lincoln v8
New LVC Member
I am looking for a step by step video or pictures on how to do front end work on a 2002 LSE. Does anybody have any suggestions on where to find this?
Front End Help
- Thread starter lincoln v8
- Start date
lincoln v8
New LVC Member
Suspension. Making a noise when I hit bumps. Have never worked on the car, not even sure what I have, as far as ball joint, struts...just not sure. Any kind of information would be helpful.
jmtiseo
The Peanut Gallery
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, just trying to give a wee summary here.
From the little experience I have with working on cars, I'm not the most handy but I can do suspension work. Doesn't phase me like it used to because in it's simplest sense it's unbolting components in order to get to the problem part then assembling in reverse. Replace broken part yourself or take it somewhere to have them do the grunt work, press in a lower ball joint for example.
As far as checking what part is causing your noise. These cars, probably others too, have problems with the bushings dry rotting and cracking. From what I've read and experienced these create a hollow thud sound. Common parts are sway bar bushings lower control arm bushings these were dry rotted and cracked on mine. Replaced them and it helped but I think I need to do the sway bar too.
Ball joints, tie rod ends, and bearings all can create play in the wheel. A noise from hitting a bump can be a sign of a worn ball joint, tie rod end, worn bushings, or the whole shebang.
Ball joints can be checked by grabbing the wheel at 12 & 6 and alternate pushing in and out. There's also a way by jacking it up just enough to fit a 2x4 under neath and lifting the bottom of the tire and a second guy underneath looking at the joint for play. Your lower ball joints can be replaced with Moog from Rock Auto or anywhere that sells them. The part from the dealer will run you around $3-400 as it includes the entire steering knuckle with the ball joint already pressed in. The upper ball joints are only sold with the upper control arm and again can be replace with Moog or Ford. Don't be surprised if the ones from Ford say Jaguar on them, they are the same. Just remember to put them on the right side so you don't screw up like this jack wagon did.
Tie rod ends will require a tool to be removed, the inner ones only I believe as they are inside the boot of the rack and pinion. When I checked mine I get under there and either grab the tie rod end and check for play or someone will be at the wheel quickly turning it back and forth trying to create play. Again these can be replaced with Moog if you want to grease them, I think most replace with Ford parts though.
Checking your bushings (sway bar, lower control arms, etc.) I think is more visual. If they are all cracked and dry rotted chances are they are a source of sound from a bump. Unfortunately for the lower control arms the only replacement so far is to replace the lower control arm. The sway bar you should be better off as I believe first gens don't have the bushing molded to the sway bar so you'll be able to replace those separate from the sway bar itself. Some guys on here replaced there's with bushings from Energy Suspension with some luck and having to keep them greased or they will creak. As far as end links of the sway bar go, these are cheap and easy enough that you could probably replace while you're in there without a problem.
I have not come across coil over problems but I'm told that a blown shock will make your tire bounce like a basketball. There will also be fluid or something leaking from it as the seals are shot. Most stick with OEM shocks if they're replacing them.
After any suspension work I'd get the alignment checked and more than likely aligned, which reminds me I have to have that done soon. Especially after replacing lower control arms. You'll definitely see why if you take a look, the adjustments to your alignment are made on the lower control arms. These cars require a four wheel alignment because the front wheels need to be aligned to the rears.
If anything needs to be pressed in on the suspension it's going to be sold from the dealer with the part it's being pressed into. The suspension parts are rather expensive because they are cast from aluminum. I saved close to a $1000 doing the upper and lower control arms myself last summer. Ran into a few speed bumps along the way but I learned alot doing it myself, it's not too complicated under there once you start taking stuff apart.
Hope this helped, good luck.
From the little experience I have with working on cars, I'm not the most handy but I can do suspension work. Doesn't phase me like it used to because in it's simplest sense it's unbolting components in order to get to the problem part then assembling in reverse. Replace broken part yourself or take it somewhere to have them do the grunt work, press in a lower ball joint for example.
As far as checking what part is causing your noise. These cars, probably others too, have problems with the bushings dry rotting and cracking. From what I've read and experienced these create a hollow thud sound. Common parts are sway bar bushings lower control arm bushings these were dry rotted and cracked on mine. Replaced them and it helped but I think I need to do the sway bar too.
Ball joints, tie rod ends, and bearings all can create play in the wheel. A noise from hitting a bump can be a sign of a worn ball joint, tie rod end, worn bushings, or the whole shebang.
Ball joints can be checked by grabbing the wheel at 12 & 6 and alternate pushing in and out. There's also a way by jacking it up just enough to fit a 2x4 under neath and lifting the bottom of the tire and a second guy underneath looking at the joint for play. Your lower ball joints can be replaced with Moog from Rock Auto or anywhere that sells them. The part from the dealer will run you around $3-400 as it includes the entire steering knuckle with the ball joint already pressed in. The upper ball joints are only sold with the upper control arm and again can be replace with Moog or Ford. Don't be surprised if the ones from Ford say Jaguar on them, they are the same. Just remember to put them on the right side so you don't screw up like this jack wagon did.
