Coils are starting to look better than air...

unity

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I give up! Im an advocate for original air setup. But yet again, its gets freezing cold and I blow the dryer right off the compressor... AGAIN!

It barely pumps up now and often errors out. Last year this happened twice, maybe three times. Somehow water is getting in my system, more than normal, and saturating the dryer silicate which then freezes solid.

At least I am not an expert at changing them and know how to do so quickly with taking little off to remove it.

Oh and yes I have a spider valve, this starting happening AFTER installing it! I need to examine the system and see where water could be getting in...
 
j

Do a coil over the value on the mark isnt high so keeping the air isnt gonna matter. The coil over is lovely rides like a dream and is tight as hell and has a beautiful stance. The only thing. Its easy to do yourself but only the shops that do it know the wire to cut to rid of the check air ride message do it do it do it you will be happy
 
My theory... once the air ride starts acting up and you are fixing it too much or the cost is going to be $200 or better.

Go to the springs... be done with the air ride...

Air ride is nice while it's working but once your car is over 100K.... you'll start getting the issues..

First a leaking bag... then the compressor will go... then the next back... Then....???

So.... do the springs .... Call Eddie and be done with it... You will know be disappointed..
 
I have coils on my 97, my parents 98 is still on air. I prefer the ride and simplicity of the coil spring setup. The air ride is nothing but a novelty to be honest since both cars are over 100k. Hell, I thought the air ride system rode pretty harsh.
 
you are all nuts... i put coilovers on my 93 after the air went... it sat real nice since i put the lowered set on..... but it was WAAAYYYY stiffer of a ride

im not saying air is better or worse ... but definitely softer ride...

only the shops that do it know the wire to cut to rid of the check air ride message

not true...

alarm module behind glove box.. grey connector..not black...dark green wire w/light green stripe...pin #12 on the back row...its between a brown wire w/pink stripe and an orange w/ light blue

cut that one and wrap a small piece of elec. tape around the end coming from the module .. the other end is dead

easy as pie...... whole conversion took me about 2 hours and 12 beers, during football.. haha
 
You can buy the spring setup for 4 wheels at $400, or redo the whole air setup- (front air bags, rear air bags, compressor ) for $650.00.

An extra $250.00 to have a new air system vs coils and people waver. People spend $3000 to PUT IN an air system.

I'll know it is you coil guys coming up behind me because you'll be ones with the headlights pointed annoyingly in the air with your tailpipe dragging the ground, all because you have 2 people in the back and a sub in the trunk. :rolleyes:

Like I've said before. Sell the Mark and buy a T-Bird.
 
is the wire the same color on the 95 i have to hit reset every time i get in the car. coilovers are cheap and easy but the air does pump its self back up which is nice. ive heard of truckers in extreme cold adding some kind of alcohol to their air brakes.i saw this on ice road truckers on the history channel. do some research maybe it will work for ya.;) ;) ;)
 
I should have added, the entire system is new! Well the compressor is from eddie and is about two years old. The only thing original is the rear bags, which leak a little. But the front struts were installed in spring, nice new Gen II set.
 
You can buy the spring setup for 4 wheels at $400, or redo the whole air setup- (front air bags, rear air bags, compressor ) for $650.00.

An extra $250.00 to have a new air system vs coils and people waver. People spend $3000 to PUT IN an air system.

I'll know it is you coil guys coming up behind me because you'll be ones with the headlights pointed annoyingly in the air with your tailpipe dragging the ground, all because you have 2 people in the back and a sub in the trunk. :rolleyes:

Like I've said before. Sell the Mark and buy a T-Bird.


I would have to strongly agree with you.:)
 
Unity- A leak in the rears is no better than a leak in the fronts. Remember there is only one ride height sensor there so what may seem like a small leak is possibly a larger leak as the compressor is working like hell to keep one side up.
Have you ever taken you dryer out and fully dried out the innerds. Is your Spider valve equipped with the drainable site bowls? Have you talked this problem thru with Eddie, whom is very responsive to our problems?
 
Its the original spider valve, not water separators on it. But the spider valve is after the dryer so I am not sure how much it would make a difference to upgrade. Besides, there is such thing as dry rot and taking too much moisture out. BUT, that not my problem at the moment :)

So I need to figure out were the water is getting in. I have dried out the silicate the first time. Then it saturated and blew off again. So I got a used one shipped fast and then a new OEM one. That was last year.

ANd last year, after putting the last one on I pulled the rubber "snorkel" looking tube from the compressor and tucked it into the intake box.

I can get new OEM dryers for $30 now, cheap, so I am going to get on and rout the compressor intake again. There MUST be water in the compressor intake system somewhere.

