Few new shots of the Aqua Blue.

Funny, last night I was thinking like damn man pektel always has his car clean as hell why doesnt he just put a how to video up on cleaning/claying the car and all.. then you post the autogeek site! thanks bro.. but you can still do a how to..
 
Come on Arthur, we all know that the street you were on is the driveway to you house.
 
Soopa009 said:
Funny, last night I was thinking like damn man pektel always has his car clean as hell why doesnt he just put a how to video up on cleaning/claying the car and all.. then you post the autogeek site! thanks bro.. but you can still do a how to..
Click to expand...

autogeek is just where I got started. I have different products/techniques/methods too.
 
Nice, always looking good.

I have to spend a few hours on that website. I want to have my car clean and super nice all the time but when I read pektel talkinng about all those products like nothing, scares me :shifty: , so many products and different things you have to do. Guess you have to start somewhere
 
This is what I received per Pete's recommend. I got it yesterday and plan on getting a start this afternoon after work. I CAN'T WAIT!!!!!!

Menzerna Super Finish PO106FA 16 oz

Menzerna PO203S Power Finish 16 oz

The Uber Porter Cable 7424XP Orbital Polisher Base Kit
Pad 1 : Yellow - Compound
Pad 2: Yellow - Compound
Pad 3: Green - Polish
Pad 4: Green - Polish

He also recommended a black or blue pad too, but I haven't bought those yet.
 
Sweet! Remember to take your time while polishing. Move the polisher very slowly (about an inch per second). Also, take a sharpie and draw a single radius on the top of the backing plate. Never put more downward pressure than what it takes to make the pad spin at about 1 rotation per second. You can't really tell how fast it's spinning unless you put that mark on the backing plate.

Also, work small sections at a time. I normally work areas 2' x 2' or less.

Start with Power finish on the green pad. If that does not remove enough imperfections for you, use the power finish on the yellow pad. That's going to be the most aggressive combo in your arsenal.
 
detailing terms confuse me alot, so how exactly does this go:

1. bug + tar remover
2. wash
3. clay bar
4. polish
5. wax
6. beer

is that right?
 
Oversimplified, but yeah, that's about it.

Wash (includes pretreatments like bug& tar remover, citrus degreaser, etc.)
IPA wipedown
Clay
IPA wipedown
Tape (tape off all badges, trim, etc. anything that's not paint)
Polish (this is the meat and potatoes of detailing. This is where you actually remove the paint imperfections. This step also takes the longest. About 6 hours per trip around the car)
IPA wipedown
Glaze
Sealant Wax
Beer
 
pektel said:
Oversimplified, but yeah, that's about it.

Wash (includes pretreatments like bug& tar remover, citrus degreaser, etc.)
IPA wipedown
Clay
IPA wipedown
Tape (tape off all badges, trim, etc. anything that's not paint)
Polish (this is the meat and potatoes of detailing. This is where you actually remove the paint imperfections. This step also takes the longest. About 6 hours per trip around the car)
IPA wipedown
Glaze
Sealant Wax
Beer
Click to expand...

that six hours in the middle is really killing me lol, but i'm jealous of these pics, i think i'll go wash mine and find an empty street :D
 
You think that's bad? On the impala I did, that step took me between 20 and 25 hours.
 
its not that bad compared to the impala, but i just like to wash, clay bar, and wax, even though i probably should get all the scratches taken out, but your too far for me lol
 
OK boys and girls. I just finished the deck lid. While the shine, depth and clarity are outstanding, I found out the paint was in waaaay worse shape than I thought! There are scratches everywhere along the edges; and they are deep! I filled the scratches as best I could with touch-up paint and let it dry. I then wet-sanded it down with 2000 grit paper. I used the cutting polish and yellow pad and went over it like crazy! It looks 100X better, but at the right angles under florescent light they are more obvious. I think in sunlight it will look pretty good. I may end up having to have the deck lid repainted later on.


So, WARNING!! While the results on good paint will be outstanding, the results on older, "abused" paint may not be so bueno.

That said, maybe I need a pro and/or some more aggressive products.

THANKS again, Pete! The rest of the paint is in much better shape and I think I will be more than pleased when I'm done!
 
wondering.. how would these wheels look on a darker color car? Ive only seen them on baby blue, white, silver.. what about black/dark red? Just curious..
 
Only me, that guy on the black 06 and Lito LS have these wheels. These wheels will make any LS stand out. Especially if lowered and correctly spaced out.
 
LS4me said:
OK boys and girls. I just finished the deck lid. While the shine, depth and clarity are outstanding, I found out the paint was in waaaay worse shape than I thought! There are scratches everywhere along the edges; and they are deep! I filled the scratches as best I could with touch-up paint and let it dry. I then wet-sanded it down with 2000 grit paper. I used the cutting polish and yellow pad and went over it like crazy! It looks 100X better, but at the right angles under florescent light they are more obvious. I think in sunlight it will look pretty good. I may end up having to have the deck lid repainted later on.


So, WARNING!! While the results on good paint will be outstanding, the results on older, "abused" paint may not be so bueno.

That said, maybe I need a pro and/or some more aggressive products.

THANKS again, Pete! The rest of the paint is in much better shape and I think I will be more than pleased when I'm done!
Click to expand...

good to hear you got some results from it! The porter cable is a capable machine, but does take longer to correct than a rotary. I've had to hit worse areas a few times to knock down some of the deeper imperfections. Power finish is a great medium polish, but it's not a heavy compound. Which is nice because there is minimal to no marring after using it, but sometimes you do need to step up to a compound to get the correction you seek. Problem with that is, how much clear coat are you willing to sacrifice on a daily driver? Sometimes it's just better to leave the deeper stuff so you can polish out finer swirls later on.
 
Thanks bears... Local guy here coped out on selling me those 20's I was gunning for and now a different guy has these vulcans for sale. around $500 without tires.. We shall see what kind of condition they are in!
 
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