DunItRight
Dedicated LVC Member
Will any year rotor fit?
Rotors
- Thread starter DunItRight
- Start date
HyeLifeLS
Dedicated LVC Member
yes.
DunItRight
Dedicated LVC Member
Thanks. Anyone have any recomendations on aftermarket brands?
MrScalia
Dedicated LVC Member
R1concepts is a seller on EBAY crossdrilled/slotted
I've had a set on my wife 94 Mark for over a year ....Stops Great
HyeLifeLS
Dedicated LVC Member
sure, Brembos are good....
eL eS
Dedicated LVC Member
Having just bought brake pads and rotors online please allow me to make the following recommendations.
1) Buy from Ken at LSKnocepts.com otherwise you will be left worrying whether or not your product will arrive. (I know from experience)
2) Make sure you have PLENTY of time if you are going to do the install.
3) Buy the Lincoln rear piston wind back tool.
4) Make sure you by the high temp grease to lube the backs of plats and shims
5) I have the ebc product GD950, GD951 rotors, DP31220C, DP31221C pads and spent the day breaking them in and I am pleased with the outcome.
6) Buy from Ken and very trustworthy vendor.
1) Buy from Ken at LSKnocepts.com otherwise you will be left worrying whether or not your product will arrive. (I know from experience)
2) Make sure you have PLENTY of time if you are going to do the install.
3) Buy the Lincoln rear piston wind back tool.
4) Make sure you by the high temp grease to lube the backs of plats and shims
5) I have the ebc product GD950, GD951 rotors, DP31220C, DP31221C pads and spent the day breaking them in and I am pleased with the outcome.
6) Buy from Ken and very trustworthy vendor.
DunItRight
Dedicated LVC Member
Why do you need the tool? Wont a simple smaller sized C clamp do? I have done plenty of brakes and they never took more than about a half hour.
eL eS
Dedicated LVC Member
DunItRight
Dedicated LVC Member
Oops sorry I edited it at the last minute. No I never did the LS I ment to say that I did them on plenty of other cars in about a half hour.
My mothers cars mostly. A Neon and before that a Sundance and a Taurus wagon. They were driven hard so I did them plenty of times and it didnt take long at all. Also my 2001 Galant.
My mothers cars mostly. A Neon and before that a Sundance and a Taurus wagon. They were driven hard so I did them plenty of times and it didnt take long at all. Also my 2001 Galant.
eL eS
Dedicated LVC Member
The rear piston of the LS has to be turned back in to caliper. It can't simply be pushed back in like the fronts. The tool allows you to create down pressure while twisting it back ... all the way back.
The after market tool I bought at Advance Auto did not have a side to fit the caliper. This is the second tool of this sorts that didn't fit well which is why I strongly suggest buying the ford/motorcraft tool.
Trust me I suffered miserably today as a result of not having the proper tool. I think I invented a few new curse words.
The after market tool I bought at Advance Auto did not have a side to fit the caliper. This is the second tool of this sorts that didn't fit well which is why I strongly suggest buying the ford/motorcraft tool.
Trust me I suffered miserably today as a result of not having the proper tool. I think I invented a few new curse words.
DunItRight
Dedicated LVC Member
I had a Firestone place do my last set of pads on my LS but I didn't get to the rotors, didn't have to till now. Would they have the tool? I'm wondering if they even did my rear in that case. If so I guess I would just do the front myself and just take it in right away for the rear. Its pretty cheap for just labor when you supply the parts but not everyone will do that.
Thanks everyone I think I have found my rotors and all the info I need accept that last question..lol!
I think I am just going with the powerslots and EBC pads or maybe the EBC pads. I like those pads.
Thanks everyone I think I have found my rotors and all the info I need accept that last question..lol!
I think I am just going with the powerslots and EBC pads or maybe the EBC pads. I like those pads.
Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Yes - any place that does brakes will likely have a 'rear caliper' tool (most modern cars use this style) - I bought mine from habour freight - $29
eL eS
Dedicated LVC Member
Yeah it would be worth the money to let a shop do it. With the proper tool it can be done rather easily.
I do mine because I want to make sure the new pads will not squeal. I dope all the shims and clips up pretty good with high temp grease.
DunItRight
Dedicated LVC Member
Thanks guys, I just got scared when eL eS suggested the FOMOCO tool it self.
I think you can use a C-clamp to push the pistons back into the piston--after all, they don't screw out when you apply the brakes--but it's strongly discouraged. (There's a tit on the pads that matches one of the notches on the piston, so it can only go in and out with no spinning.) IIRC, using the tool is something you are supposed to do to protect the seals in the caliper.
To be absolutely clear, using the tool is the correct way to do it. You can get the correct tool for a very small investment, so you should use it.
The tool I used to do my brakes was not the Motorcraft one. I think it's a Lisle, but it's not the universal cube about which everyone gripes so bitterly. It has a two-sided disc that matches up to the piston; one side has one tit to match the notch in some pistons and the other has two that match the pistons Ford uses. (The disc looks like the one in the picture of the "GM-FORD DISC BRAKE PISTON TOOL" seen here: http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdbrak07.html .) I first got it to do the brakes on my SHO, and, so far, it's fit everything on which I've used it.
The job is time consuming, but not particularly difficult. For a pro, the job wouldn't even be all that time consuming, and if the car-work bay of my garage didn't already have a project occupying it, it wouldn't have been that time consuming for me, either. I couldn't tell you exactly how long it took me; I stopped to watch a football game in the middle of the first session, so I only got the front rotors done that day (I ran out of daylight).
Getting the front calipers off is probably the biggest pain, as you have to use a box-end wrench on the upper caliper bolt; a stout ratcheting wrench would make that job easier (there's no clearance for a socket). Actually, removing those spring steel retaining clips for the rotors is the biggest pain. I contemplated leaving them off, but couldn't bring myself to do it...
Do make sure you use Permatex or CRC Disc Brake Quiet on the backs of the pads; if your pads don't come with the shims on their backs, get them--take them off the factory pads if you must. I also put hi-temp grease on the caliper bracket where the pads slide, just in case.
FWIW, I used the EBC Green pads on EBC Ultimax rotors, both purchased from Ken at LS Koncepts.
To be absolutely clear, using the tool is the correct way to do it. You can get the correct tool for a very small investment, so you should use it.
The tool I used to do my brakes was not the Motorcraft one. I think it's a Lisle, but it's not the universal cube about which everyone gripes so bitterly. It has a two-sided disc that matches up to the piston; one side has one tit to match the notch in some pistons and the other has two that match the pistons Ford uses. (The disc looks like the one in the picture of the "GM-FORD DISC BRAKE PISTON TOOL" seen here: http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdbrak07.html .) I first got it to do the brakes on my SHO, and, so far, it's fit everything on which I've used it.
The job is time consuming, but not particularly difficult. For a pro, the job wouldn't even be all that time consuming, and if the car-work bay of my garage didn't already have a project occupying it, it wouldn't have been that time consuming for me, either. I couldn't tell you exactly how long it took me; I stopped to watch a football game in the middle of the first session, so I only got the front rotors done that day (I ran out of daylight).
Getting the front calipers off is probably the biggest pain, as you have to use a box-end wrench on the upper caliper bolt; a stout ratcheting wrench would make that job easier (there's no clearance for a socket). Actually, removing those spring steel retaining clips for the rotors is the biggest pain. I contemplated leaving them off, but couldn't bring myself to do it...
Do make sure you use Permatex or CRC Disc Brake Quiet on the backs of the pads; if your pads don't come with the shims on their backs, get them--take them off the factory pads if you must. I also put hi-temp grease on the caliper bracket where the pads slide, just in case.
FWIW, I used the EBC Green pads on EBC Ultimax rotors, both purchased from Ken at LS Koncepts.