Took it to the track

Blenderhead said:
You can sensor lower the front end in less than 2 minutes. Just grab a 10mm wrench.
Click to expand...

quicker than that you can snap one of those crappy "pot metal" ball studs that the bolt goes on, especially when retightening them after sensor lowering the car.

They only need to be tight enough to "hold the sensor" in place, dont break one by trying to "overtighten" it.


I was amazed at how little force was needed to snap those bolts.

I broke one.. trying to loosen the nut due to all the dirt and crud in the threads {so I liberally lube/clean them now)

Then I broke one tightening it back up...they are S00per easy to break

you've been warned..lol
 
replace the weak balls that break with balls from an S-10 Blazer strut ball. HAHA mine broke for no good reason before I redid the air setup and a buddy came to rescue in an S10 blazer and I took his part. they ork amazingly well.
 
Maybe they were 11, I don't remember for sure.

Ok, grab 2 wrenches, one 10mm and one 11mm. Still, the concept of "finding the time to sensor lower it" doesn't stand. Heck, do it the next time you are filling the tank with gas, instead of just staring at the pump watching your wallet empty.
 
Blenderhead said:
Maybe they were 11, I don't remember for sure.

Ok, grab 2 wrenches, one 10mm and one 11mm. Still, the concept of "finding the time to sensor lower it" doesn't stand. Heck, do it the next time you are filling the tank with gas, instead of just staring at the pump watching your wallet empty.
Click to expand...

BUAHAHAHAHA thats what I did. easy as pie the front was tricker then the rear

For the rear I only used 1 bolt and moved the bracket down, the front took a little longer since we moved the bracket (I think Its been a while) and I dropped it about 3"
 
lol you guys are funny

i'll sensor lower it when i do the rear brakes, put royal purple in the diff, and some other stuff, i hardly have time to sleep
 
mafioso said:
replace the weak balls that break with balls from an S-10 Blazer strut ball.
Click to expand...


what strut on an S10, are you talking about the strut that holds the hood up?

that'd be a good find bro, as this is a common issue with the mark's
 
:p

Dude with the caddy just called me up steaming bitching i made it to the atco website and his caddy and the 12 second 240 didnt, guess the photographer just recognized sexy. :D


www.davemilcarek.com/092308/index_7.htm

CHEEEEEEEEEEEYAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHh

lincoln.gif


why the hell cant i edit a post?
 
I see the top light out on your side of the tree, while your opponent was "still staring at the green light".

you shoulda honked three times to let him know to GO!

Good job on "tree'in the crap outta him"!
 
If you look on the bottom of your timeslips..

is there a M.O.V. number?
that is "margin of victory"
or a four digit number that lookes somethng like

First - .1354 {these are random #'s)

Yours should be the "car that got there first, and by how much".

post em up if you can sort that data out.
 
actually the RT numbers weren't that great...
looks like a .600 and a .800 light (convering the .137 and .3sumthin) light.

.000 is perfect Also shown as .500

but if he cut a .137 light and it wasn't red that's the equivilant of a .637 light
 
NHLSV8 said:
he cut a .536..... on a .500 tree thats good
Click to expand...

he cut a .536 and a .137..
notice there wasn't a negative number on the .137, which indicates that he was running on an "LED tree" and a perfect light would have been .000 not .500.

a .536 on a .000 tree is not a good light.

had he been on an incandescent tree..and cut a .536 that would have been a good light, but the .137 would have been a "REDLIGHT"..

LED perfect light is .000
incadescent is .500
 
Yeh my r/t could use some work...i dont quite get it, on the second run i left as the 2nd light was going out and the 3rd yellow was going, on the first run i left as the last yellow was going out and the green was coming and still got a .347 on the second run leaving off the second yellow :confused:
 
Lux said:
i dont quite get it, on the second run i left as the 2nd light was going out and the 3rd yellow was going, on the first run i left as the last yellow was going out and the green was coming and still got a .347 on the second run leaving off the second yellow :confused:
Click to expand...


well since you didn't leave at the same time on both runs it makes it very difficult to tell you how to "do better".

you need more then 2 passes to get a handle on your RT.

the reason your two runs were so drastically different is because you were probably deeper staged on the first run than you were on the second run.

try this.. for starters.

put 45-50 lbs of pressure in your front tires {that will decrease the ROLL OUT) which will speed up your RT.

then you need to really REALLY concentrate on getting staged in the SAME SPOT in the starting beams.

After you "light the top light" STOP.
Then slowly "bump" the car with the brake, dont "roll" into the second beam.
"bumping the car with the brake" will let you move 1-2 inches at a time, rather than "rolling" into the beams which could alter your starting position by 2-6 inches..

Then you need to get 4-7 passes with the same reaction time...
be them .130 lights or .530 lights, it matters not... what you are working on is CONSISTANTLY getting the same RT's.

bring me 4-7 runs with the RT no more than .030 difference THEN we can get you some good instructions on how to lower your RT..consistancy is the KEY.

keep in mind that between daylight and dark the light will appear quicker as the night rolls on.. so a .030 light in the daylight will be a .000 light in the dark.

