Door ajar
- Thread starter Pinhead
- Start date
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Just spray wd40 or some kind of lube into the door lock unit. This is sprayed into the door ,the part that locks the door shut and grabs onto the door striker. Close and open the door like 10 times. Most of the time this frees up the sticky switch in there and shuts off the light.
Roadboss
Dedicated LVC Member
Because the switch in the door is sticking and sending a signal to your dash that the door isn't closed. Very common problem that is resolved with a good dose of WD-40 in the door latch access hole, and working the lock button up and down.
chicken
SHEOOOOOOOOT
pb blaster is better and its into the latch not the lock, but yeah and slam the hell out of it 20 times or till the light goes out
oh and :W to :V (everyones first post, your aloud one)
oh and :W to :V (everyones first post, your aloud one)
KStromberg
Dedicated LVC Member
After all that, it may not hurt to follow up with a coating of white lithium grease.
thaywood
Dedicated LVC Member
+500 on the PB Blaster. I tried WD40 among other lubes to no avail. I finally sprayed some PB on mine and let it sit over night and that did the trick. It's great stuff!
mespock
Marxists - Socialists
Got to love the smell of PB ...
philly0420
Dedicated LVC Member
http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp
http://www.wd40.com/files/pdf/wd-40_2042538679.pdf
You sir are severly misinformed or your not using it for one of the 2046
things that it does.
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
I like PB way better but I got a 1 gallon can of WD40 for xmas. The price is high on PB and it smells hard so I use WD40 on the latches. Plus I do this for free for all peeps. Don't use WD40 for any rust proofing on metal parts(blocks ,cranks) does not work!!!
FASTLLS
Dedicated LVC Member
I use Royal Purples MaxiFilm stuff that needs lube and PB on things that I need to break loose.. Just my preference..
FASTLLS
Dedicated LVC Member
Agreed.. The only thing I use WD-40 for is detailing..
bpbkforlife
New LVC Member
Man thank you all very much for that advice, I had this problem for about a month
as far as i know the door ajar light on my ride has been on for 3 years..... previous owner spent over 3000 bucks chasing electrical demons and never figured it out. yall helped me fix it over night. no more door ajar warning. now i just need to fix the check air ride warning. My suspension conversion had instructions like cut the dark green wire on the grey plug in the 13 or 15 slot. i have no idea if thats right its from memory.
chicken
SHEOOOOOOOOT
i dont mind it but the wife hates it and bitches till the smell is gone
yup once you've used pb you wont even use wd to "prop open a window" lol
if it comes back on toss a switch in it. its cheap
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Just had this problem today and found this thread..I hit the mechanism in the door with a couple quick sprays of brake cleaner followed by liquid wrench (same sh*t as pb blaster pretty much)..and open and closed both doors a bunch of times and ta-da no more door ajar light.
On a related note I think this started happening because of the few cold days we've had around here lately by me. I was frozen out of my car three times this past week, my key would still go in the lock but I couldn't turn it to unlock the door..you could see the lock trying to pop up but something was frozen in the mechanism itself. When trying the power locks from the number pad there wasn't enough power to physically unlock the lock. Everytime I've had to heat the door handle and around the handle itself along with jerking the key back and forth (gently as to not break the key) to unseize the mechanism in the door.
This has become a HUGE pain in the a$$ especially when I'm trying to leave for work in the morning when it has dipped below freezing. Has anybody else had this problem? And if so how did you fix this. I've taken door panels off at the junkyard before and its not a fun task..hard to remove it without breaking anything..if I can fix his without taking door panels of I would be happy.
On a related note I think this started happening because of the few cold days we've had around here lately by me. I was frozen out of my car three times this past week, my key would still go in the lock but I couldn't turn it to unlock the door..you could see the lock trying to pop up but something was frozen in the mechanism itself. When trying the power locks from the number pad there wasn't enough power to physically unlock the lock. Everytime I've had to heat the door handle and around the handle itself along with jerking the key back and forth (gently as to not break the key) to unseize the mechanism in the door.
This has become a HUGE pain in the a$$ especially when I'm trying to leave for work in the morning when it has dipped below freezing. Has anybody else had this problem? And if so how did you fix this. I've taken door panels off at the junkyard before and its not a fun task..hard to remove it without breaking anything..if I can fix his without taking door panels of I would be happy.
keatonsdad
Dedicated LVC Member
I would like to see some pics of your car. I had a willow green 95 and always wanted to see another one!
NetKeym
Dedicated LVC Member
The reason you can't stop rust is it was not designed as a lubricant (even though there are thousands of lubrication reasons on that list). It was designed as a water displacement formula. You're supposed to lubricate with some sort of oil or grease after using WD-40.
WD-40 stands for Water Displacement 40th Formula.
And for the record, I sprayed my latch (both of them actually) repeatedly for a couple of days with WD-40 and my DOOR AJAR is still on!
WD-40 stands for Water Displacement 40th Formula.
And for the record, I sprayed my latch (both of them actually) repeatedly for a couple of days with WD-40 and my DOOR AJAR is still on!
I've posted a few threads of pics of my car, most under "95 mark with 96 HIDs" i think was the name of thread after i did the swap..but here's a few.
I too have only seen ONE other willow green 95 or 96 mark viii in person before, and it was well before i owned mine. I do however see alot of the deep jewel green marks around. Willow green was supposedly the 4th most produced color for the 95 model year out of 15 color choices though..so i don't know where all of them went..but i do see this same color on alot of other fords from this era, mainly grand marquis, town cars, crown vics etc..
few months after i bought it.
after swapping to the HIDs