Coolant reservoir bottle repair

lincoln_zero

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Im sure this has prolly been asked before, but I can't find anything on it specifically for the LS.
Micro fractures are rearing their ugly head. Ford wants $425 + 13% Canadian tax on said part amounting to $480... For a plastic bottle.

(The amount of tongue biting I'm doing to refrain from ranting and insulting Ford on here takes a great deal of self control).

Anyways, back to the purpose of this thread, due to the cracks being micro and being many, heating/melting isn't an option.
So, how about heat resistant Epoxy? I found a little tid bit on it:

How to Repair a Coolant Reservoir Tank Leak


Looking for your thoughts on this repair method?

Or, really, looking for everyone to tell me this wont work on the LS because __________

But seriously, Lemme know what the dangers here are. Thanks fellas.
 
Im sure this has prolly been asked before, but I can't find anything on it specifically for the LS.
Micro fractures are rearing their ugly head. Ford wants $425 + 13% Canadian tax on said part amounting to $480... For a plastic bottle.

(The amount of tongue biting I'm doing to refrain from ranting and insulting Ford on here takes a great deal of self control).

Anyways, back to the purpose of this thread, due to the cracks being micro and being many, heating/melting isn't an option.
So, how about heat resistant Epoxy? I found a little tid bit on it:

How to Repair a Coolant Reservoir Tank Leak


Looking for your thoughts on this repair method?

Or, really, looking for everyone to tell me this wont work on the LS because __________

But seriously, Lemme know what the dangers here are. Thanks fellas.
Have you considered the aluminum degas tank?
 
...
So, how about heat resistant Epoxy? I found a little tid bit on it:

How to Repair a Coolant Reservoir Tank Leak


Looking for your thoughts on this repair method?

Or, really, looking for everyone to tell me this wont work on the LS because __________

But seriously, Lemme know what the dangers here are. Thanks fellas.

I can't see how it would work for more than a day or three. The tank pressurizes and de-pressurizes over and over. Each time it flexes out and then back in. I think that would pop the epoxy off in short order.
What about this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EIUMWL2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Can you get that in Canada at a reasonable price? It's $65 in the US.
 
I can't see how it would work for more than a day or three. The tank pressurizes and de-pressurizes over and over. Each time it flexes out and then back in. I think that would pop the epoxy off in short order.
What about this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EIUMWL2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Can you get that in Canada at a reasonable price? It's $65 in the US.

$72 + shipping from the states. Might be an issue with Covid-19 wreaking havoc on shipping. I work for a courier business and its a disaster. But, its certainly cheaper than going through jugs of OEM Gold topping her up each trip.

Is there a flexible E-poxy? Some kind of rubbery high heat adhesive?

Edit:
something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Technicqll-Temperature-Silicone-Adhesive-Resistant/dp/B006C65ZCO


Double Edit:
I guess what I'm imagining in my head is, layering on some kind of thick ass coating of black goo, that hardens after say 24 hours, and sticks to the surface like a mofo. I can't imagine there not being a product such as this, cause I could see it being multi-purpose.


Triple Edit:
FLEX SEAL! LOL
Flex Seal Liquid – Liquid Rubber In A Can – Low Prices

It says up to 350 degrees (F)
Q: What temperatures will Flex Seal Liquid® withstand?
 
Last edited:
I share your pain Lincoln_Zero. Most coolant bottles are made from either polypropylene or polyethylene plastics. Both types are formulated on purpose to be very slippery substances and neither is very conducive to being bonded with adhesives. If you want to try going the adhesive route, I suggest you search for a two-part polyurethane adhesive in lieu of an epoxy adhesive. Rough up the surface to give the adhesive something to lock on to and make sure the surface is squeaky clean. No guarantees this will work but it might be worth a shot. I don't think an epoxy adhesive will work. Just so you guys are aware, Gorilla glue is two-part, moisture-cured polyurethane glue whereby the part B component is moisture in the air. The water chemically reacts with the resin in the bottle to produce a strong adhesive. Next time you use a glue like that, dampen the surface a bit first before you spread the resin. Don't know if Gorilla glue however, has the industrial strength you'll need for that pressurized degas bottle. You could experiment on a plastic milk bottle first just to see. That aluminum bottle may be worth trying as well. Best of luck. Rob
 
Just to be clear, I am in no way recommending Gorilla glue as a viable fix for this project. I just threw in that extra information as I thought you might find it interesting in a general sense. Loctite makes a two-part polyurethane adhesive that I believe Grainger sells. Maybe worth a look. One can buy a bunch of the crappy Dorman bottles for the price of the Motorcraft bottle. Not an easy fix for sure. Rob
 
Thats solid advice Rob, thank you.

