With the front struts. Just hand tighten lower bowl at lower control arm. Then drop the front end down and air-up. To prevent a system fault, you may have to use the jacks initially to get the air-ride into a height window that wont cause an immediate fault. Once the car is at height, remove jacks and bounce it up and down gently to settle the suspension. Once its at or very close to ride height and things look good/level, tighten that lower bolt. Its a pain, because you can not lift the car to do them. Very long extensions help. You dont have to torque to spec though, just get as tight as you can so the bushing's teeth on its metal sleeve bite into the lower arm - enough that when you lift the front end back up they will not slip. Then you can tighten to spec. These same sorta teeth are found on most vehicle and most bushings. Its sorta acts as a secondary shock absorber, if that makes sense, to help get the suspension back to its sweet spot.
I have attached a pic of a Mark VIII lower arm. You can see the small teeth in the pic, I added some arrows. Also you can see some "teeth" at where the arm meets the frame.
So what happens if you DONT do this correctly? The sweet spot will not be correct, the twisted bushing will want to return to its normal shape and effetely push the wheel down if you tightened with it hanging. This will make the ride a little more bouncy at times. And secondly, the bushing will fail quickly, because at normal ride height its being twisted.
Side note - if you are doing all this work, you may wont to do the strut rod bushings. A common failure point and having the front end apart will make them easier to do. Plenty of write-ups/nfo on those in the forum.
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