or if it will take alot more.
 
Correctly flushing the fluid, using the correct fluid will not cause any problems. Incorrectly doing it and/or using the wrong fluid most certainly would.



Not really.
I don’t guess there is a better option or upgraded transmission then?
 
I don’t guess there is a better option or upgraded transmission then?

It can be rebuilt to fix the major flaws. Note that you may not experience them. My 04 has over 240K miles and no transmission work other than a solenoid assembly back when it was still under warranty, and a couple of fluid flushes.
My 06, on the other hand, required a full rebuild at around 200K miles.
 
Ls still no overheating since electric fan conversion!
 
Okay so when I put in the degas bottle, I had to remove the strut bar. In doing so i broke the bolt off. If i drill it out like one a scale of one to 10, how careful do i have to be not to hit somthing under there?
 
It's crazy. You can literally see where the old degas bottle leaked by where the surface rust is. It rusted every bolt around it.
 
The strut mount is under that area and if you drill it out and push the drill bit too far down you’ll end up drilling into the top rubber bushing in the mount. That would of course damage the mount and eventually cause that rubber piece in the top to fail in my opinion.
 
Get a wooden dowel. Drill a hole through the center of it. Cut it to the right length that when you stick the drill bit through it, only enough of the drill bit sticks through to drill the piece of bolt out, without going deeper than that.
 
Get a wooden dowel. Drill a hole through the center of it. Cut it to the right length that when you stick the drill bit through it, only enough of the drill bit sticks through to drill the piece of bolt out, without going deeper than that.
Joe you are a smart man sir. That’s a great idea that I never thought about.
 

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