Mod Grocery List Item #6 - Springs

Tru-Blu

Tru-Blu

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I know at least half of you guys have lowered your babies with aftermarket springs. And while I know that it makes the LS look 100% better in it stance, I'm wondering if the ride is going to be too harsh for me to eventually do this mod.

Like I've said in previous posts, I live in Michigan and driving there and in Toledo, OH the roads are pretty brutal. Would I be shortening the life of my suspension (and my back) by lowering the car?

NYC, you had the Eibach Pro kit, didn't you? If so, can you tell me how it changed the ride of your baby? I'm very curious on what you had to deal with for winter driving.

Anyone else want to chime in with their opinions and/or experiences with lowering? You southerners have a little less to worry about as you don't have the potholes and major fault cracks to deal with from all the temperature changes we have up here.

Thanks,

TRU - Mad Mod Researcher
 
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eibach pro should fit you fine then. There are subtle differences. Due to the progressive rate, they don't feel harsh until you push them, ie high speed turning etc. I'm from the northeast so I'm plenty familiar with frost heaves and poor roads. I have them with the euro shocks and it handles good without shaking your fillings loose. No issues with winter driving. sprints or intrax (had intrax on my t-bird) might be too low for a daily driver around here, especially if you have more than 2 people in the car.
 
I can tell you that at first, I loved the way the car handled and looked after lowering it with the Pro-Kit. Looked better once I got some 19s under it. But the roads here and on my way to work were getting under my skin with how the car rode. I felt every little bump and it was starting to wear on me.

To me, the car is not designed to be lowered only because of the way it absorbs bumps. You can get away with it in the South where the roads are awesome, but up and around this area, it's brutal.

Looks wise, I loved it. That's the only regret I have for pulling them out. Otherwise, the car rides like a dream now.
 
If I were to do some 18's or 19's with not quite as low profile, could that fill in some of the fender gap that shows with the factory 17" rims or would the gap just move with the rest of the car when the bigger rims are put on?

That was my main reason in getting the car lowered.

Thanks,

TRU
 
NYC LS8 said:
To me, the car is not designed to be lowered
Click to expand...

I talked to the head suspension designer (Jonathon Crocker, formerly of Michael Schumacher's team) and he said the optimum drop was 1/2". He said anything more would make the car tail-happy.

because of the way it absorbs bumps
Click to expand...

That was why it wasn't lower; for the suits at Lincoln that wanted a softer ride. Not that the LS is a land yacht by any means!
 
I can get a new Eibach Pro kit for about 215.00. Anyone want to chime in on whether or not it's worth it?

Is the Eibach kit the one that lowers the car the least? I've heard it's only an inch, but not sure.

HOW much is the ride gonna change in terms of bump absorption? Are we talking alot here? I know wheel upgrades would look a LOT better with the kit, but I don't want to sacrifice too much of the existing comfort to get it.

As always, your opinions are extremely valued!

TRU - "Springs" might be in the air (somebody please stop me)
 
To me the difference in bump absorption was felt more with a lower sidewall tire, than a lower ride height.

I had a 4.63" sidewall on the stock 235/50/17 setup. Right now on 245/35/19, the sidewall is 3.38"
 
It's more than an inch, IMO. Here's some before and after shots...

P1010039.jpg

Lowered.jpg
 
i have intrax lowereing springs and i cut a coil off them to lower more. my ride is great even with 19 inch wheels with low pro tires, and i have bad discs in my back, and a degenerative disc disease so if it were bad i would really notice. very sporty and comfy. unless your an old fart that wants a land yacht the ride will be fine. a lowered car is the only way to roll
 
I agree. It's not harsh at all. I don't mind it on road trips.

I won't pic whore my car again. Open up pretty much any other thread, and you'll see a pic of it I'm sure :D
 
- BANG! -

Just pulled the trigger on the Eibach kit. Hopefully it's not too much of a bear to install. I'll need to borrow a spring compressor, but that's easily done.

Any tips or advice on the install?

Thanks,

TRU
 
Yes, mark one of the bolts where it comes through the top of the tower for reference. There are 4 bolts. Mark 1 and it's location. Makes it a lot easier when you're putting everything back in.
 
pektel said:
Yes, mark one of the bolts where it comes through the top of the tower for reference. There are 4 bolts. Mark 1 and it's location. Makes it a lot easier when you're putting everything back in.
Click to expand...

+1, I marked the inner bolt on both sides with a red paint marker. You should mark the mount on top and the perch on the bottom also where the spring ends and make sure you align the new springs with it.
 
That kinda makes sense, and I'm sure it'll make more sense when I start tearing into it.

