2 kinetik 1800 for my sound system

djknowledge

djknowledge

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what would i need to do to wire these to batteries to the car charging system. would it damage the charging system if its mroe then the rec 650 cca? is there a way to just give the charging system 650 cca? would battery isolatros come into play here and what about some splitters for the vent tubes. i checked the threads but nothing talks ab out these type of batteries just the optimum batteries or regular batteries.
 
the kinetic is the the same type of battery as the optima it is a sealed battery so it will not need vent tubes. You could use isolators. But your best bet is going to be to upgrade the alternator to a high amp unit because doing an isolator the alt will be working three times as hard as normal operation. How much power are you planing on running and what amps.
 
djknowledge said:
what would i need to do to wire these to batteries to the car charging system.
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all you need to do is ground all the batteries, and then run the power wire from the stock battery's positive terminal to both aux batteries positive terminals, if you want to use a battery isolator it will go inbetween the factory battery and the first of the two aux batteries on the +pos line, and then the amps will need to get connected the the aux batteries AFTER the isolator.

djknowledge said:
would it damage the charging system if its mroe then the rec 650 cca?
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i'm not going to get into a nother discussion about batteries vs alts again, but i will say that I BELIEVE that adding extra batteries with out upgrading the alternator will put extra stress (above what the sound system will do) on the stock alternator and cause it to burn up quicker



djknowledge said:
is there a way to just give the charging system 650 cca? would battery isolatros come into play here and
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the charging system is where the power comes from (alternator), the isolator just keeps power going from the alt to the batt and not allowing it to go back to the car, so if you have an isolator the stock battery will be the only battery that powers the car (unless switched over to allow power to flow both directions of course)

djknowledge said:
what about some splitters for the vent tubes. i checked the threads but nothing talks ab out these type of batteries just the optimum batteries or regular batteries.
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just about all batteries need to vent in emergency situations (i do not know for sure about kinetik's) but i would not reccomend having a battery that *could vent* not being able too, as far as venting goes you could always get a battery box (like the kind that they make for track cars) because they usually have there own vent system plus they would give you a mounting solution for the new batteries.

if you dont mind me asking, why three batteries (one of which being stock) it would be cheaper, and a lot easier to get one larger battery, and replace the factory batt with it, not to mention the amount of space and weight saved.
 
kylecm85 said:
the kinetic is the the same type of battery as the optima it is a sealed battery so it will not need vent tubes. You could use isolators. But your best bet is going to be to upgrade the alternator to a high amp unit because doing an isolator the alt will be working three times as hard as normal operation. How much power are you planing on running and what amps.
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optima's do have vent tubes (you can see them on the top with plugs in them) and they will vent under certain circumstance's.

+1 on the alt
 
already got a 300 amp alternator on the way. cost me 460 but its like the only one i could find for a 2003 lincoln ls. i have 4 amps but am going to run another amp so i will have 4 total. 2 1200 rms for subs, 2 400 rms for voice. battery finally died on me so i am going to end up replacing them withe the kinetiks. even the kinetiks have vents so im thinking of just gettin the biggest battery i could fit in there. i might just take out that spare tire and build an amp rack in there but i dont know where to start. so for now im just going to have one kinetik starting the car and one for the amps, i never said i was going to have 3.
 
You'll need to run an additional power cable from the new alternator all the way to the battery. Also an additional or bigger ground cable to the engine.
 
Right, but you never said you were removing the stock one either. So one would assume that you would have 3 total.

Good idea upgrading your alt if you are going to be adding batteries. The LS electrical system is pretty picky, and seems to be running the alt at damn near it's max capacity (at least putting enough load on it to not allow an extra battery to be charged.)

Are you upgrading the wiring between alt/battery and the grounds to allow that power through?
 
Wow, me and joegr were on that at the same time.
 
I emailed Kinetic about the venting issue and they said the batteries dont vent and are good for cabin applications.
 
I assumed since you said adding 2 hc 1800's that you where keeping the factory battery also. I meant the kinetics and optimas are considerd a sealed battery or gel cell and do not vent like a lead acid battery will if you where to just stick it n the truck of your car. That is why these types of batterys are used in car audio. So that you can place them pretty much anywhere and not have to worry about them. What is the name brand of the alt you are getting and does it come with a birth sheet that will tell you what it does at each rpm range. Most not all aftermarket alternators will not make alot of power unless you spin them high.
 
yea i heard about some ho alternators only making the power at higher rpms and not so much at idle. ill email the guy and let you know.r u guys sure about that non venting thing? isnt it non venting under normal charging circumstances? id rather not find out the hard way, being that i probably wont hear the explosion since ill have my music blasting but i probably will feel it. lol? can you forward me that email if you dont mind?
 
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i promise the battery wll not explode in the trunk. I have put many kinetic and optimas in trunks and never had a problem out of them. Also remember the alt rpm is diffrent than engine rpm. Usally if your car idles at 500 the alt is turning between 1500 and 2000 rpms. If that is the chart for your alt then it will have a pretty flat curve which is good.
 
Also if you want alot more indepth help go to stevemeadedesigns.com agnd go to the forum and search there they have alot of great threads on things like this.
 
djknowledge said:
yea i heard about some ho alternators only making the power at higher rpms and not so much at idle. ill email the guy and let you know.r u guys sure about that non venting thing? isnt it non venting under normal charging circumstances? id rather not find out the hard way, being that i probably wont hear the explosion since ill have my music blasting but i probably will feel it. lol? can you forward me that email if you dont mind?
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I deleted it sorry. I emailed them about a month ago. I even told pektel about it, ask him if you want to confirm, if he even remembers. But the guy emailed me back that they were safe for cabin applications and I could leave the vent hole in the trunk If I wanted but didn't needed. That the batteries were safe and didn't vent. Actually he said they vent so little its consedered not venting. Its like a 0.0000000001 percent. He said it was very very minimal and it was good for cabin application, if its safe for the cabin Its should be good for the trunk too. Also, andrizzle ran 4 kinetics inside his car in his competition car. He;s done 4 with no problem. You can email kinetic if you want to comfirm yourself


richs@kinetikaudio.com

http://www.kinetikaudio.com/2009/contact.asp
 
Off the top of anyone's head......What gauge positive battery cable runs from the Alternator back to the battery? Is it 4 gauge already(doubt it with my luck but can't hurt to ask anyway). And what path does the cable take? Under the car or is the carpet coming up? About to do the Big 3.

Thanks.
 
Don't remove it. Just add additional wire. Where it runs, I am unsure of, but you do not need to remove it.

I would run 0/1 gauge in addition to the stock wiring already in place.
 
This is where it gets interesting....dbelectrical(where the 200 amp alternator came from said that 4 gauge will suffice for the run)....thus the question if it's 4 gauge already there. I had considered going up to 0/1 gauge regardless. Just wanted to know if anyone knew for sure how it ran to the trunk in order to find the path of "least resistance"...lol. I had to pun it. ;)


Andrizzle said:
Don't remove it. Just add additional wire. Where it runs, I am unsure of, but you do not need to remove it.

I would run 0/1 gauge in addition to the stock wiring already in place.
Click to expand...
 
never tried the term yet, but i have to replace the temp box i put my subs in. i crammed em in a box for now but they sound like :q:q:q:q to me. everyone is like wow it sounds badass but im like yea thats cuz you never heard them in the right box( 5 cubic ft vented tuned to around 34hz) im gettin a box custom made to fit in the ls and then wem will c what my babies can do.
 
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