Shifting issues 2004 LS V6

SENECA

SENECA

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I have been reading many different threads here and just signed up to get some specific help.
I have a 2004 LS that was shifting very hard from P to R or D and also shifted hard while driving. I changed out the solenoid module and it seemed to get worse. I drove it hoping it would get better and it did not. It started 'screeching' when shifting I then sent off the PCM and got it repaired,put it back in and now it seems to be better but doesn't shift in to third and is very erratic. I am at my wits end. But I did see where someone said it could be the COPs and plugs. I am concerned that I may have done things in the wrong order and could have damaged the tranny and or pcm since i didn't change out the COPs prior to putting the PCM in and trying it.
 
Last edited:
SENECA said:
I have been reading many different threads here and just signed up to get some specific help.
I have a 2004 LS that was shifting very hard from P to R or D and also shifted hard while driving. I changed out the solenoid module and it seemed to get worse. I drove it hoping it would get better and it did not. It started 'screeching' when shifting I then sent off the PCM and got it repaired,put it back in and now it seems to be better but doesn't shift in to third and is very erratic. I am at my wits end. But I did see where someone said it could be the COPs and plugs. I am concerned that I may have done things in the wrong order and could have damaged the tranny and or pcm since i didn't change out the COPs prior to putting the PCM in a trying it.
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First off let me start by saying you're not alone when having transmission issues with the 2004 LS V6 ...many threads on this issue now with that being said ...I would suggest to start by checking your fluid ...if it's to full or to empty this can cause a hard shift or delay in shifting ...if it's as easy as this ( which it usually never is ) then you are very lucky ...next look at your ATF and examine the condition of the fluid if its bright red and doesn't smell burnt you may be as simple as a new valve body ...if it's dark red or black and burnt smelling you're more than likely looking at a transmission shop having to run through the entire tranny in order to replace burnt up bands and spray clutch ..."A sprag clutch is used in some automatic transmissions as a method of allowing the transmission to smoothly change gears under load" From Wikipedia
 
Thank you. The fluid was just replaced when i switched out the valve body.
 
SENECA said:
Thank you. The fluid was just replaced when i switched out the valve body.
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Okay I didn't hear you say in your post that you changed the Valve body...I only seen you said the Solenoid module...if the valve body, Solenoid Pack and the correct MotorCraft V ATF at proper level didn't help your shifting ...you're more than likely looking at a rebuild of some crucial components
 
Ok that is what I was afraid of but I was hearing people talk about the COPs causing major issues.
 
SENECA said:
Ok that is what I was afraid of but I was hearing people talk about the COPs causing major issues.
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Yes a misfire can cause stuttering and even marginal Coil Over Plugs can cause hesitation and stuttering ...if you wanna put your mind at ease the cheapest way to find out if you have a misfire if you're not seeing < a flashing Check Engine light > Free Forscan App with windows Laptop or download Forscan lite $5.99 using an android or Apple smartphone
Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro $10.99
 
In my case, there are no codes or Check Engine light when plug(s) and/or coil(s) needs to be replaced. However, when I feel hesitation and stuttering during acceleration mostly at highway speeds (say, accelerating from like from 55mph to 60-65mph) that's my signal that at least a coil is failing.
 
Check to see if the servo pistons need attention.

Screenshot_20200122-082846_Google.jpg
 
Ok ,thanks for the replies. It's really erratic and it revs really high in 2nd maybe 1st gear and rarely if ever shifts into the next gear ,whatever that may be
 
Or go to AAMCO, get the lifetime 700usd extra case must be to around 3k, mine was 4k from AAMCO ANNISTON Alabama. Ask for Robert or Damien. Make a trip out of it. BTW the updated rebuild has 75k and is better than oem. Plus I get the filter changed every 20k complimentary. The best out of three rebuild. Change the rubber couplers and center shaft bearing also. End of story
 
Okay so I had a misfire in multiple cylinders, replaced plugs with oem and replaced all coils as well. It's been about 5 months or so and I'm having a misfire in just one cylinder, is it probable that my coils or plugs are already bad or are there other possible culprits? I thought maybe injector but that would throw its own code right?
 
