What if I messed up one of the j-mod holes...?

I just did my plate tonite. I can't answer if you will have problems or not, mine is actually off center a bit also, but should be fine. As far as hole#8 you have to look at the NOTE drawing and that shows you where it is.
 
I'm just worried that it might cause my trans to have issues.
 
I would go to a trans shop and get another plate....cannot buy them new with out a valvebody....way too much trouble to replace if it screws up.... IMHO

max
 
I dont think its worth the time & fluid to gamble with this one. I had a check ball wedged in a plate for who knows how long. Trans worked fine. As you can see, some of those holes are SMALL and only slight changes are made. Making a change to hole that was not suppose to have one could do nothing or lots.
 
Alright now this begs the question - is one year of plate better than another? I could also get a whole new valve body probably for not too much from the local JY. Should I look for one in particular? Maybe a truck VB? I know they probably have plenty of 4R70Ws there.

The only Trans Shop in town is AMMCO :(
 
Why not just get that wrong hole welded up and ground smooth in your existing plate. Then drill the hole in the correct spot. One hell of allot quicker and cheaper.
 
ILLS said:
Why not just get that wrong hole welded up and ground smooth in your existing plate. Then drill the hole in the correct spot. One hell of allot quicker and cheaper.
Click to expand...

I believe they use a small lead shot and hammer it flat into the hole, then file it down smooth..then redrill if needed.

I dont think you weld on that thin plate due to warping/thin metal plate welding issues.
 
I suppose i'll head over to AMMCO and see if they can do that...
 
unity said:
I dont think its worth the time & fluid to gamble with this one. I had a check ball wedged in a plate for who knows how long. Trans worked fine. As you can see, some of those holes are SMALL and only slight changes are made. Making a change to hole that was not suppose to have one could do nothing or lots.
Click to expand...

unity is correct, not worth the gamble.
not worth the expense of the fluid OR having to go back in there.. and without intimate knowledge of what "THAT HOLE" does you could easily SMOKE the tranny if it's bleeding off needed pressure to the clutches and such.
(clutches and such is a technical term) of course..(lol)
 
Yeah I'm not going to gamble with this. I can't have my Mark be a garage ornament - plus I miss driving it... my Focus isn't as fun.
 
wood_e said:
I suppose i'll head over to AMMCO and see if they can do that...
Click to expand...

I doubt they will...I would see about calling Max at Fivestar ford and getting a new seperator plate.
Or see if Lonnie at BOC has a modded one he will sell you {probably does)
 
If you try the JY approach to getting another plate..
you want to stick with the same model year and model as your car.

dont get a 98 plate and valve body because the alignment pins are different sizes and they wont work without significant work.
 
ditto on Lonnie, I know he or someone sells these plates ready to go in.
 
XLRVIII said:
I doubt they will...I would see about calling Max at Fivestar ford and getting a new seperator plate.
Or see if Lonnie at BOC has a modded one he will sell you {probably does)
Click to expand...

cannot buy them new with out a complete valvebody

A trans shop may have one they can sell/give ya

max
 
Take your gasket make the hole where you drilled it and check the gasket to the valve body and trans to make sure the new hole lines up with the chamber in the valve body and trans, I believe it should if its only 3mm off. On the later model 98 up there is a channel there.
 
XLRVIII said:
I believe they use a small lead shot and hammer it flat into the hole, then file it down smooth..then redrill if needed.

I dont think you weld on that thin plate due to warping/thin metal plate welding issues.
Click to expand...




You can weld thin plate; you just have to do it in a way so as to prevent warpage. If the proper technique is used then warpage will not occur. In addition to that it is a tiny hole and the arc will not be struck long enough or in a large enough area to have much time to create any kind of warpage anyway.
 
So here's the skinny on the situation now...

JY gives all their transmissions to AAMCO

AAMCO doesn't stock anything at their location -> give the distribution center a call

Called there and they don't sell the plate, just a VB to the tune of $200+

Guess I'll try BOC

Or maybe some JB weld of that quick repair stuff... KIDDING


Or am I...?
 
Do not use lead shot or weld to easy for things to break loose if its over a chamber, there is a lot of PSI in some parts.
Just check and see if the hole you drilled is in the proper chamber location in the valve body and trans.
 
Tiltedhalo said:
Do not use lead shot or weld to easy for things to break loose if its over a chamber, there is a lot of PSI in some parts.
Just check and see if the hole you drilled is in the proper chamber location in the valve body and trans.
Click to expand...

dont leave the hole there the factory moved this hole and enlarged it already

the previous owner of my tranny tired to install the be controls shift kit and drilled this hole they used brazing rod to fix it
 
Tiltedhalo said:
Do not use lead shot or weld to easy for things to break loose if its over a chamber, there is a lot of PSI in some parts.
Just check and see if the hole you drilled is in the proper chamber location in the valve body and trans.
Click to expand...



When someone who knows what they are dong welds it the weld and the immediate surrounding area will be stronger than the base metal itself. It will not break off. I really suggest you guys try knowing a little more about welding before assuming so many things in here. I am not talking about some farmer joe type welds, I am talking about a professional with a MIG or TIG welder doing it. I suggest TIG due to the controllability of it while striking the arc as well as manual fed filler metal. The fix would probably cost about $20 depending on who does the job. Grind down damn near flush with a 120 grit flapdisk and then use progressively finer sandpaper (by hand on a block) until it is flush with the surrounding area and just as smooth. It will stand up to more pressure than that VB can throw at it, will seal well, and is the cheapest and simplest fix for this guys situation.
 
ILLS, I did not mean that it cant be welded it can as a matter of fact I had to TIG a couple things on my valve body. I just had these horrific thoughts of someone hammering a lead shot in the valve body and hitting it with a butane torch, or heating it red hot and brazing it, or hitting it with a heavy arc rod at the local muffler shop.
 
I would take kids advice, go to the bone yard pull a VB for cheap.
My guess there is a pile of them.
I would do that before I would screw around welding it.
 
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