I guess at this point I will stick with air-ride since doing a swap during the cold winter would be a pain. :(

And yes I should get new rear bags and will do that soon, easy swap.
 
not true...

alarm module behind glove box.. grey connector..not black...dark green wire w/light green stripe...pin #12 on the back row...its between a brown wire w/pink stripe and an orange w/ light blue

cut that one and wrap a small piece of elec. tape around the end coming from the module .. the other end is dead

Be careful hear... my wire was green with a light green stripe. Also there is easy access below the glove box behind the kick pannel. Oh an on my 93 it was a slightly different color but located in the same place. I have a link to Eddie's page where he gives instruction on how to turn off the warning.

I'll know it is you coil guys coming up behind me because you'll be ones with the headlights pointed annoyingly in the air with your tailpipe dragging the ground, all because you have 2 people in the back and a sub in the trunk. :rolleyes:

Like I've said before. Sell the Mark and buy a T-Bird.

Ah... your just old and soft... you need the cushy ride...:p

Who drives their Mark VIII with 2 people in the back? Mines a two seater.. sports car..:D

is the wire the same color on the 95 i have to hit reset every time i get in the car. coilovers are cheap and easy but the air does pump its self back up which is nice. ive heard of truckers in extreme cold adding some kind of alcohol to their air brakes.i saw this on ice road truckers on the history channel. do some research maybe it will work for ya.;) ;) ;)

I haven't done a coil conversion on my 95 yet. So I'm not sure if the color is the same.

I should have added, the entire system is new! Well the compressor is from eddie and is about two years old. The only thing original is the rear bags, which leak a little. But the front struts were installed in spring, nice new Gen II set.

To reduce the cost Eddie will buy back your old stuff. Also... you'll make most of the conversion back selling it on eBay... I got over $150 for a set of rears, $100 for a compressor and I sold a set of fronts to a nice gentleman on LVC for $150 (I know I could have gotten more but I was helping the forum out).

I guess at this point I will stick with air-ride since doing a swap during the cold winter would be a pain. :(

And yes I should get new rear bags and will do that soon, easy swap.

What do you mean pain to replace. It's a 5 minute job.. LOL... A lot easier than swapping the fuel filter out with temps of only 15 degrees...
 
not true...

alarm module behind glove box.. grey connector..not black...dark green wire w/light green stripe...pin #12 on the back row...its between a brown wire w/pink stripe and an orange w/ light blue

cut that one and wrap a small piece of elec. tape around the end coming from the module .. the other end is dead

No :q:q:q:q. I know how to to the swap but the wires no. Thanks for maken me aware now i can go fix a couple cars and make a couple bucks
 
Be careful hear... my wire was green with a light green stripe.

is that not exactly what i described??... some may vary by slight different shades of green.. but you get the picture... no need to nit-pick

and i believe its the same on all gen1's.. not sure on gen2's but i would have to figure its the same
 
Unity, the new Spider Valve Eddie sells has the sight bowls (2 of them) one for the fronts, and one for the rears. These are drainable with a button relase on the bottom of them. Eddie develpoed them just for what you are experiencing. Removing the water vapor before you send it off to the air springs. The new system also uses and external vent valve as you currently have. I would replace you rear bags, get the new Spider valve, and hook your compressor up to a dried out dryer. Just my nickels worth.
 
You can buy the spring setup for 4 wheels at $400, or redo the whole air setup- (front air bags, rear air bags, compressor ) for $650.00.

An extra $250.00 to have a new air system vs coils and people waver. People spend $3000 to PUT IN an air system.

I'll know it is you coil guys coming up behind me because you'll be ones with the headlights pointed annoyingly in the air with your tailpipe dragging the ground, all because you have 2 people in the back and a sub in the trunk. :rolleyes:

Like I've said before. Sell the Mark and buy a T-Bird.
10 years ago when these cars were new that statement might have mattered. Nowadays who gives a flying :q:q:q:q? No cares that they cost 40k when new, have air ride(that is a PITA), have blend door issues on that same 40k car, etc.

I like these cars for what they are. But having an elitist attitude about a 5k car is laughable at best.
 
is that not exactly what i described??... some may vary by slight different shades of green.. but you get the picture... no need to nit-pick

and i believe its the same on all gen1's.. not sure on gen2's but i would have to figure its the same

Guess I read your post wrong.. but the color will vary it did from my 93 to my 94. Location is what I went with.
 
But having an elitist attitude about a 5k car is laughable at best.

What a guy with a screen name like gmoney buying a Lincoln anyway. I would think Escalade or something would fit better.

