Gen 2 Blend Door Actuator

TheBigRedOne

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Any way to test if a Blend Door Actuator is good or not? I have one but am not sure if it it works. I think it is new,

Thanks,
 
If it's in the car you can try this but for outside of the car there inst any method.


Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Unit Self-Test

The EATC self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 16-26°C (60-80°F) when performing the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed. Record all DTCs displayed.

If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.

If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer to the Symptom Chart Condition: EATC System Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation.

The self-test can be initiated at any time with any resulting DTCs displayed. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.

To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds.

To exit self-test and retain DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank).

To exit self-test and clear all diagnostic trouble codes, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.

The self-test should be deactivated before powering the system down (system turned OFF). Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.

EATC SYSTEM ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES


024 Fault in blend door calibration during self test
025 Intermittent fault in blend door calibration
030 Automatic temperature control sensor shorted
031 Automatic temperature control sensor open
040 Ambient sensor shorted
041 Ambient sensor open
042 Ambient sensor intermittent short
043 Ambient sensor intermittent open
050 Sunload sensor shorted
052 Sunload sensor intermittent short
115 Intermittent engine coolant temperature signal
125 Intermittent vehicle speed signal
 
I'm pretty sure the self-test won't tell you if the blend door actuator is broken.

You can test for a broken actuator by dropping the glove box, then looking for the gray plastic arm that's partially hidden on the left side of the opening. There should be a metal bar going off to the left and out of sight. Try turning the arm by hand. It you can turn it at all, then the actuator is broke. If it's locked in place (as it should be), start the car and let the engine warm up. Then, while watching the arm from the passenger side, cycle the climate control between full hot and full cold (90 and 60 or whatever it is). The arm should turn on its own. If not, bad actuator.

EDIT: I think I misunderstood your original post. If you're asking about a blend door actuator you already bought, you should be good as long as it has the black arm attached and the engineering number printed on the label ends with "AF". The "AE" was more prone to breaking, but even the "AF" will break eventually if it's not properly modified. As far as the internals, they tend to be very durable. I've never heard of one going bad on the inside. The only thing that breaks is the black arm on the outside.
 
I have tried to move the lever under the glove box and it will not move at all. If I have the car warmed up and I put the EATC on 90 degrees, nothing happens, all I get is cold air all the time. I do not have the expertise to remove the dashboard, and I cannot afford to have it done so I guess I am stuck having no heat.

Thanks for all your replies.
 
I don't really care about or need heat, but there are days where having both would be nice, and having it automatically heat or cool would be nice, but I just reach up under the dash and pull down (for cool) and push up (for heat) the grey arm. It doesn't move much, and to get real heat you might need to zip tie it up to the wiring bundle near it. I am trying to put off pulling the dash in the 97 Mark VIII, and my 2000 Grand Marquis has the same issue, blend door is broken.
 
Well if it is the actuator motor that is not working and not the arm that is broken, you are not going to be able to move the lever. That is my problem. The lever under the glove box will not move at all. I do not want to break anything.
 
Bigredone, if yours won't move at all, run it through the self test that markviiiedrea posted. I've had 2 different Mark VIII's that just needed recalibrated and they started working.
 
I finally did the self test and I got the following code: 030 Automatic temperature control sensor shorted. Where is this sensor located? Is it expensive?
 
If it's in the car you can try this but for outside of the car there inst any method.


Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Unit Self-Test

The EATC self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 16-26°C (60-80°F) when performing the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed. Record all DTCs displayed.

If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.

If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer to the Symptom Chart Condition: EATC System Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation.

The self-test can be initiated at any time with any resulting DTCs displayed. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.

To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds.

To exit self-test and retain DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank).

To exit self-test and clear all diagnostic trouble codes, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.

The self-test should be deactivated before powering the system down (system turned OFF). Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.

EATC SYSTEM ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES


024 Fault in blend door calibration during self test
025 Intermittent fault in blend door calibration
030 Automatic temperature control sensor shorted
031 Automatic temperature control sensor open
040 Ambient sensor shorted
041 Ambient sensor open
042 Ambient sensor intermittent short
043 Ambient sensor intermittent open
050 Sunload sensor shorted
052 Sunload sensor intermittent short
115 Intermittent engine coolant temperature signal
125 Intermittent vehicle speed signal

Is this self test done with motor on or off?
 
Chargerxr,

I just got the 024 code ! Please tell me how to recalibrate the blend door !

Thank You,
Sonny
 
What I mean by recalibrating, is doing the self-test and then clearing the codes. Sometimes you might have to do it more than once.
 
So i tried the self test and got a code 155.The gray will move up on it's own when lowering the temp setting but will not move down when raising the temp setting.
That sounds like the upper black arm may be broke or cracked. Easy way to confirm: pull the headlight switch and small panel, then the dash trim so you can access screws to remove the message center. You will be able to see if it is cracked or broken. If so, search my other posts, I made a post showing how to fix this in 10 min using a zip tie, without removing the dash for the top and a small clamp for the grey connecting arm (both of mine were cracked). I included pics so you know what exactly to look for.
 
That sounds like the upper black arm may be broke or cracked. Easy way to confirm: pull the headlight switch and small panel, then the dash trim so you can access screws to remove the message center. You will be able to see if it is cracked or broken. If so, search my other posts, I made a post showing how to fix this in 10 min using a zip tie, without removing the dash for the top and a small clamp for the grey connecting arm (both of mine were cracked). I included pics so you know what exactly to look for.
Thanks,
I found your post and got as far as taking off the headlight switch knob and small panel.The dash trim came loose on the left side but the part that goes around the a/c vents wouldn't budge.I was afraid to break the panel so may try again later.Thanks for the info,right now I'm
moving the gray arm on the left side of the glove box if I need heat.
 

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