I'm at a loss because I wasn't sure what lights came on with a 2nd Gen, as you know I had a 2001 1st Gen... This guy is selling the car for $1000 o.b.o and I want it bad but I don't know if this will be a worth while purchase if I can't fix it myself ...he also said that this intermittent (starting problem) started to happen after replacing the battery...he says it starts one day and then won't start the next ...very weird ....do you think I could get to the root of this problematic situation without losing a ton of money and more importantly my mind?No alternator (battery) light, ABS light, traction control or AdvanceTrac light? Sounds more like wiring, ignition switch, or REM than PCM.
Do you think I'll have help from any codes? I forgot to ask him if he has any codes that registered ...I guess I'll ask him tomorrow...just wondering if electrical shorts will turn up any codes?Depends on if you are good at tracing electrical problems.
After searching this forum for hours on end I found a thread about the DTR being the culprit for someone's no start issues on a 2003 LS ...could this be why the LS starts sometimes and other times it won't?...just a Shot in the darkDoesn't sound like it's a fuse problem.
After searching this forum for hours on end I found a thread about the DTR being the culprit for someone's no start issues on a 2003 LS ...could this be why the LS starts sometimes and other times it won't?...just a Shot in the dark
That makes sense ...ThanksYour symptoms do not sound like a DTR problem. It wouldn't stop the other warning lights.[/QUOTE\]
That makes sense thanks
Not my car it's a potential purchase ...This LS has intermittent starting problems. Sometimes it will start no problem and other times it won't even crank. When the guy turns the key as I said in a earlier post all that lights up on dash is security and air bag light.IS your dash cluster doing anything at all when you turn the key over? guages sweep at all?
04_Sport are talking on the starter itself, or in the ignition?Check for heavy green corrosion at the starter connections. You might also want to try swapping relays with another one with the same rating.
Which relay are you talking about ....many relays and three fuse boxes as you know? Thanks for your Input much appreciated...I need all the help I can get ...the car is quite far away from me a three hours so before I go And check it out I want all the arsenal I can get so I solve the issue right after I hand the guy the $$$Check for heavy green corrosion at the starter connections. You might also want to try swapping relays with another one with the same rating.
I'll be going down to check it out this next weekend and will try what you said ...much appreciated! Everything you said makes sense...I knew about the #1 fuse under dash but didn't know about the 13-15 under hood ...Good stuff Thanks again!Corrosion at the connections on the starter itself. A couple different relays to check. Corrosion at the starter terminals will cause a relay to work hard and heat up, (causing failure), due to high amperage draw at starter.
Relay 1 at fuse panel under dash, (the only one in there).
Relay 15 at distribution box under hood. Try swapping it with Relay 13, which is the horn relay.
Try the 15-13 swap first, and if that works you know what to buy. If that doesn't work, then buy a replacement for Relay 1.
Corrosion at the connections on the starter itself. ...
I agree, it would be a shame if that would happen...it's a tricky situation to say the least because I need to make sure it's fix before I hand over the money, yet don't want to hand over the money until I know it's fixed... I really don't know how to go about this ...first time I've been up against something like this, if you know what I mean kinda damned if I do damned if I don'tForgot about a possible remote start. My neighbor had a smilar problem with a van a few years back. Started when it wanted to,,, until it finally refused.
Dutch,
Make sure the owner gaurantees to sell it to you. I'd hate to see you drive that far and put the work into it,,, only to have the owner say "thanks" and refuse to sell it to you. I know, I know... my cynical side is showing.
Okay makes sense ....thanksDraw up a simple contract for them to sign, stating they gaurantee to sell it to you even if you get it running,,, and call the owner and ask them if they will sign it before you start work. If they refuse,,, don't make the drive. Include year, make, model, milage and VIN #, and date. Include spots for both printed name and signature, (for you and whoever's name is on the title). Verify that the person you are dealing with is the actual owner and on the title. A simple hand written agreement on a sheet of notebook paper is good enough, (in duplicate... for each of you).