So why exactly did you buy this P.O.S. for $5K in the first place anyway?

Who said anything about being elitist. I just don't think you should rape a car for a few bucks. It is all you posers that buy this car for the engine and options that make me laugh. Wow, the seat moves when you push the backseat forward. Cool.

Putting springs on a car equipped from the factory with an air ride system because you are too damn cheap to maintain it properly is the real joke.

Go buy a hyundia. I hear they have a 10 year warranty. That way you can put on all the $8 springs you want.:rolleyes:

I'm sure when you sell the car you'll be asking $500 more for it because you took out the nasty and uncomfortable air ride system so that way the new owner won't have to hassle with it.

Buy the 1-1/2" lowering spring kit. That way you can buy all new upper and lower control arms 6 months from now. They don't tell you that when you buy the springs, do they?
 
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So why exactly did you buy this P.O.S. for $5K in the first place anyway?

Who said anything about being elitist. I just don't think you should rape a car for a few bucks. It is all you posers that buy this car for the engine and options that make me laugh. Wow, the seat moves when you push the backseat forward. Cool.

Putting springs on a car equipped from the factory with an air ride system because you are too damn cheap to maintain it properly is the real joke.

Go buy a hyundia. I hear they have a 10 year warranty. That way you can put on all the $8 springs you want.:rolleyes:

I'm sure when you sell the car you'll be asking $500 more for it because you took out the nasty and uncomfortable air ride system so that way the new owner won't have to hassle with it.

I sure hope that your post is only for gmoney.... and not for those of us who like the coil conversion or are just tired of fixing the air ride and would rather spend money on making these cars great...

Many of us have saved a Mark VIII from the grave... We get them cheap... that doesn't make us cheap...

Some of us buy these cars because..... I for one look at it as a modern version of an American Muscle Car. Not that it compares to the classics of years gone by but it's a lot better than many options from it's time period... and we at the price they sell for we afford them without taking out a loan.

I don't believe that anyone who doesn't want the air ride anymore is just cheap. Just because I don't want to keep putting money into the air ride doesn't make me cheap. I'd rather spend my money on fixing my car and making it what I want... and it's not a T-Bird... But that's an opinion to be saved for the political forum....

I like the ride I get from my lowered spring conversion.... Car handles much better than it did when on air.... That's not being cheap that's improving it's handling.... Also I didn't need the cushy ride of the air anymore.

Then again we actually have real curves around here in my area of Wisconsin.... :D ...

When I made my 93 my daughter's daily driver... she didn't need to experience the hassle of the air ride problems. No that she's away a college and I've taken care of many if the little Mark VIII problems, she has a nice reliable car... Plus it's much nicer than a T-Bird.... Oh and you can't tell the difference between the standard ride and the air ride... Only thing is the car doesn't drop at 55 mph... I don't think that she even notices the drop and doubt that she knows the car can go over 130 mph... I doubt that she even knows that it can go over 100 mph...

If someone like the air ride that's fine that's cool... if they want to keep fixing it that's fine that's cool..... but it's not the air ride that makes it a Mark VIII... the air ride to me is like the motor that makes the seat go by itself.... Didn't buy the car for that either...

I love the style of the Mark VIII... Somewhat T-Birdish but enough to turn me on to it....

I suppose that by changing the exhaust I messed it up also... we shouldn't do that either...

 
I just converted my old car to coils recently. My old man drives it and I got tired of working on the car in the freezing cold weather out on the street. I also got tired of him calling me at work to tell me that the car dropped and won't come up because his compressor now died after I put two new bags in the front a month prior. Luckily for him, the barely used front struts went for almost as much as new ones, so he can pay off his credit card for the coil conversion.

I'm a die hard air ride guy and sometimes wish my LS had it, but when it becomes a pain in MY ass and gets in the way of my free time, it's gotta go. Hell, I even kept it on my '87 that was far from a luxury car any more just because. Had that car 6 years and it never gave me an iota of trouble after replacing the two rear bags when I first got it. The '95 has been around for 3 years or so and it's gone through an AAS compressor (with spider valve) two front bags and countless frozen driers.

Now that I typed this, I'm sure I'll get a call soon that something else on the car went. lol
 
My point is boohoo. Your air-ride only lasted 12 years. So what?

For $250.00 more, you can replace the old air with new and get another 12 years.

12 years x 365 days = 4380 days / $250 = $ .057 /day.

For about a nickle a day you can drive with the upgraded air.

Or, if you make $15.00/hour, it will take you about 13 seconds to earn enough money for the tradeup.

If you are blowing thru all these compressors and driers like you say you are, something is up.

