Got the Rotorpros Package Installed, Now 3 Problems!!

Lincoln Luebbe

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First off the rotors seem to be great, haven't seated them yet do to other issues that need resolved first...

#1. SS braklines included in the set leak really bad from where they attach to the caliper. After checking everything out it seems they gave me multiple sizes of crush washers which don't provide the needed seal. I am going to try and locate the right size and go from there.

#2. During the testing of the turning radius of the lines, my battery died. When it did my alarm went of and lights flickered and a bunch of crazy stuff. I threw a charger on it for about an hour and tried to start it up so I could disengage the parking brake so we could do the rears and it started for a second and immediately dies. I went out and bought a brand new battery and now I have a constant "check Advancetrac" message. Never had a problem with my advance track, and I'm not convinced there is a problem just need to know about reseting it maybe???

#3. Brand new pards, brand new rotors and both fronts twitch or tick, basically a metallic scrape noise without and brakes being applied. All points lubed well and brakes were bled...

Any help is appreciated...

Before

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After

121.jpg
 
I would think the check advancetrac message is coming from one of your abs sensors, go around and check all 4, disconnect and clean the connections. you might have knocked one loose during the installs or maybe pulled a plug somewhere when turning the wheel? best of luck
 
For #3 did you make sure to reinstall the rattle clips and verify they were positioned properly? Sometimes they come off with the old pads or get out of position when the new pads go in.
 
112 LS, I will check the sensors when I do the lines, thanks for the tip.

Xford, I made sure the clips were in place and they did not hit the rotor as it turned when it was help tight against the hub, but I have half a mind to pull the clips totally and see if that is the issue.
 
Before checking the clips did you bed-in/seat the pads? Google brake bed in and or brake seating. If you know the brand of pads they may have specific bed-in instructions on their website. My Hawk pads had a process to follow that involved a series of stops at escalating speeds and force.
 
Thanks ShortC!

Xford, I have not seated the pads. I read on Rotorpros website to wait until you have at least 10-100 miles on your car before seating the brakes, which involves 8 almost stops from 60-10 mph. I just took the car on a test drive last night after we were done and the constant twitching/scraping from the fronts was a little dis-heartening since we had spent the whole day trying to get things right. Are you saying that it may change after the pads are seated?
 
The only time you need to wait before a bed-in procedure is when your rotors are treated with special anti-rust coating.

Source: Zeckhausen Racing (http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm)

I waited about 100km before bedding mine in (anti-rust treated ATE rotors). With my semi-metallic Wagner pads, I have very little brake dust up front, and a bit at the back. Zero sounds, and excellent stopping power.
 
If it's a light scraping I think bedding the pads could potentially resolve it. It would need to sound like pad on rotor not pure metal on metal. Remember even though the parts are new it does not mean everything will be perfectly true/flat. Bedding will rapidly remove small imperfections on the pad and the rotor that can cause scraping sounds. However, I would not want you to do any damage via heavy brake application if something is installed wrong or otherwise out of alignment.
 
Nothing helpful here, I'm just curious as to how "During the testing of the turning radius of the lines, my battery died."

You don't even have to put the key in, let alone turn it on to be able to turn the steering wheel (The LS has no steering wheel lock).

In any event, it must have been about time for a new battery anyway.

I too was/am nervous about how short the SS lines are.
 
UPDATE- Check Advancetrac warning light and alert are gone. Once the system cycled through it cleared. I know nothing was wrong with the Advancetrac it was just some kind of a dead battery/system dying issue.

Joegr- I had the key in the ignition, I didn't realize after a total of almost five years (between both) with the LS that it didn't have a locking steering wheel! I guess I just never noticed it... But yeah the original battery, car produced in 2005 and now has 91K on it. It was probably time anyways.

M4rk- The Rotorpros package has a zinc coating on them so that is why I waited.

Xford- What you are saying makes sense. I don't really know what a pad on rotor sounds like, but that might be an acurate description of what I hear. Believe me I don't want to damage anything either but I am pretty positive they are installed right. I will let you know how the bedding process goes.
 
Joegr-

The SS lines are shorter, but they work. The only real problem is not letting the ABS sensor wire that clips to the SS line rub on the strut. Took a couple of tries clipping it on with zip ties and turning it before we got it right. It died right after we got it right...

And then the line leaked so we had to put the old line back on since the crush washers that came with the lines were not all the same size. Be sure to check that they are all the same/right size before the install. It will save you alot of trouble.
 
Sorry guys, in the midst of the brake issue I totally forgot about another potential issue with my rear sway bar/end links...

