My car keeps shaking even after new rotors???

mark0101

mark0101

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OK my steering shakes when I brake, so I got all new rotors and brakes for both front and rear. Even after replacing the rotors, it shakes? :mad: what else can be the problem?:confused: BTW i got the cheapest rotros and brakes as of now I need money for some other stuff
 
If they are bolted on too tight you can warp the rotors, so make sure they are not too tight. Also check your hub bearings as well, that happened tp me once.
 
1wykdmk8 said:
Does it shake all the time, or is it only when you apply the brakes?
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I know I need some front end work but it is only when I am braking. Actually the steering shakes even when I am not braking, so my be I need to replace something else. would pictures help to see the if its something else?
And what do you mean by being bolted too tight?
Thanks in advance
 
Put both the rears tires on the front and the fronts on the back and see if it goes away any...
 
Have the tires balanced. When I first got my car my steering would shake quite a bit, especially on the highway. Got new tires, balanced of course, and it was sooo much better.
 
yeah,try the tires,
maybe out of balance,maybe even a tire with a busted belt or something..

when i first got my mark and drove it home it was real nasty on the highway because the guy selling it wouldnt sell me his new tires on it,
he had his garage put on old used tires to sell it and they sucketh big time,

got new tires and it was like a new car.

also check your suspension for worn parts,but if its shaking even on smooth roads,then its something out of balance.
 
It may not be the tires. It maybe the strut rod bushings (radius arm bushings before some bucket head tries to correct me about it). The reason I say this is because I had the EXACT same problem not too long ago (maybe a year or two ago....before I decided to go with the poly front end bushings). I had everything rechecked and had the mechanic show me that the strut rod bushings (radius arm bushings) were shot. The way he showed me was that he had me stand next to the car and he drove it forward and hit the brakes real quick and you could see that the tire/wheel actually moved after he applied the brakes.

I did absolutely nothing else but put on the strut rod bushings (radius arm bushings) and the wheel shake was completely gone. I am not saying that the other things that people mentioned could not be your culprit, but just giving you more information to diagnose your problem. :D
 
1wykdmk8 said:
It may not be the tires. It maybe the strut rod bushings (radius arm bushings before some bucket head tries to correct me about it). The reason I say this is because I had the EXACT same problem not too long ago (maybe a year or two ago....before I decided to go with the poly front end bushings). I had everything rechecked and had the mechanic show me that the strut rod bushings (radius arm bushings) were shot. The way he showed me was that he had me stand next to the car and he drove it forward and hit the brakes real quick and you could see that the tire/wheel actually moved after he applied the brakes.

I did absolutely nothing else but put on the strut rod bushings (radius arm bushings) and the wheel shake was completely gone. I am not saying that the other things that people mentioned could not be your culprit, but just giving you more information to diagnose your problem. :D
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+1... solved problem on 3 of my marks...
 
Yeah that was another thing on my shaky Mark that had to be fixed. The bushings at the LCA were so bad I could pretty much take my hand and move it back and forth.
 
It might me the tires (I might be getting new ones in a few days)but I think its due to some suspension part. Let be post some pics up, maybe you guys might be able to find something with these.
Oh and I tried that trick for the strut rod bushings, I didn't see the tire move. I have video, I don't know if that will help.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wNnV0sVs5Y

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Your uper ball joints are toast, or if they aren't they will be when they get all fulof sand from the cracked boots. Do this, jack your car up and push on the top of the wheel. If it moves in and out or clunks your upper joint are shot. You can even watch the joint itself move if they are bad enough.
 
kustomizingkid said:
Your uper ball joints are toast, or if they aren't they will be when they get all fulof sand from the cracked boots. Do this, jack your car up and push on the top of the wheel. If it moves in and out or clunks your upper joint are shot. You can even watch the joint itself move if they are bad enough.
Click to expand...

Well My car does make a rattling noise when driving but would this cause the shaking thats happening?
 
Hard to say, but any loose suspension components are never good. If you have a jack go and try the test I just posted.
 
Long time no see everyone,



As far as the suspension in question,

Uppers, and stabilizer bar links need replaced BAD. I have always found that once you start replacing things like this, your better off to do it all at once. May cost a bit now, but it will save you ALOT of headaches in the long run.

New uppers, Lowers, inner&outer tierods, sway bar links, and radius arm bushings. You'll be AMAZED at the difference.
 
JDS353 said:
Long time no see everyone,



As far as the suspension in question,

Uppers, and stabilizer bar links need replaced BAD. I have always found that once you start replacing things like this, your better off to do it all at once. May cost a bit now, but it will save you ALOT of headaches in the long run.

New uppers, Lowers, inner&outer tierods, sway bar links, and radius arm bushings. You'll be AMAZED at the difference.
Click to expand...

Dayummm it is a long time JD good to see you back online.:cool:
 
JDS353 said:
New uppers, Lowers, inner&outer tierods, sway bar links, and radius arm bushings. You'll be AMAZED at the difference.
Click to expand...

How much would this all cost? and the most important parts are the Radius arm bushing and new upper arms, right?
 
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