Check Engine Light

Lucky_Ls

Lucky_Ls

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My Fu*king check engine light came on... It don't have the shakes or no loss of power I have no idea what it can be?!?! One thing after the other, I'm telling ya!
Sorry just venting...:mad:
 
Yeah, all the AutoZones are closed around here right now... I'm taking tomorrow off so I'll get it taken care of then.
 
Got it tested by AutoZone. O2 sensor numbers #1 and #2. Off the top or you guys heads what location are these located at?
Oh and the guy said that they were around $45 each (same type sensor appearently)... And that the car would run rich until I get it fixed. I was thinking about waiting until I get paid next Friday is that too long to wait you think?
 
Lucky_Ls said:
Got it tested by AutoZone. O2 sensor numbers #1 and #2. Off the top or you guys heads what location are these located at?
Oh and the guy said that they were around $45 each (same type sensor appearently)... And that the car would run rich until I get it fixed. I was thinking about waiting until I get paid next Friday is that too long to wait you think?
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well you should have written the code down, for the o2 sensors, theres bank 1 and bank 2 and it could be the upstream or downstream, if its the up-streams, you should change as soon as possible because it will have some effect on the car, but if its the down-streams (after the cat) you should be fine until next friday, i dont know which sensor it could be, and they are about 50 bucks, easy to replace, takes about 15 minutes, if that, to make it easy on you, get the o2 sensor socket, and also turn the car on for 3 minutes before you take it off, to warm the metal and break any rust
 
Also, be aware that there is no code that says an oxygen sensor is bad. There are a number of different codes that say that the computer does not like what the O2 sensor is saying. Sometimes it is a bad O2 sensor, and sometimes it is something else that is wrong that the O2 sensor(s) are trying to tell you about.

The odds of two O2 sensors failing at the same time are less than the odds of some other single failure that two of the O2 sensors are detecting.
 
joegr said:
Also, be aware that there is no code that says an oxygen sensor is bad. There are a number of different codes that say that the computer does not like what the O2 sensor is saying. Sometimes it is a bad O2 sensor, and sometimes it is something else that is wrong that the O2 sensor(s) are trying to tell you about.

The odds of two O2 sensors failing at the same time are less than the odds of some other single failure that two of the O2 sensors are detecting.
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+1 Look under your hood. Check all your intake lines and hoses. You might have a vacum leak. then look to your Mass Air Flow senser. It may be defective. In order to really narrow things down, you should get the codes.
 
I had a really freak'n late day at work today but I went home and I was going to put back on my stock intake. Well I get home and pop the hood and wouldn't you know it the intake coupler was off from the air cleaner!!! Those bastards at the dealership didn't put it back together right! I've been driving like that since Friday... The check engine light is still on after I put back on the stock intake but I wonder if that may have given me a wrong error code on one of the O2 sensors or something?
 
Lucky_Ls said:
I had a really freak'n late day at work today but I went home and I was going to put back on my stock intake. Well I get home and pop the hood and wouldn't you know it the intake coupler was off from the air cleaner!!! Those bastards at the dealership didn't put it back together right! I've been driving like that since Friday... The check engine light is still on after I put back on the stock intake but I wonder if that may have given me a wrong error code on one of the O2 sensors or something?
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It didn't give you a wrong code. I'm sure it gave you the right codes. Autozone (and many others do too) jumped to the wrong conclusion based on the codes. I say again, the codes never tell you a particular part is bad. They tell you where to start the proper troubleshooting flow chart.

The light should clear after enough driving cycles.
 
joegr said:
It didn't give you a wrong code. I'm sure it gave you the right codes. Autozone (and many others do too) jumped to the wrong conclusion based on the codes. I say again, the codes never tell you a particular part is bad. They tell you where to start the proper troubleshooting flow chart.

The light should clear after enough driving cycles.
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So... You're saying to just drive it around as is and don't worry about replacing the O2 sensors?:confused:
 
Lucky_Ls said:
So... You're saying to just drive it around as is and don't worry about replacing the O2 sensors?:confused:
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Well, you did fix the air leak didn't you?
(If you had un-metered air going into the engine, it would cause lean O2 reading which would trigger lean O2 codes. Often people misinterpret these as meaning the O2 sensor(s) is/are bad. The reality is that the O2 sensors are doing there job correctly and pointing out that you have a problem. However, with many people the first step is to shoot the messenger, rather than to look for and fix the real problem.)

