? for the car audio buffs

well ill take pics tomarrow of what im describing if need be but i cut the locations where the stock 6x9s go out and wrapped some 6x9 grills i had laying around in tan grill cloth and secured them over the holes. then i took that piece where the arm rest folds down and cut a square out of it then wrapped it in grill cloth and replaced it. now there is nothing stopping the sound from my trunk from coming into the cabin. it sounds like im driving all the time with my rear seats down, but without the ugliness and seats are still useable. if you want pics just let me know. and you would need a real custom box if you wanna port it threw the decklid because if you dont do it just right the port will cancel out the subwoofer and it will just sound gross. put your seats down and listen to ur music and if you like the output do the steps i described above and you will be satisfied"for awhile as there is never enough"
 
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Okay first:

Do NOT buy from dealercostaudio. google their name and you will get hundreds of hits of scamming and complaints.

Secondly: That W7 is overpriced ludacris. JL has nice stuff, W7 included, but it is not worth what you pay, 400 dollars on a mainstream 10"? puh lease.

I would take an underground company for half that price and get hell of a lot more out of my money. It sounds like you're not really looking to upgrade to a nice system just yet, but when you are, you should check out some of the real car audio buff's forums: www.caraudio.com and www.ecoustics.com are both nice sites where alot of people will help you out. I started my car audio hobby @ Ecoustics in the forum's subwoofer forum and have been an audio head ever since. The place is great as it is not too cluttered with garbage, like caraudio.com.
 
I'm going to add dynamat to the inside of my trunk.
Subs keep popping the trunk lid open.
I like the old school rockford amps.
They're small in size put out lots of power and sound 10% better than say my kenwood 500 watt I have in my Camaro.
I built a custom 3.7 cu/ft box that also holds the amps and cap.
It's big but because it's slanted, it has a minimal loss of trunk space.
The RF 1000 watt mono amp toasted my audiobahns so for 350.00 shipped I got a pair of Cadence single 4 ohm coil 35lb subs that can easily handle 1000 watts continuous rms each at 2 ohms.
I,ve added 4 12 volt computer fans on metal brackets to cool my setup.
I can control the 4 amps levels and eq's from the dash and mix it up however I want it.
I like having the old school 3 way setup with an extra amp to power the Bass Shakers under the seats.

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Is it wise to run 4 ohm subs at a 2 ohm load?

And link to where you got those for 350 shipped per pair?

How is the SQ?
 
And gixxerboi, I really may think about doing something to open up to the cabin by way of the rear shelf. My son's car seat sits in the center in the back seat (the safest place in a collision), so I wouldn't be able to use that area behind the arm rest to my advantage.

I'm thinking maybe cutting the holes, then reupholstering the rear shelf, with a couple supports or something. Don't know if I want to use speaker grilles in the rear shelf.
 
04SCTLS, I just read a suggestion yesterday about your trunk issue. Adjust your latch so it closes tighter. I believe the post I read said you can adjust it about 1/8". Should do the trick.
 
i know a guy who has a bravox 10 in his car and it is quite possibly the loudest thing i have ever heard. awesome sub but i think they are kind of spendy. this is what it looks like. any of you guys ever used any of there stuff?
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04SCTLS, I just read a suggestion yesterday about your trunk issue. Adjust your latch so it closes tighter. I believe the post I read said you can adjust it about 1/8". Should do the trick.

Ha Ha
That was me in the other thread saying you can tighten the latch 1/8 inch.
Even after tightening it down the 1/8 inch it's still poping open after 10-15 min of play so I can:

1. take the top latch out and ovalize the holes then remount it canted to one side so the hook is more curved around the pin if you follow me.

2. Take the bottom latch out and ovalize those holes so it closes even further.

3. Get some Home Depot 1/4 inch weatherstrip on a roll and apply it to the underside of the trunklid where it meets the gasket.

I think I'm going to do the first one because I suspect the latch is slipping past the pin because of the pounding.

Here's the link for the Cadences
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390105100944&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
 
Is it wise to run 4 ohm subs at a 2 ohm load?

2 4 ohm single coil speakers in parallel are 2 ohms.

The Rockford 1000.1 is rated a conservative 1000 watts rms at 2 ohms.
Most subs are 2 4 ohm coils so if you parallel them you get 2 ohms.
This is fine for running a single sub.

But if you have 2 of them you get 1 ohm in parallel or 4 ohms in series.
I had my Audiobahns at 1 ohm and they toasted.

My EQ and crossover add another 12-15 db so I'm putting out lots more than 1000 rms, probably 12-1300.
I specifically bought speakers with single 4 ohm coils rated to take 1000 watts rms each so they would be 2 ohms resistance in parallel for the amp.
 
Those Sonances are great pektal.

Glad you found an underground brand to look into rather than the mainstream overpriced junk.
 
you think thats a good price? and i was thinking about maybe sticking with one 12, just building a proper enclosure.

thoughts?
 
i have been pretty impressed with what i.ve read too. they are also having a helluva deal on a 2800w (at 14.4v) amp. 349 shipped. i can.t remember the model name, but it.s a presale so they are not on the site yet.
 

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