Bluetooth harness

There are two ways to wire the Parrot in.
The first way is to let the Parrot directly cut the speaker connections and take over the audio directly.
The second way is to not pass all the speaker connections through the Parrot, but to pipe the pre-amp level audio from the Parrot directly into the factory radio. The advantages of this second method are that there are no clicks when switching to/from the phone, and the volume control on the radio/nav unit controls the volume during calls. I wired mine this second way.

The harness you are looking at does it the first way mentioned. None-the-less, it should work.

This site has a harness for the second way.
http://www.quickconnectproducts.com/Find/find.php
The Ford QCFCSS-2P
It is more expensive ($60) so you may want to stay with what you have.
If you do go with the QCFCSS-2P, the harness as it comes causes some clicks on the audio when switching to/from the phone. They can be eliminated by rewiring it from the speaker level outputs to the line level outputs. I can give directions if you go this way.
 
It seems you know a lot about this install. If you're using the second method, wouldn't it require that the stereo have an aux input of some kind. How would the stereo know when to switch to the phone when a call comes in.
 
amagalla said:
It seems you know a lot about this install. If you're using the second method, wouldn't it require that the stereo have an aux input of some kind. How would the stereo know when to switch to the phone when a call comes in.
Click to expand...

Yes, the factory radios and factory nav have a specific phone audio input. The radio or nav displays "Phone" when in this mode. The factory nav also has some phone dialing voice commands and screens, but they can't be used with the Parrot, as it doesn't have a data command interface to the nav unit. I think the factory once offered cell phone adapters that did.
 
1LoudLS said:
that harness connect into the radio's audio input
Click to expand...

If you are talking about the harness that the OP posted, no it doesn't. You can tell because it doesn't have the smaller connector to the radio/nav that carries the phone audio input. It only has the main connector that has power, the phone mute, and speaker connections.
 
I just pulled the trigger on a ck3000. What do I need to know about rewiring the harness for line level input?

Tony
 
The QCFCSS-2P runs one of the speaker outputs to the phone audio input on the radio/nav. You need to cut those two wires, and use one pair of the line-level outputs instead. (Two pairs of line level outputs are provided, it doesn't make any difference which of the two you use.)
 
joegr said:
The QCFCSS-2P runs one of the speaker outputs to the phone audio input on the radio/nav. You need to cut those two wires, and use one pair of the line-level outputs instead. (Two pairs of line level outputs are provided, it doesn't make any difference which of the two you use.)
Click to expand...

We can talk later about what all needs to happen with the harness. I have no problems cutting and splicing the wires, but I guess I'll have to see the harness to understand what goes where.

Tony
 
joegr said:
The Ford QCFCSS-2P
It is more expensive ($60) so you may want to stay with what you have.
If you do go with the QCFCSS-2P, the harness as it comes causes some clicks on the audio when switching to/from the phone. They can be eliminated by rewiring it from the speaker level outputs to the line level outputs. I can give directions if you go this way.
Click to expand...

Well I'm getting the QCFCSS-2P in next week. What wiring changes do I need to make to the harness? I'm hoping to avoid the clicking you were talking about.
Thanks for your help.
Tony
 
I have a Parrot unit in my 08 F-450. It's spliced into the front speaker wires (takes over the speakers when in a call), but I don't hear any clicks or oddball noises.

ps. Yeah... It's a Dev phone. ;)

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