Tools Needed

DSPENCER

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I Tore My Suspension Up From Driving It For So Long W/ My Airbags At %75 For So Long, I Found One At A Local U Pull And Pay Store Here In Orlando With A Pretty Good Set-up, My Question Is What Tools Will I Need To Take With Me In Order To Take All The Parts I Need, Upper/lower Ball Joints, Control Arm, Etc...
 
Upper control arm will be a pita. You have to be very careful with the driver's side as one of the nuts is located behind the master cylinder and you need to be careful around it. You need a long 18 mm ratcheted box wrench to get it off and you get to go at about one click at at time. That's the proper way. Take about an hour just for that nut. That's the only bad one.

If you are comfortable you can nock the flange off the bolt head that is up near the air bag and then put a ratchet on it and the job goes quick.

The passenger's side is much quicker.

Lowers are a lot easier but you will need a pickel fork to bang the ball joints loose.

Can't remember but I think the bolts are 18 mm down there also. You'll need 10 mm for the top bolts on the upper control arm. Can't remember the size of the not on the pinch bolt.
 
And oh yea.. Do i NEED a ball joint press in order to get them back on or is there something else i can use?
 
Be careful of old upper and LOWER ball joints - right Rich!

Best to use new arms if you are going through all this trouble, they are not that expensive.
 
Right... don't go to a bone yard for used control arms. You'll be doing the job again in about a year or less.. Or you'll be driving and oh know there goes my front end. Ball Joint can fall out.
 
Thank you for redeeming yourself Rich.


I would HATE to have to yell atcha for condoning putting bone yard control arms on an VIII. In all seriousness DSPENCER, Just go to advance, napa, or any other partshouse, and get a set of new units. It's NOT worth the headache and the potental for disaster.

They are'nt overly expensive, and you'll be ALOT safer.


Just remember to have it aligned afterwards.


Mike
 
Another thing to note-
When you price out new parts, remember to check the price for the same part on the '96 T-bird (except upper control arm, if you retained your air ride).
 
Another thing to note-
When you price out new parts, remember to check the price for the same part on the '96 T-bird (except upper control arm, if you retained your air ride).



Add even MORE to that, if your good with a welder you can use the tbird uppers too. Just cut the mounts for the oar ride off and weld them to the new units. Thats what Ive done with every Mark I've worked on. (alot)
 
Hey Mike I've been good since you have been gone. I picked up a wire welder, air compressor, still need to get a lift...

But yes lower control arms from a 96 T-Bird saves you $50 a side. If no air ride you'll save on the upper control arm also.

Oh and Mike I never use used control arms.. but my daughter found out what happens when one goes bad in a bad way. While driving home from work one day the driver's side ball joint fell out. Swapped out the control are on the road side. Lucky she was only 4 blocks from home. Luck she was driving in town. Lucky I just happened to have a control arm on the shelf.
 
NEVER, and I mean NEVER use junkyard suspension, it's just not worth the risk. If you can't afford the new control arms you shouldn't be driving.
 
I know you can just press in a new lower ball joint in the control arm. It was only 20 bucks from Napa, don't know what brand it was though.
 

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