Why are you so convinced that you have bad O2 sensors?
 
Oh and there Upstream O2 sensors the guy at the dealership said. Another funny thing he said was if I buy the O2 sensors from the parts dept at the Ford/Lincoln dealership they'd be $109.71... each!:eek: I think the guy at AZ said they were like $45-$50 each. If I do replace these O2 sensors eventually is it a good idea to skip on the Ford brand and go with whatever brand AZ selling?
 
all O2 sensors are upstream.

the catalytic monitors are 'downstream' - meaning after the cats - they are used to measure the efficiency of the cats, although they are are type of O2 sensor they do not perform that role.
 
Get and post the actual OBD-II codes, and maybe we can help.
 
Since you probably fixed the problem go back to autozone and have them clear the codes. If the check engine light stays off then you're good.
 
rsimmons1 said:
Since you probably fixed the problem go back to autozone and have them clear the codes. If the check engine light stays off then you're good.
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Yeah, that's the plan after work today. Hopefully me putting back on the stock intake (after the dealership didn't put my CAI back on right!:mad: ) will fix the problem. I'm running without a file from my SCT at the moment anyway...
 
you can clear the code using the SCT or simply disconnect the battery for a bit.
 
Quik LS said:
all O2 sensors are upstream.

the catalytic monitors are 'downstream' - meaning after the cats - they are used to measure the efficiency of the cats, although they are are type of O2 sensor they do not perform that role.
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thanks quik, but the monitors is the same part as the o2 sensor though right lol
 
Quik LS said:
you can clear the code using the SCT or simply disconnect the battery for a bit.
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Lincoln Jealous said:
thanks quik, but the monitors is the same part as the o2 sensor though right lol
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LOL... Yeah I just got home and was about to go to AZ then I realized that the Xcal and clear codes. So I plugged it in and cleared the error code and no more check engine light!
 
Lincoln Jealous said:
thanks quik, but the monitors is the same part as the o2 sensor though right lol
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not correct.

Gen1
- pre-cat - MOTORCRAFT Part # DY1039 {#5C5Z9F472AA}
XC2F-9F472AA
- post-cat - MOTORCRAFT Part # DY1034 {#5W6Z9G444BA, DY1013}
XR3F-9G444BA

Gen2
- pre-cat - MOTORCRAFT Part # DY1039 {#5C5Z9F472AA}
XC2F-9F472AA
- post-cat - MOTORCRAFT Part # DY1038 {#5W6Z9G444AA}
XR3F-9G444AA

now can you buy the same sensor - cut off the pigtail and re-wire it? don't know - buy if it's the same price - why not buy the right one... I am assuming if they were identical - they would not have different part numbers.
 
Quik LS said:
not correct.

Gen1
- pre-cat - MOTORCRAFT Part # DY1039 {#5C5Z9F472AA}
XC2F-9F472AA
- post-cat - MOTORCRAFT Part # DY1034 {#5W6Z9G444BA, DY1013}
XR3F-9G444BA

Gen2
- pre-cat - MOTORCRAFT Part # DY1039 {#5C5Z9F472AA}
XC2F-9F472AA
- post-cat - MOTORCRAFT Part # DY1038 {#5W6Z9G444AA}
XR3F-9G444AA

now can you buy the same sensor - cut off the pigtail and re-wire it? don't know - buy if it's the same price - why not buy the right one... I am assuming if they were identical - they would not have different part numbers.
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i believe i was given the correct information from the scanner at the autostore, because they knew exactly which sensor/monitor it was from the code, i replaced the old one, and the light went away ?? the box said o2 sensor, but i replaced the one after the cat lol

3.JPG
 
TDUB said:
Buy a cel reader. I can't tell you how many times I've had to use mine with the LS.
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Couldnt agree more. I've used it on the LS a TON, my wife's car, my parents cars. I look at it as important as a screwdriver. I know that places like autozone will check them for free but its alot nicer to do it in your own driveway and they arent that expensive. Wally world sells decent basic readers for pretty cheap, allows you to find the DTC's and clear them.
 
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