dealer RKE/RMST wiring diagrams

[stumpy]

....dealer did not solder the splices...I've been having issues
Here are the diagrams

 

[stumpy]

PM me for donations - you're welcome

 

[1LoudLS]

I totally support factory remote start systems, but would absolutely never let a dealer ever add anything on. as that is not their normal job, they are often terrible at it! (not that every shop does a great job, but there are that do)

when my brother in law was buying his 2010 fusion, he told them he wanted RS and they told him they had plenty with that option... well after buying the car and using the system after after showing his dad how it worked and not really driving the car, he realized that the car wouldn't do the key take over process right and was not shutting off no matter what he did. so he drove it over so I could take a look. after popping the lower dash off there is just this hot mess of spaghetti wires just crammed up in there. after cleaning it all up and making scene out of everything, I found out that they never bothered to hook up the brake wire (which is what is used to shut the system down after the key has been turned to run)

then this past week I was down visiting their new house since moving away and he had just got a 2015 F150/2.7EB with the MyFord Touch system, and we were making some serious upgrades to the sound system. when buying the truck he told them the only thing he wanted was sync and the OEM nav system and we were going to add an amp, speakers and sub to it later. well since he had got it, the nav does some weird things that his dads 2015 5.0 doesn't do. the biggest being when in nav mode it looks a little different as it doesn't have the sync tabs in all the corners and after you enter a destination, anytime you left the nav screen to make a change to the radio station or playlist, it would drop the destination and stop giving you directions... well after taking it apart it turns out, the dealer had a truck without nav and added on their dealer add on system to the MyFord radio that was in there, and while look a lot like the OEM option, it functioned very different! this was also made by the audiovox company and not the OEM supplier. the worse part is the whole system was used with OEM style T- harnesses with very long wires, well again once we open the dash up, they didn't bother to neatly wrap up or set aside any of the wire, and just crammed this all back there in a mess. they have to cut sections of sub dash supports to fit the module somewhere and the cuts were sloppy (I get it, no one usually sees these, but taking you time to make every thing look clean really helps the next guy out if there is anything that ever needs to be troubleshooted later) and then this system added a USB and HDMI port that had to have two holes drilled (not straight either) in one of the dash panels that look terrible, even though hell never use the HDMI and there are already 2 other USB ports for the SYNC system that are actually hidden down below them. there were also different dealers both doing sloppy work.

 

[1LoudLS]

but by "having issues", more specifically?

 

[stumpy]

remote start intermittent. pats flashing 50% of the time, other 50% its happy and starts. already tried replacing the little black module and the antenna wire loop, no change in behavior

 

[stumpy]

also my fan is blowing 100% of the time, I think the harness is shot, but I don't have time to re-wire the entire dash..

 

[1LoudLS]

well if the PATS is not allowing the car to start some of the time, the who problem is with the immobilizer bypass...

the least likely suspect is that it has a loos wire either on the power, ground, or activation wire (it is least likely since most ford systems just have a harness that plugs into the brain)

if it works at all, then the chip inside of it has been programmed to the car so that is fine.

the most common issue is usually the placement of the RF antenna (the ring around the key cylinder) it is very touchy on its placement, so you need to make sure that you have it positioned perfectly. it needs to be tight around the OEM transponder antenna (black plastic ring around the key cylinder) and it cant be back too far, like behind the factory ring. I usually pull it as far forward as possible (closer to where the chip would be when the key is inserted) but obviously that's not entirely possible... then once i get it into a good spot that works well, I usually hot glue it into place.

if you continue to have problems getting the ring in the right place, I would swap it out for a different brand (like the Flashlogic FLCan) that instead of having its own antenna, it taps and solders into the PATS wires in the harness and then programs in either like a key or even cloning a key with their software.

 

[1LoudLS]

which fan is running all the time?

 

[stumpy]

Hvac

 

[stumpy]

well if the PATS is not allowing the car to start some of the time, the who problem is with the immobilizer bypass...

the least likely suspect is that it has a loos wire either on the power, ground, or activation wire (it is least likely since most ford systems just have a harness that plugs into the brain)

if it works at all, then the chip inside of it has been programmed to the car so that is fine.

the most common issue is usually the placement of the RF antenna (the ring around the key cylinder) it is very touchy on its placement, so you need to make sure that you have it positioned perfectly. it needs to be tight around the OEM transponder antenna (black plastic ring around the key cylinder) and it cant be back too far, like behind the factory ring. I usually pull it as far forward as possible (closer to where the chip would be when the key is inserted) but obviously that's not entirely possible... then once i get it into a good spot that works well, I usually hot glue it into place.

if you continue to have problems getting the ring in the right place, I would swap it out for a different brand (like the Flashlogic FLCan) that instead of having its own antenna, it taps and solders into the PATS wires in the harness and then programs in either like a key or even cloning a key with their software.

I replaced the key antenna ring wire along with its black box, no change.
It works when it wants to. It will start every time if I leave a key in the ignition, so that tells me the harness is bad somewhere.

 

[G-RELL]

all keys for it?

 

[stumpy]

yes

 

[1LoudLS]

I replaced the key antenna ring wire along with its black box, no change.

your old one was probably not bad.

the most common issue is usually the placement of the RF antenna (the ring around the key cylinder) it is very touchy on its placement, so you need to make sure that you have it positioned perfectly.

still applys...

It works when it wants to. It will start every time if I leave a key in the ignition, so that tells me the harness is bad somewhere.

doubtful.

the most common issue is usually the placement of the RF antenna (the ring around the key cylinder) it is very touchy on its placement, so you need to make sure that you have it positioned perfectly.

still applys...

 

[1LoudLS]

Hvac

unless they ran a wire or two to the DATC module (defrost would be the only option where that would be needed) there should not need to be any connections back there that would effect that?