While I was in the rear wheel wells I took a look at all my bushings etc since I had a recent squeak develop.

If I grab the spot where the sway bar and the rear sway bar end link bolt togther and there is movement simply by me shaking it then there is a problem right? It does it on both sides, I just want to make sure this isn't some kind of IRS allowable play before I order new end links. If I grab the sway bar up higher and try to move it it doesn't move. It is only the end where the end link meets the sawy bar. Also the end links don't really look destroyed. Just need some expert info.
 
UPDATE #2...

Hopped onto I-75 and did the 60-10 mph 8 times as recomended by Rotorpros and then kept it at about 70 for the next 5 minutes. Once I got off the interstate the twitching/scraping had stopped. I am pretty happy, the only time i get it now is when I am braking and have the steering wheel at almost full lock like around a corner. It's like the weight of the car has something to do with it. I can live with that though. No pulsing and they look great.

Thanks Xford for the idea that seating them might be a good thing!

So # 2 & #3 are taken care of. The SS lines will have to be done one night this week or Saturday... I'll keep the thread updated.
 
I would take the caliper off, and check your rotors for any cut grooves, just to be sure.
 
M4rk I felt the outer side of all the rotors once they cooled down and they are pretty smooth on all four corners, for now at least...
 
The package is nice, however I finally got the correct washers for the SS lines and I am really on the fence about the SS lines. I do feel that that brakes kick in earlier than they did with the stock lines, and the brake pedal feels just a tad firmer than it did. But I also feel that as the car is coming to a stop I have to push the pedal just a little harder than I would think I should. No air in the lines or anything like that. Anyone experience this with the SS lines?
 
You need to give the brakes some time to break-in. The braking feel and performance will improve over the next few weeks.
 
Cool, that is good to know Xford. This is the first time I have done something like this to the brake lines so I am sort of learning as I go. I appreciate all the help you have given me so far!
 
Luebbe, did you do both sides at once (in terms of replacing the lines)? I need to paint all 4 calipers, and have been waiting for when I put my Rotorpro's rotors/pads and front SS lines on. I figured I would just let the entire system bleed out and fill from scratch. I posted the question a while ago about it, and many said that I may have to use a pressurized bleeding system if I do that.

What was your experience (understanding that you may have only took apart your fronts)?
 
I only got the SS lines for the fronts. I was having a small issue with my brakes before I installed the package and I thought maybe one of my front lines was collapsed/collapsing. As it turns out it wasn't but I would not have known without trying another set of lines.

In terms of bleeding I have heard that a pressurized bleeding system is better all the way around. Having said that, I had someone help me and we did the old pump and bleed method. I did not do a full fluid change because I did not want to have to bleed the backs as well due to time constraints (work, school, new baby etc). I had spent too long on it the day before and just wanted it done. If you have the option to bleed the system fully I would do it. It certainly cannot hurt and can only help.

I will probably have to end up bleeding the whole system eventually. From what limited knowledge I have a pressurized bleeding process keeps air from getting into your lines. If you do it the pump and bleed way I believe you will have to bleed all four corners. The pressurized way is what keeps the air out and the new fluid pushed through to your calipers. Hope this helps a little!

Let me know if you have any more questions and have fun if you make it out to the meet tomorrow. I would love to be there but I live about 20 minuted from KY and I really can't justify driving the entire height of the state to Toledo. If an Ohio meet ever comes to somewhere even in the mddle of the state I would be down but 4 hours one way isn't realistic for me at this point. Everybdy understands but I still hate to miss it!
 
The package is nice, however I finally got the correct washers for the SS lines and I am really on the fence about the SS lines. I do feel that that brakes kick in earlier than they did with the stock lines, and the brake pedal feels just a tad firmer than it did. But I also feel that as the car is coming to a stop I have to push the pedal just a little harder than I would think I should. No air in the lines or anything like that. Anyone experience this with the SS lines?

Where did you get the correct crush washers from? Is there a part number or size of those crush washers?

See bottom of this thread for the reason why I am asking: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?p=851544&posted=1#post851544

Edit:
After a couple hours of reading, it appears they must be a 10mm standard crush washer... correct?
One on each side of the banjo fitting at each caliper... correct?
 
LDM,
I just went to Advance Auto parts with the correct washer (Stoptech gave me two different sizes, one was a lot larger and I had to try to center it when tightening the line to the caliper) and bought a pack. They had them in sets of two. Yes there should be one on each side of the banjo, but I honestly don't know the size. I just matched it up with the washer that was a more perfect fit.
 

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