At this point I already bought a can of liquid rubber. I'm gonna remove the bottle, clean it thoroughly and sand it to give the product as much of a chance to stick as possible. Then im gonna layer it on.

The product guarantee's several years of longevity, assuming its applied correctly. That said, if this works, I'm gonna go through my coolant system and coat anything plastic. But I won't do that until a few months from now, given the trial period for this product.

Will be attempting on the weekend. DONT LET ME DOWN PHIL SWIFT!

maxresdefault.jpg
 
Just to update:

We pulled out the bottle. It was swelled up, and bursted open. Looked like a knife was plunged through it. Impossible to seal as well do to the material type as Robert Crain pointed out.

I have found one on amazon for $79.99 and ordered it. I was tempted to order the aluminum one off ebay, would cost $180 with shipping, but coming from china and its taking 3+ months for stuff to get here from china right now.

Thanks for advice and tips.
 
Just to update:

We pulled out the bottle. It was swelled up, and bursted open. Looked like a knife was plunged through it. Impossible to seal as well do to the material type as Robert Crain pointed out.

I have found one on amazon for $79.99 and ordered it. I was tempted to order the aluminum one off ebay, would cost $180 with shipping, but coming from china and its taking 3+ months for stuff to get here from china right now.

Thanks for advice and tips.
If you order the aluminum NOW it will be at your house just in time for when the new Plastic one bust open again ...lol...J/K ...maybe
 
My Brain: HAHA funny man here ^

My anxiety: Oh crap what if he isn't joking? *heavy breathing*


I'll prolly order aluminum one later this year. Right now I need this lincoln road worthy.
 
Im sure this has prolly been asked before, but I can't find anything on it specifically for the LS.
Micro fractures are rearing their ugly head. Ford wants $425 + 13% Canadian tax on said part amounting to $480... For a plastic bottle.

(The amount of tongue biting I'm doing to refrain from ranting and insulting Ford on here takes a great deal of self control).

Anyways, back to the purpose of this thread, due to the cracks being micro and being many, heating/melting isn't an option.
So, how about heat resistant Epoxy? I found a little tid bit on it:

How to Repair a Coolant Reservoir Tank Leak


Looking for your thoughts on this repair method?

Or, really, looking for everyone to tell me this wont work on the LS because __________

But seriously, Lemme know what the dangers here are. Thanks fellas.
I have brought up the idea before, that if you have any of the "pull your own part" salvage yards in Canada like they do in the states, maybe you could find one there. They tend to have somewhat decent cars and you might find a newer one that someone replaced before something else happened to their car to sell it to salvage. I got one from a 2004 LS that was in really good shape for $10. Guess I need to take some time reviewing these forums and take a list out to the yards I know have LS and pull the parts for other LS owners. Just would change the cost of the part and shipping. I love tinkering with engines.
 
My bottle came in today.

HOORAY!
My father in law is installing it. $80 fix for now.

Thanks guys for all your suggestions.
 
Yes ...you need to modify it so that it will fit if you want to keep it
What specifically needs to be modified? Just the mounts? I just can’t get it lower because it’s ramming into the brake booster. I have cut off the small notched tab and it still wasn’t playing nice.
 
Radiator Coolant Overflow Bottle Tank For Ford Thunderbird LINCOLN LS | eBay I am also assuming you are talking about this one but I could be wrong.
This is a all quoted from stinkenlincoln
"I took the plunge and bought the Ebay bottle and I had to bend alittle of the flair where the 10mm bolt goes at the top of the factory bottle to fit and had to self tap the other 10mm it was tight between the brake booster but it's in and I have had 0 issues."

20190823_135458-jpg.jpg

Also this is his picture ...as you see he said it's a tight fit but it does fit with some modifications
 
This is a all quoted from stinkenlincoln
"I took the plunge and bought the Ebay bottle and I had to bend alittle of the flair where the 10mm bolt goes at the top of the factory bottle to fit and had to self tap the other 10mm it was tight between the brake booster but it's in and I have had 0 issues."

View attachment 828574277
Also this is his picture ...as you see he said it's a tight fit but it does fit with some modifications
Oh wow I thought he had to cut the tabs off and reeled. Just a little bending? Sounds good to me. You’re a life saver mate, thanks!
 

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