Recent content by xTHANATOPSISx

Did a rebuild on a 4R70W for a friends mustang and while looking at some diagrams, noticed that the seal on the 4R70 is the same setup as the 5R55 (pretty sure that's our trans) and its not too big a deal, if the manual lever isn't a pain to R/R. Looks like just dropping the pan, removing a...

Thanks for the diagram and info. I'll probably see if I can get the electronic piece off and take a look at the seal/o-ring. I suppose I MIGHT be able to replace the seal from the outside if I'm really lucky. Otherwise, I get the feeling the trans is coming out and going to a shop for the...

Came in to find my car surrounded by an ocean of tranny fluid. Got it up on the lift and have found that the leak came from the shift rod, where it come out on the driver's side and enters that shift selector/sensor piece. Looks like the fluid leaked into the electronic piece and came out the...

That's kinda the method I hoped I could get away with. If your's is still working it will probably work for me too. If I don't get any compelling reason to do otherwise, that's what I'll do.

Good thoughts there. I'm going to bet I'd have to activate the fan to flush the whole system if the fan has run since this happened. It might be easier to drain the lines and turn the fan to empty the motor and then just do whatever is necessary to bleed the air back out after. Just depends...

About 2 ounces if my estimates on what "this much" (holds up fingers spaced about 1/8th inch apart) means are correct. So how should I go about flushing the system? Yes, its been run already with it in there. Yes it looks like chocolate milk in there. Can I just drain and refill the...

I was just kicking back in my recliner and the image of a LS tucking 10.50 drag radials, skinnies and a cali' rake loping down the boulevard flashed through my head. Since I already have a '84 351W truck block laying round that needs a rebuild, I just got to wondering what it would be like...

So, anyone know of a LS with a blown engine going for cheap? I have a 351W with nothing to do....

It's more than enough since that amp only makes about 400 watts RMS at best, and depending on how its actually loaded down. It just doesn't have 3/32" of insulation around it to make it look huge while still only being 16ga. Frankly, anything more than 14ga is overkill with less than 1000...

If the fuses on the AMP constantly blow, the amp is probably fried.

He won't needs a cap for that. Caps are NOT the fix all most people believe them to be. That amp shouldn't draw enough current to hurt anything. He'd be better off upgrading the charging and major ground wires than adding a cap and would probably have half the cost invested in doing so.

Not bad, but PLEASE, make a couple small slits and run the wiring under the carpet. It will look SO much better and be safer for the wiring. You did good makeing the wiring neat, now you just need to make it disappear.

Oh, and as a tip, you can likely hook the remote module's power to the switched power for the radio so that it automatically shut off with the car, not leaving the amp on for 5 mins after shut down. That shouldn't be long enough to drain any healthy battery, but why not.

You'll need to remove the radio to get to the speaker wires to begin with. The car likely doesn't HAVE a remote wire. Fairly few stock systems use a conventional remote output. For you loc, I'd suggest going to www.davidnavone.com and getting what you need. Really good stuff. Also, navone...