I've had three Mark VIIIs. Bought 4 new fronts, no rears and never a compressor or dryer for all 3. Driven somewhere north of 350,000 miles on the cars.

Rich, stiff springs make for a stiff ride. Try some bigger sway bars front and rear. That will REALLY change the way the car handles way more than stiffer springs.

I guess I'm just a purist so I'll shut up now and let you guys enjoy your expensive T-Birds.:cool:
 
Geez guys, calm down :) All I said is that coils looked more tempting.

I am not gonna switch. I just installed NEW front ones, not some re-built crap. So the investment is there. Yes I should get new rears and will soon.

"If you are blowing thru all these compressors and driers like you say you are, something is up."

I still have the same compressor.

That was sorta the point of the thread though, that SOMETHING is not right. Water has to be getting in somewhere and is must be in the black tubing the system uses for intake and such.

I ordered a NEW dryer, should be here in a couple days. I will replace it and leave the air compressor disconnected from that system for now. Come spring when its warm out and I an not working 9am til 9pm I will remove that system and see where was is getting in.

I am just frustrated that this happened last year, and it was a pain, and now its happening again. All I can think is that "new" water is getting in there. At first I thought this had something to do with my car ending up in that small "pond" that hydro-locked my engine, but that was over two years ago now so I am beginning to think not.
 
My point is boohoo. Your air-ride only lasted 12 years. So what?

For $250.00 more, you can replace the old air with new and get another 12 years.

12 years x 365 days = 4380 days / $250 = $ .057 /day.

For about a nickle a day you can drive with the upgraded air.

Or, if you make $15.00/hour, it will take you about 13 seconds to earn enough money for the tradeup.

If you are blowing thru all these compressors and driers like you say you are, something is up.

I've had three Mark VIIIs. Bought 4 new fronts, no rears and never a compressor or dryer for all 3. Driven somewhere north of 350,000 miles on the cars.

Rich, stiff springs make for a stiff ride. Try some bigger sway bars front and rear. That will REALLY change the way the car handles way more than stiffer springs.

I guess I'm just a purist so I'll shut up now and let you guys enjoy your expensive T-Birds.:cool:

My father is on disability and doesn't make a ton of cash to replace suspension parts. Plus he needs a somewhat reliable car to get to and from doc appointments. I dealt with - and fixed - the air ride problems when it was my car because I liked the system and am an air ride purist, to a degree. With winter approaching and not wanting to be outside on my back in the street messing with it since it would cut into my personal time (which I'm not getting paid for to work on his car), the choice was easy.
 
Geez guys, calm down :) All I said is that coils looked more tempting.

I am not gonna switch. I just installed NEW front ones, not some re-built crap. So the investment is there. Yes I should get new rears and will soon.

"If you are blowing thru all these compressors and driers like you say you are, something is up."

I still have the same compressor.

That was sorta the point of the thread though, that SOMETHING is not right. Water has to be getting in somewhere and is must be in the black tubing the system uses for intake and such.

I ordered a NEW dryer, should be here in a couple days. I will replace it and leave the air compressor disconnected from that system for now. Come spring when its warm out and I an not working 9am til 9pm I will remove that system and see where was is getting in.

I am just frustrated that this happened last year, and it was a pain, and now its happening again. All I can think is that "new" water is getting in there. At first I thought this had something to do with my car ending up in that small "pond" that hydro-locked my engine, but that was over two years ago now so I am beginning to think not.

Had I wound up keeping the car for myself, I would have gone with that new Spider Valve Extreme. Maybe you can look into that to help get the moisture out..?
 
Had I wound up keeping the car for myself, I would have gone with that new Spider Valve Extreme. Maybe you can look into that to help get the moisture out..?

For now, no. That was what the whole spider thing was supposed to do in the first place. I did not think it would work that way since in vents, but everyone swore by it. Now he releases a new one that REALLY does what the first one was suppose to do? Oh well. By design the dryer is suppose to remove a the moisture and in itself acts as a water separator. Air is forced into one end of a large cavity, the dryer, then out the other end where its compressed again. Just like a shop vac the dryer collects water, etc.

In my case the new extreme would have maybe helped if I was keeping an eye on it. If not the separators would have cracked due to ice and I would be in worse shape than now!

Then there is the other problem of dry rot. Sure water is not good for the bags, but bone dry air is just as deadly.

The only way I will get a spider extreme would be if I had a way to inject silicone spray into the system every so often to keep the bags conditioned.

I wanted to do it last spring, but its now a project for the next spring to place a new 12v high volume compressor in the trunk with all the other stuff. It will stay better protected, take dryer interior air in and be easier to access.
 

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