IF I am cutting .030-.040 lights in the dayllight I wont change anything because I know I will lose .030 or so once darkness falls

cliff notes
Pump up the front tires
stage in the same place on all runs
get more seat time at the track.

here's a tip..
when you aren't running, walk over to where you can "see the tree" and just watch the bulbs..so you can "get in the groove".

also..never NEVER leave on a light being OFF... that is "guessing".
you always want to "react" to a light being ON.. and "dont anticipate" the tree.

What I do.. is after I get fully staged, I ignore the top two yellow lights and FOCUS on the third amber... once I SEE the third amber I "leave".

Do not "watch the tree countdown"..that will make you "anticipate" when the third amber burns and you'll again be "guessing" and you wont have any "consistant data" to use to get your RT's better.

focus on the third amber..leave when you see the third amber burn.

now.. this might not improve your RT's but they will get more consistant.
Once you get consistant RT's then you can work on improving them.

sounds confusing.. I know.. but the above is the "first step" in getting a handle on your RT's.

...hope this helps.

Tommy
 
XLRVIII said:
well since you didn't leave at the same time on both runs it makes it very difficult to tell you how to "do better".

you need more then 2 passes to get a handle on your RT.

the reason your two runs were so drastically different is because you were probably deeper staged on the first run than you were on the second run.

try this.. for starters.

put 45-50 lbs of pressure in your front tires {that will decrease the ROLL OUT) which will speed up your RT.

then you need to really REALLY concentrate on getting staged in the SAME SPOT in the starting beams.

After you "light the top light" STOP.
Then slowly "bump" the car with the brake, dont "roll" into the second beam.
"bumping the car with the brake" will let you move 1-2 inches at a time, rather than "rolling" into the beams which could alter your starting position by 2-6 inches..

Then you need to get 4-7 passes with the same reaction time...
be them .130 lights or .530 lights, it matters not... what you are working on is CONSISTANTLY getting the same RT's.

bring me 4-7 runs with the RT no more than .030 difference THEN we can get you some good instructions on how to lower your RT..consistancy is the KEY.

keep in mind that between daylight and dark the light will appear quicker as the night rolls on.. so a .030 light in the daylight will be a .000 light in the dark.

IF I am cutting .030-.040 lights in the dayllight I wont change anything because I know I will lose .030 or so once darkness falls
Click to expand...

I'll respond to the rest in a minute. I staged shallow on both runs, barely illuminating the second light by using the brake...couldnt of been any shallower and the exact same spot both times, same lane, just left earlier on the second run. I dont know if you saw where i said, i was being easy on it the first run to see how it would hook up, i rolled out on the throttle on the first run instead of matting it to the floor.

What you say makes perfect sense as far as getting more runs back to back to zero in on r/t problems. Why the fast et in the dark, easier for your eyes to see the lights?
 
XLRVIII said:
well since you didn't leave at the same time on both runs it makes it very difficult to tell you how to "do better".

you need more then 2 passes to get a handle on your RT.

the reason your two runs were so drastically different is because you were probably deeper staged on the first run than you were on the second run.

try this.. for starters.

put 45-50 lbs of pressure in your front tires {that will decrease the ROLL OUT) which will speed up your RT.

then you need to really REALLY concentrate on getting staged in the SAME SPOT in the starting beams.

After you "light the top light" STOP.
Then slowly "bump" the car with the brake, dont "roll" into the second beam.
"bumping the car with the brake" will let you move 1-2 inches at a time, rather than "rolling" into the beams which could alter your starting position by 2-6 inches..

Then you need to get 4-7 passes with the same reaction time...
be them .130 lights or .530 lights, it matters not... what you are working on is CONSISTANTLY getting the same RT's.

bring me 4-7 runs with the RT no more than .030 difference THEN we can get you some good instructions on how to lower your RT..consistancy is the KEY.

keep in mind that between daylight and dark the light will appear quicker as the night rolls on.. so a .030 light in the daylight will be a .000 light in the dark.

IF I am cutting .030-.040 lights in the dayllight I wont change anything because I know I will lose .030 or so once darkness falls

cliff notes
Pump up the front tires
stage in the same place on all runs
get more seat time at the track.

here's a tip..
when you aren't running, walk over to where you can "see the tree" and just watch the bulbs..so you can "get in the groove".

also..never NEVER leave on a light being OFF... that is "guessing".
you always want to "react" to a light being ON.. and "dont anticipate" the tree.

What I do.. is after I get fully staged, I ignore the top two yellow lights and FOCUS on the third amber... once I SEE the third amber I "leave".

Do not "watch the tree countdown"..that will make you "anticipate" when the third amber burns and you'll again be "guessing" and you wont have any "consistant data" to use to get your RT's better.

focus on the third amber..leave when you see the third amber burn.

now.. this might not improve your RT's but they will get more consistant.
Once you get consistant RT's then you can work on improving them.

sounds confusing.. I know.. but the above is the "first step" in getting a handle on your RT's.

...hope this helps.

Tommy
Click to expand...

Great advice. :Beer
 
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