No bass

LaserSVT

LaserSVT

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Been a decade since I had an LS but I remember the stereos sounding better. Just bought a 2000 V8 with the Alpine system and it has no kick. There appears to be subs in the rear deck and I checked all 3 fuses in the kick panel but they are all good.

I realize this has prolly been covered a million times but we all know how well the search function works. And hey, owned the car under 12 hours and figured out the door handle, clock spring, sunroof and suspension issues already. :)
 
What kind of bate are you using?

Personally I like to make a good swift cast and then keep my rod tip down towards the water. Whenever I get the hook this gives me the ability to do a sweep set I'm a lot better off to try and catch a good bass.

Good tips:
http://www.bassresource.com/how-to-fish/
 
Cool. Wasn't sure who "that guy" would be in the LS section.
 
bwaa haha haha


no but seriously, there shouldn't be any shortage of bass if it has the rear deck subs... I'm sure you checked that they are playing sound of of them(but since you were checking fuses, I though there was a chance that nothing at all was coming out), so how about the DSP settings in the radio, I know that some of them will greatly reduce the bass output.






all the LS problems out there, this is definitely not one of them, the only problems with subs Ive ever seen were either blown subs or an aftermarket deck not being hooked up correctly...
 
There is no sound from them at all. Funny thing is I checked all three fuses the owners manual states are for the radio while the radio was on. Pulled and reinstalled one at a time and the stereo never turned off.

But yeah, no sound at all that I can tell from the rear deck. I assume the amp is dead.

Fuggin car is turning into what I always feared of an LS. New clock spring, new door handles, tie rods, the cooling fan res was down so I am sure that's a leak I have to fix before the fan fails, sunroof guides are broken and now I think the climate control module is bad. No heat on the drivers side so I figured CCV but after doing the OFF & Defrost then AUTO test showed a slew of codes that suggest the module is failing. When I have it do its test and recalibrate it ends with no codes so it kinda threw me for a loop.
 
LaserSVT said:
There is no sound from them at all. Funny thing is I checked all three fuses the owners manual states are for the radio while the radio was on. Pulled and reinstalled one at a time and the stereo never turned off.

But yeah, no sound at all that I can tell from the rear deck. I assume the amp is dead.

Fuggin car is turning into what I always feared of an LS. New clock spring, new door handles, tie rods, the cooling fan res was down so I am sure that's a leak I have to fix before the fan fails, sunroof guides are broken and now I think the climate control module is bad. No heat on the drivers side so I figured CCV but after doing the OFF & Defrost then AUTO test showed a slew of codes that suggest the module is failing. When I have it do its test and recalibrate it ends with no codes so it kinda threw me for a loop.
Click to expand...

Have you check the connectors at the speakers for voltage? It does sound like the amp is dead.
What procedure are you doing to recalibrate the climate control?
 
Pressing Off and Floor then the AUTO button. Left display counts up while the right counts down and it moves all the actuators inside for about 20 seconds. Then its supposed to give codes but only lights up all segments with no codes and then I reboot it.

Was strange because it had heat this morning but after 20 minutes the driver side progressively became cooler but was still warmish. Think the controller is going out. Fortunately they are cheap.
 
LaserSVT said:
Pressing Off and Floor then the AUTO button. Left display counts up while the right counts down and it moves all the actuators inside for about 20 seconds. Then its supposed to give codes but only lights up all segments with no codes and then I reboot it.

Was strange because it had heat this morning but after 20 minutes the driver side progressively became cooler but was still warmish. Think the controller is going out. Fortunately they are cheap.
Click to expand...

Failed/failing DCCVs often do not trigger any codes. I would still suspect the DCCV before the DATC.
 
BTW, for your no bass problem, did you check fuse #18 in the trunk fuse box? That's the one for the sub amp. If not that, you should also check the resistance of each sub, maybe both are blown out.
 
LaserSVT said:
Pressing Off and Floor then the AUTO button. Left display counts up while the right counts down and it moves all the actuators inside for about 20 seconds. Then its supposed to give codes but only lights up all segments with no codes and then I reboot it.
Click to expand...

If all the elements illuminate then there are no stored codes and all is well.
 
Oh so it may very well be that valve then? Cool, I will have Sapper grab one. I just sent him to the JY to pull me another amp. Mine has power although the remote on does not have any voltage but using my Power Probe I induced voltage but nothing happened. I think the amp is bad. I will go ohm out the speakers just to be safe though.
And yes, power on the single trunk fuse and all three in the kick panel.
Also sent him to pull the cooling fan valve/servo on the back of the pump. Mine was cracked in the threads and spewing fluid on the alt. Not paying $150 for a new one when a JY one is $2.
 
I just checked resistance on the sub wires and its 3.9 ohms so I guess that's what it should be since most car speakers are 4 ohms. Also grabbed my better meter and can see there is an 8v signal for the remote on wire and I remember some stock decks only put out 7 or 8 volts for the amps turn on. Has solid power at the red wire and a good signal ground at the black wire. I assume that amp gets its ground through its chassis.
 
LaserSVT said:
grabbed my better meter and can see there is an 8v signal for the remote on wire and I remember some stock decks only put out 7 or 8 volts for the amps turn on. Has solid power at the red wire and a good signal ground at the black wire.
Click to expand...

that sounds as much like a dead amp as you could get! the only other thing i could think of (and i doubt is your problem) would be a problem with the OEM radio not sending out any signal to the amp. if you get the new amp and it doesnt work, then that would be the next thing i would check





LaserSVT said:
I assume that amp gets its ground through its chassis.
Click to expand...
yep
 
Couldn't get an amp at the JY. None of the LS cars there had the optional systems.
 
no kidding, I've worked on a quite a few LS over the years and I think only one of them has not had the subs!
 
I'm not looking to hijack but i've been searching these forums for days and i'm new here. Also JUST bought my first LS and it has the dreaded coil issues AND i noticed on the ride home that I had no bass. Question for those in the know... is it possible to use an aftermarket amp in place of the factory alpine amp? I suspect amp issues as well. Thanks and HELLO!
 
ft_nox said:
I'm not looking to hijack but i've been searching these forums for days and i'm new here. Also JUST bought my first LS and it has the dreaded coil issues AND i noticed on the ride home that I had no bass. Question for those in the know... is it possible to use an aftermarket amp in place of the factory alpine amp? I suspect amp issues as well. Thanks and HELLO!
Click to expand...

you could but its a lot more work than just finding an OEM amp and swapping it out.
 
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