Did you guys do one or both of these after installing them?

1. Purchase and install the Eibach Camber Adjustment kit

2. Get a complete 4 wheel alignment

I'm also assuming that you guys haven't had any issue with springs sagging a lot more than initial settling, or negative camber issues with your rear wheels, correct?

I've done strut/spring replacements on other cars (last one was my regal). Anything funky I need to watch out for or keep in mind with the LS? I'm figuring this is an all-day Saturday job (or close).

Thanks,

TRU
 
Whoops, 2 more questions -

I've got a slight rattle-like noise that is either in the driver's side B pillar or rear door when going over bad bumps (so I don't hear it too often). Since the car is still under factory warranty, should I take it in to have that addressed before installing the springs?

My factory warranty is up next March. Should I wait to install these until the factory warranty is over, or will that not make any difference in regard to warranty work that is not suspension-related?

Thanks,

TRU
 
Tru-Blu said:
I've got a slight rattle-like noise that is either in the driver's side B pillar or rear door when going over bad bumps (so I don't hear it too often). Since the car is still under factory warranty, should I take it in to have that addressed before installing the springs?
Click to expand...
You too huh? I haven't had the time to look at that, but it is there when I cross the train tracks on the way to work.
 
I bet they wouldn't even notice the springs. especially if the noise is from inside the car.
 
A few more questions for the Eibach spring owners in preparation for when I receive mine:

1. I'm assuming the "Pro" part of the name indicates that these are progessive springs. Is this a correct assumption?

2. Using a spring compressor is a no-brainer, but did any of you choose or have to remove the tie rod ends or sway bar to do the fronts?

3. Did anyone choose to take apart the control arm in the rear as opposed to loosening/removing the shock bolts in the trunk?

4. If they are progressive springs, then I'm assuming that the new springs have to be compressed in getting them on (especially if no tie-rod ends removed). Is this a true statement?

Admittedly, I haven't looked at ANY part of this in relation to the LS - the trunk or ANY part of the suspension - front or rear yet so excuse these stupid questions if it will be glaringly obvious once I do have a look at things.

Thanks,

TRU - getting ready to "spring" into action (ok, no more - I promise)
 
They can only void a part under warranty if a aftermarket part caused the damage.
 
Right. So some things that would be voided would be:

ball joints, tie rods, steering rack, shocks, etc.
 
Can anyone help with the questions I asked in post #19?

So by Pek's reply, I'm pretty much saying bye-bye to what's left of the suspension warranty by putting the springs on?

Anybody else do this mod before their warranty was up, or am I the only rocket scientist trying to do so?

TRU - the warranty rocket scientist (not)
 
- shameful bump -

A few more questions for the Eibach spring owners in preparation for when I receive mine:

1. I'm assuming the "Pro" part of the name indicates that these are progessive springs. Is this a correct assumption?

2. Using a spring compressor is a no-brainer, but did any of you choose or have to remove the tie rod ends or sway bar to do the fronts?

3. Did anyone choose to take apart the control arm in the rear as opposed to loosening/removing the shock bolts in the trunk?

4. If they are progressive springs, then I'm assuming that the new springs have to be compressed in getting them on (especially if no tie-rod ends removed). Is this a true statement?

Admittedly, I haven't looked at ANY part of this in relation to the LS - the trunk or ANY part of the suspension - front or rear yet so excuse these stupid questions if it will be glaringly obvious once I do have a look at things.

Thanks,

TRU - getting ready to "spring" into action (ok, no more - I promise)
 
Tru-Blu said:
That kinda makes sense, and I'm sure it'll make more sense when I start tearing into it.

Did you guys do one or both of these after installing them?

1. Purchase and install the Eibach Camber Adjustment kit

2. Get a complete 4 wheel alignment

I'm also assuming that you guys haven't had any issue with springs sagging a lot more than initial settling, or negative camber issues with your rear wheels, correct?

I've done strut/spring replacements on other cars (last one was my regal). Anything funky I need to watch out for or keep in mind with the LS? I'm figuring this is an all-day Saturday job (or close).

Thanks,

TRU
Click to expand...

From what I hear the camber kits are worthless. You dont gain much negative camber from a drop like this. The only issue would be if you were slightly out of alignment specs to begin with. You will still be in the green on the test after lowering with the Eibachs otherwise.


With the right tools on hand its abut a 2-3 hour job if you go at it non stop.
 
Ok, right tools - spring compressor is one of them. Do I need a ball joint fork or tie rod end separator too? That's why I was asking the other questions - did people just loosen the shock bolts at the tops of the towers to get the springs out or did they take apart the lower control arm?

And the other questions too -
 
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