What maintanence stuff am I missing?

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Battery

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Hey guys,
I'm planning to put the Mark in for some work in the next week or two. I want to get all the parts replaces that are going or will go soon. I'm putting together a list and would like you guys to let me know if I should add or change anything.
I have about 147,000 on the car right now.

I have already done these myself:
New front bags
New rear shocks.
New plugs and wires
New trans, fuel, and air filters
New PCV valve
J-mod

I'm asking the guy at the shop to do the following:
Change the oil filter adapter gasket
Change the IAC
Possibly change the fuel pump (might do it myself based on what he asks)
Change the thermostat
Change the O2 Sensors

Please let me know if I'm missing anything that may go soon. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
Battery said:
Hey guys,
I'm planning to put the Mark in for some work in the next week or two. I want to get all the parts replaces that are going or will go soon. I'm putting together a list and would like you guys to let me know if I should add or change anything.
I have about 147,000 on the car right now.

I have already done these myself:
New front bags
New rear shocks.
New plugs and wires
New trans, fuel, and air filters
New PCV valve
J-mod

I'm asking the guy at the shop to do the following:
Change the oil filter adapter gasket
Change the IAC
Possibly change the fuel pump (might do it myself based on what he asks)
Change the thermostat
Change the O2 Sensors

Please let me know if I'm missing anything that may go soon. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Change the TPS
Change the EGR valve
Change the idler pulley
Change the belt
Clean the MAF
Change your brakes

Also, what you're asking the guy at the shop to do, you could do yourself easier than the other things you have already done. Use OEM parts whenever possible, especially the 02's, TPS & IAC. By all means, leave injectors alone. Let your man at the shop mess with those if they ever need to be replaced.
 
Forgot to mention that I have new brakes, a new belt, and cleaned the maf. Thanks for the input though.
 
Last edited:
Anyone have any guides for doing the TPS, IAC, or EGR valve? I hate not being able to search for words less than four letters....
 
nolimit94VIII said:
Also, what you're asking the guy at the shop to do, you could do yourself easier than the other things you have already done..
Click to expand...


when asked what to do?

I was gonna say "grow some nuts and finish working on the car"

some of the stuff he's already done has a greater difficulty level than stuff he's getting ready to pay someone WAY TOO MUCH to do for him.

Dont be a puss...MAN UP...

now that might be a little harsh, but its the truth.

if you Jmodded your trans, you definately have the skill do do ANY of the other items you have listed, dont sell yourself short.

I know some of this stuff is kinda intimidating, just take your time..and enjoy the money you saved.

they are gonna wanna RAPE you on the fuel pump..and the oil filter adapter gasket.

just the adapter gasket is 140.00 in labor, from a "good reasonable shop" around here. They wont TOUCH it for less than 2 hours labor, when it's a 40 minute to an hour job.

AND... I wouldn't want to trust "some shop" to properly refill the mark 8 cooling system.
IF they dont do it right, they could easily pop a headgasket for you.

OF course they would be liable and would have to replace it.
But.. if they cant properly burp and fill the cooling system, I wouldn't want them to even attempt to "take the head" off this car.
 
Battery said:
Anyone have any guides for doing the TPS, IAC, or EGR valve? I hate not being able to search for words less than four letters....
Click to expand...

For the TPS and IAC, remove the wiper blade on the passengers side, take the screws out of the cowl and pull it up out of the way. This will allow you to get the intake tube off easier and allow you to get to the parts that you're going to change, easier.

You'll need a new TB gasket, IAC & gasket and a TPS. The TB is held on with four 8mm bolts. Once their loose, reach behind the TB as you're pulling it up and get the plug loose from the TPS. Also, before you remove the TB, there are two bolts that hold the linkage in place. Take those off so that the TB will pull up and be able to lay across the intake.

Two phillips head screws holds the TPS on. Very simple to change out. The IAC is a bit harder and it's also held on with two 7 or 8 mm bolts. I use a flexible extension to get to the bolts. It needs to have some length to it to make it a lot easier. One of the bolts is fairly long but you'll get it. Make sure you put the new gasket on it before putting the new one on. Once you have it swapped out, plug it up and then start getting your TB back in place with it's new gasket. Keeping the gasket straight and lined up is annoying but just make sure not to drop anything down in the intake. It should be covered with a clean rag during all your work, until you are putting it back on. DO NOT FORGET TO PLUG THE NEW TPS IN BEFORE BOLTING DOWN THE TB.

Once it's bolted back down, then put your two linkage bolts back in place to hold your throttle cables and that part is done. Get the intake tube back on and then the cowl and then the wiper blade.

As for the EGR vavle, that's something I wouldn't even mess with. It is way the hell back there. I saw my bolts to it real good while under the car with the transmission out.
 
nolimit94VIII said:
As for the EGR vavle, that's something I wouldn't even mess with. It is way the hell back there. I saw my bolts to it real good while under the car with the transmission out.
Click to expand...

So the EGR valve you would recommend saving for the shop or just leaving?
 
poniesviii said:
Try "replace TPS" "replace IAC" or "TPS sensor" "IAC sensor"
Click to expand...

When quoting "IAC sensor" and "TPS sensor", the results are the exact same as just searching for sensor. Likewise searching for "replace IAC" and "replace TPS" give me the results for the word replace. Together it nets over 800 threads, most of which are irrelevant.
 
Battery said:
So the EGR valve you would recommend saving for the shop or just leaving?
Click to expand...
I had an easier time working on the EGR components than the IAC. Give it a shot before you pay someone else to go after it.
 
JMiles_T said:
I had an easier time working on the EGR components than the IAC. Give it a shot before you pay someone else to go after it.
Click to expand...

Can anyone give me an idea of where this thing is? A pic would be great but I'd take a description.
 
I wouldn't bother changing the IAC or the EGR valve unless I knew they were bad. My 205K mile red 94 rusted out bad enough for me to take it off the road, and those parts still work fine.

How are the front suspension parts?
 
billcu said:
I wouldn't bother changing the IAC or the EGR valve unless I knew they were bad. My 205K mile red 94 rusted out bad enough for me to take it off the road, and those parts still work fine.

How are the front suspension parts?
Click to expand...

New control arms and bags. Anything else is original.
 
My '96 now has 191k on the odometer.

Besides air bags I've had to replace the idler pulley, A/C pulley and clutch, water pump, headlamp units, wheels ( they corroded and started leaking air), rehang the headliner, O2 sensors, radiator cooling fan, oil pan gasket, and rack and pinion unit.

Not bad for a car that's been driven hard and is still a daily driver. It's been a much better vehicle than my wifes MB CLK500. I'd love to find another low milage Mark VIII !!!!!!
 
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