Alternator or voltage regulator?

Abbens

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Hello I have a 95 Mark8. for about 2 months or so only when driving at night and at idle my battery light would come on my dash and it was dim when I hit the gas it always went away. So I took out the dvom and at night time with everything on the voltage was 13.5. Now today during daytime driving the battery light is full on and not going anyway when I hit the gas . So on the way home I get the check charging system and the airbag light flashed a few times. I get home run the dvom and I was at 16volts at idle. Also if its the voltage regulator is that internal or external thanks.
 
I've had the battery light steady on at all times for over 6 months. My alt was replaced before this as well, so I'm not sure. I also heard that when you see that dreaded battery light your alt is on the way out. When I had my bad alt the battery light came on for 30 seconds, then check charging system error, and then 2 seconds later it died.
 
damn thats another reason why I am not even driving the car I do not want it to die on me. Yet it doesn't even show the signs of a bad alternator. Windows roll up fine, moon roof works, message center doesn't dim. But I know notice when turning on the car this evening I let it idle and the climate control showed some numbers. Yet the AC still works. I don't want to change out parts hence asking here thanks.
 
I just recently picked up something similar to this;

http://www.amazon.com/Vector-VEC008...3?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1218942156&sr=8-13

Edit: I just read that you got the check charging system, eeek. Also you already tested the voltage, hmm. 16 volts? That seems high? My system never goes over 14.8 volts, maybe I'm the one with the problem! The meter I have is nice because I can check it while driving.

Auto parts stores can check the system for you. I had them check mine for fun and they said my battery was fine. They then tried to sell me an alt as I was driving away!
 
16V is overcharging. The voltage regulator is internal of the alternator. Fix it soon or expect numerous problems.
 
If you put a new alt on. get the 96-98 cobra it is a 130 amp as where the stock lincoln is 120amp . I put the cobra alt on mine 3 weeks ago and it runs better stereo is louder ect...
 
well from reading all the posts it does seem that its the alternator and voltage regulator. Where would I find cobra alternator? I feel like I should just get one from an auto part store and have the mechanic change it out cause we do need to drive the car.
 
Just go to your local pep boys or o'rielys or whatever you guys got up there and get a factory replacement for an 96-98 cobra. its a very very easy change that takes basic tools. you willhave to cut the zip ties and the flex loom a little bit to get it to extend far enought to plug in. you will see once you get the new one bolted up.
 
or you can buy one o/e ford and be done with it. We only have a 12/12 warrenty but I do not think I have had to replace one in the years I have been doing this. P/n F6ZZ-10V346-BRM list is $226.85 +60.00 your cost is $163.33 plus the 60.00 core. Remember...i do not think it was said..the wiring will not quite reach and must be adjusted to the different "clocking" of the cobra alt.
Max
 
I got this one, 200 amp, you have to run a 4 gauge wire to the battery, but it cured my electrical problems and was only $214 delivered, no core. They also now sell a 220 amp for 40 bucks more.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Linc...006QQitemZ160264263293QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW


I'd be very careful with that Alternator, its a stocker with what looks like a smaller pulley.

Bad things happen to these alternators with an overdrive pulley trust me I know I've shelled out 4 of them.
 
alternator. the regulator is internal.

Exactly. The alternator's fine, but the regulator's prob bad. Which is built in, .. so, you have to replace the alternator in order to change out the regulator. Even though the alternator itself is ok.
 
I have had that 200 amp alternator on my mark now since last january, the pulley is the exact same size as the original alternator (I still have it, no core charge, remember?)-it also has a one year warranty. they are in tennessee, and from my experience (and their feedback) they are a quality operation.
 
well Im not stating that they are junk, My Alt from excessive Amperage was over driven to really crank out some amps, but in the end I paid the price, I granaded the armature a couple of times, due to the heat and the speed the alt was spinning at.

I think I may have a cooling issue, at idle and the temp needle pointing at M I can shoot the Alt, with a laser thermometer and get 220-240 dgrees F.

so when shifting at a High RPM, and the heat caused them to grenade on themselves.
 
Tensioner bolts

Do I have to remove the 3 bolts to remove the alternator belt? I have been reading that there is a 1/2 square hole where I can use the 1/2 breakerbar but I do not see that. I would not want to remove the bolts since they are on real tight and I would have to remove the radiator hose as well thanks.
 
Yea there is the belt tensioner, just below the alternator to the left(follow the belt from the alternator down). As you follow it down there is the idler pulley and then the belt tensioner with pulley on the end. On the tensioner there is the 1/2" square hole in the silver part of it, inbetween the pulley and the mounting bolts. Put a breaker bar in there and lift to relieve the tension.
 
I just found this photo of what the tensioner looks like, you can see the hole on it.

tens.JPG
 
Yea there is the belt tensioner, just below the alternator to the left(follow the belt from the alternator down). As you follow it down there is the idler pulley and then the belt tensioner with pulley on the end. On the tensioner there is the 1/2" square hole in the silver part of it, inbetween the pulley and the mounting bolts. Put a breaker bar in there and lift to relieve the tension.

lift? The breaker bar or tensioner tool should be rotated clockwise. (towards the driver side)
 
I did take a pic as well. and it does say lift on it.

IMAGE_119.jpg


IMAGE_120.jpg
 

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