Justin S said:
Okay so I had a misfire in multiple cylinders, replaced plugs with oem and replaced all coils as well. It's been about 5 months or so and I'm having a misfire in just one cylinder, is it probable that my coils or plugs are already bad or are there other possible culprits? I thought maybe injector but that would throw its own code right?
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Hi Justin, get an OBD reader and the computer will tell you which one. The Amazon coils for 3.9l have worked well but do this
1. Use good brake cleaner and spray out the spark plug holes.
2. Replace plugs with Denso Iridiums, coat threads with anti-semite & check gap then install plug.
3. Coat spark plug boot on ribs that seal at the top of the hole with dielectric grease and insure coil wire is engaged in the coil output tag, may remove boot to verify. Also coat top boot inside to seal from moisture.
4. Use CRC QC cleaner before rw-connecting. To ensure no dirt and moisture corrodes the metal connectors.
I do this every time with flawless results.
Note: I did have a strange problem early under 80k miles. I had a misfire in pass rear coil but the computer was say throttle body unit. So I replace each coil with a known good one (new) till the misfiring coil was found. Generally I replace coils & plugs together with 150k to 200k life. When doing brake and these coils I find to get the environment quiet to help do all the details.
If you have a Shrader valve in the fuel system get the 3M fuel injection kit to purge them every 40k. Mine are original. Just maintenance. Hope that helps.
 
Here is photo of the installed filter assembly with the Shrader valve. Added a photo of the filter for this assembly. I got tired of removing the front tire to replace the fuel filter and for boot added the valve with 3/8 Aeroquip hose. Good luck
SteveOwens said:
Hi Justin, get an OBD reader and the computer will tell you which one. The Amazon coils for 3.9l have worked well but do this
1. Use good brake cleaner and spray out the spark plug holes.
2. Replace plugs with Denso Iridiums, coat threads with anti-semite & check gap then install plug.
3. Coat spark plug boot on ribs that seal at the top of the hole with dielectric grease and insure coil wire is engaged in the coil output tag, may remove boot to verify. Also coat top boot inside to seal from moisture.
4. Use CRC QC cleaner before rw-connecting. To ensure no dirt and moisture corrodes the metal connectors.
I do this every time with flawless results.
Note: I did have a strange problem early under 80k miles. I had a misfire in pass rear coil but the computer was say throttle body unit. So I replace each coil with a known good one (new) till the misfiring coil was found. Generally I replace coils & plugs together with 150k to 200k life. When doing brake and these coils I find to get the environment quiet to help do all the details.
If you have a Shrader valve in the fuel system get the 3M fuel injection kit to purge them every 40k. Mine are original. Just maintenance. Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

20200126_173254.jpg


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20200126_173553.jpg
 
Now I drove it today and when it gets warm it won't shift at all and revs to the limiter and goes about 40 mph max.
 
SENECA said:
Now I drove it today and when it gets warm it won't shift at all and revs to the limiter and goes about 40 mph max.
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I don't wanna be the bearer of bad news but sounds like you're going to be looking at a rebuild...
 
Damn,but it shifts halfway decent when it's cool. Someone said it could be a sensor on the transmission or a throttle body sensor. This is a nightmare
 
My LS said check transmission and wouldnt shift and was acting like it was slipping and was riight around 40 mph when it happened and I changed coils and plugs and it stopped.
 
I had this similar problem with the throttle position sensor. The retaining plastic tang was broken and the car would barely accelerate. Get the codes out of the computer to have a short list of faults
 
The connector would come out while driving and again go in limp mode. That got old till I discovered the broken plastic tag. I got it repaired at the dealer. $$$$ but it was repaired.
 
Ugggh yeah i am trying to replace the entire throttle body next. The person that installed the solenoid said that he was unsure of the connector on top was in securely enough and now I'm questioning that work
 
I only found out about the broken connector tang broken after $1300 for a new throttle body. I know the tech pushed the connector on and noticed no click from the tang.
 
Folks on eBay that sold me the solenoid said that it sounds like it's the valve body and not the solenoid. (I kinda thought they were the same thing) and the company ,also in eBay,that fixed the ECM said that it sounded like they may have installed some bad chips in the transmission module inadvertently so they said send it back. So basically the solenoid people just sent a valve body and the ECM people are taking another look at their repair.
I could use any more advice or tips if anyone cares to chime in.
 
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