Tie rod ends will require a tool to be removed, the inner ones only I believe as they are inside the boot of the rack and pinion. When I checked mine I get under there and either grab the tie rod end and check for play or someone will be at the wheel quickly turning it back and forth trying to create play. Again these can be replaced with Moog if you want to grease them, I think most replace with Ford parts though.
Checking your bushings (sway bar, lower control arms, etc.) I think is more visual. If they are all cracked and dry rotted chances are they are a source of sound from a bump. Unfortunately for the lower control arms the only replacement so far is to replace the lower control arm. The sway bar you should be better off as I believe first gens don't have the bushing molded to the sway bar so you'll be able to replace those separate from the sway bar itself. Some guys on here replaced there's with bushings from Energy Suspension with some luck and having to keep them greased or they will creak. As far as end links of the sway bar go, these are cheap and easy enough that you could probably replace while you're in there without a problem.
I have not come across coil over problems but I'm told that a blown shock will make your tire bounce like a basketball. There will also be fluid or something leaking from it as the seals are shot. Most stick with OEM shocks if they're replacing them.
After any suspension work I'd get the alignment checked and more than likely aligned, which reminds me I have to have that done soon. Especially after replacing lower control arms. You'll definitely see why if you take a look, the adjustments to your alignment are made on the lower control arms. These cars require a four wheel alignment because the front wheels need to be aligned to the rears.
If anything needs to be pressed in on the suspension it's going to be sold from the dealer with the part it's being pressed into. The suspension parts are rather expensive because they are cast from aluminum. I saved close to a $1000 doing the upper and lower control arms myself last summer. Ran into a few speed bumps along the way but I learned alot doing it myself, it's not too complicated under there once you start taking stuff apart.
Hope this helped, good luck.
Once you determine your needs, rockauto.com has a good number of parts but Max at Five Star Ford(advertisement to the right) is a great contact for oem parts. But be prepared, the LS is not a cheap car to own.
jolinc01
Dedicated LVC Member
If you find your shop manual I'd replace all the front end components if they've never been changed. My guess is you sway bar ends or sway bar bushings are bad if you heard a thud over bumps.
lincoln v8
New LVC Member
Thank you for all the information. This is the first time I have posted a question and I really appreciate all the feed back. I now have an idea as to what I need to check out. The car only has 86,000 miles on it and I am sure nothing has been done to it since it left the factory. Thank you again!!!
Front suspension work can be tricky...
Front suspension work can be tricky if you don't do things like put penetrating oil on all the suspension nuts before you get them jammed up and start stripping out the hex on the stud. Yes it take two wrenches to take off the lower ball joint stud, the upper ball joint stud the outer tie rod end and the stabilizer end link studs. Lube them up or you will have to cut them off if the car has ever been exposed to salt. Then it is still a bear sometimes.
Also look at the LSvsCad. POST "Front Stabilizer bar upgrade". Replace the bar and the end links first. Check and replace lower ball joints if needed. Use the Moog type and you will have to rent a press. If you mess them up the Dealer price if now $600 for a complete spindle support with ball joint.
Remember all suspension bushings have to be tightened at ride height or they will tear loose and you will get the rubber squeeking noise over bumps.
Also the front control arm bushing is fluid filled with a plastic spacer.
Mark all the control arm bolts and crossmember bolts before removal to get close to the original alignment specs. The take the car directly to an alignment rack and perform an alignment after repairs.
These front suspensions are not for the guy with a big hammer nor for the timid.
Be careful who aligns the car, if not done right it will wear out tires real fast! Get someone experienced or dealer only. People mess these cars up all the time. That's how I bought 4 Lincolns LSs cheap last year, rebuilt 3, driving one and sold the other 2. I own 4 LSs right now. Had one LS since 2001.
Mr. H
9 Years Ford Senior Master Technician. Dave Sinclair Lincoln. St. Louis.
Front suspension work can be tricky if you don't do things like put penetrating oil on all the suspension nuts before you get them jammed up and start stripping out the hex on the stud. Yes it take two wrenches to take off the lower ball joint stud, the upper ball joint stud the outer tie rod end and the stabilizer end link studs. Lube them up or you will have to cut them off if the car has ever been exposed to salt. Then it is still a bear sometimes.
Also look at the LSvsCad. POST "Front Stabilizer bar upgrade". Replace the bar and the end links first. Check and replace lower ball joints if needed. Use the Moog type and you will have to rent a press. If you mess them up the Dealer price if now $600 for a complete spindle support with ball joint.
Remember all suspension bushings have to be tightened at ride height or they will tear loose and you will get the rubber squeeking noise over bumps.
Also the front control arm bushing is fluid filled with a plastic spacer.
Mark all the control arm bolts and crossmember bolts before removal to get close to the original alignment specs. The take the car directly to an alignment rack and perform an alignment after repairs.
These front suspensions are not for the guy with a big hammer nor for the timid.
Be careful who aligns the car, if not done right it will wear out tires real fast! Get someone experienced or dealer only. People mess these cars up all the time. That's how I bought 4 Lincolns LSs cheap last year, rebuilt 3, driving one and sold the other 2. I own 4 LSs right now. Had one LS since 2001.
Mr. H
9 Years Ford Senior Master Technician. Dave Sinclair Lincoln. St. Louis.
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