12 hours Bruised and all scratched up and still no HEAT!

W

wknld4

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I am in desperate need of a good counseling session or I am going to 12-gauge my car! After reading many posts and researching my heat issue all of the symptoms and previous posts pointed to the DCCV.

I have a 2000 lincoln ls v8 but it has a 2003 model engine. After taking 12 hours today (because I am not a mechanic and this was my first time ever working on a car) I removed my DCCV cleaned per tireman's instruction document he sent me and then replaced it all back together. I bled the system, idle for 3 minutes at 2000 rpm and bam I had heat!

After the heat was blowing through vents at 90 degress I switched it to defrost to see if it would blow heat in the past it would only blow cold air. WOW! After the car sat runing for at least 5 minutes I has heat. I was pumped and proud that I managed such a task.

Next I set the temp to 75 degrees per instruction sheet I had and it decreased a little but still was warm. I turned the car of and let it sit until I finished replacing air breather.

Got in my car and started the drive home about a 12 minute ride and guess what. Window fogging, no heat when I placed on defrost only cold air which did clear up the fogging but clearly it is back to doing what it did before. Lukewarm at bes ton the heat. When I press the aout button on wvwn at set temp of 90 the ac button lights up. I manually turn it off and push the floor/defrost button only to get lukewarm to a cool air.

I have performed the computer self diagnostic and get all 8's and I can hear the doors open and shut during the testing. Also the heater hoses are hot all the way into the firewall.

I need some help what is next?
 
what does the throttle cable connect to? not sure if they used setup from the old motor or the new motor, but if they used the wrong style of Johnson rod, it could be related to your problem.
 
mlara1129 said:
Curious to know how this happened?
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I am too actually. I am assuming they just used the short block? Then used a set of Gen I heads, intake manifold, and TB. That would theoretically be the only way that it would work.
 
I would replace the DCCV with a new one and see what happens. Cleaning it may have only worked for a short amount of time.
 
centason said:
I am too actually. I am assuming they just used the short block? Then used a set of Gen I heads, intake manifold, and TB. That would theoretically be the only way that it would work.
Click to expand...

Yes, my engine was replaced under warranty and the new block (top half was all my old stuff) has a tag on it stating manuf. in 2006. Doubt his has VVT

As far as the heat goes, just get a new dccv as you don't want to do this job a third time. May as well throw a new auxilary coolant pump in while you're in there as well. That seems to cause no heat at idle. You could repair it by popping the cover off the motor and replacing the brushes if they are worn. I even found replacement brushes: http://store.eurtonelectric.com/brushlowvoltage33e-2-2.aspx
 
What if I replace the dccv valve with a new one and I still have issues? What is my next step?

Thanks for all the advice so far. One unrelated question will using standard GTX Oil be o.k. to use versus the synthetic blend?
 
Use buckshot.

You indicated you originally went threw the steps of checking for a bad valve and found that it was. OK. You pulled a dirty, corroded valve apart and cleaned it as best you could and it worked for a short time. Seems like it is the valve but couldn't be cleaned.
 
wknld4 said:
What if I replace the dccv valve with a new one and I still have issues? What is my next step?

Thanks for all the advice so far. One unrelated question will using standard GTX Oil be o.k. to use versus the synthetic blend?
Click to expand...

Unplug the electrical connector to the valve. If you get heat then, you have a problem with the DATC or the wiring to the DCCV. If you still don't get heat, then you have a cooling system problem, usually a leak that allows air to get trapped.

You are out of warranty, so you can use whatever you want. Ford's opinion is that you need at least a synthetic blend. Using anything less than that would be cause to void the factory warranty. If you can't afford the correct oil and the correct octane gasoline, you have bought the wrong car and should switch to something cheaper as soon as possible.
 
wknld4 said:
One unrelated question will using standard GTX Oil be o.k. to use versus the synthetic blend?
Click to expand...

lets think about this for a second...


your car has already had some sort of MAJOR engine damage during its many many years of of apparent abuse. and now you want to run some stuff that is not up to par with what the dealer puts in it?

sure, its probably "ok"

but then again "ok" has never been as good as "good"

i can only imagine what other corners you want to cut.
 
how long he may or may not have owned the car has nothing to do with how well a motor was taken care of.

well maintained motors rarely need to be replaced

and he did ask a question, so i want to give him the honest answer he deserves. personally, i would rather pay extra and "overprotect" the motor, than cheap out and "under protect" a motor that is so costly to repair, that and said expesive repairs has already had to be done.
 
02LincLS said:
Yes, my engine was replaced under warranty and the new block (top half was all my old stuff) has a tag on it stating manuf. in 2006. Doubt his has VVT

As far as the heat goes, just get a new dccv as you don't want to do this job a third time. May as well throw a new auxilary coolant pump in while you're in there as well. That seems to cause no heat at idle. You could repair it by popping the cover off the motor and replacing the brushes if they are worn. I even found replacement brushes: http://store.eurtonelectric.com/brushlowvoltage33e-2-2.aspx
Click to expand...
You just made my day Linc. Now that I know it will work I can start looking. OP, I would follow joegr's recomendations and save yourself the headache, cuts, and bruses.
 
centason said:
You just made my day Linc. Now that I know it will work I can start looking. OP, I would follow joegr's recomendations and save yourself the headache, cuts, and bruses.
Click to expand...

Know what will work? Looking for what?
 
using a 2nd gen short block on a 1st gen upper half of the motor (allegedly)
 
It would actually work. The only thing difference internally was the bearing sizes were beefier in the gen II. It's the exact same block. That's like saying the blocks are different between a 2jz-gte VVT-I and 2jz-gte non VVT-I when they are identical minus the difference in rod sizes, NOT length. VVT-I rods are thinner.
 
The only way to know for sure is check with Max if there is two different bottom ends you can buy. Mine was made in '06, but could still be specifically for 00-02.
 
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