Ok, I just left the dealership and they had replaced my front wheel hub assemblies (moog) and I got in my vehicle and the traction control light and ABS light was on!!!! This is soooo frustrating and also I noticed a sssshhhh ssssshhhh sound like warped metal is scraping and it gets faster as I accelerate. I hear it better when I pass other vehicles and curbs. PLEASE HELP I left it at the dealer they said their going to check it out tomorrow morning.
Just left the dealership Front Wheel Hub Ass replaced TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT/ABS
- Thread starter nortyhat
- Start date
They said it was a defective hub there is no power running through the wire. They want me to buy a hub from them for $229 for one! Moog disappointed me the dealer said one was aluminum and one was cast iron. Why would moog have two different kinds?!
Im on my second set of Moog inner tie rods within a year. Bought all available suspension parts from Moog/OEM. 1st set started squeaking after 4 months sent back to Amazon had parts reinstalled on my dime. They are starting to fail again. Time to get ri of this FOMC P.O.S.. You will regret ever buying this car.
purevilpleasure
Dedicated LVC Member
Just so you know...this POS isn't really Ford.
Well I'm on my original set of inner tie rods in 10 years. I would order a different brand if it's not working for you, or find the reason for the premature wear.
Just google counterfeit moog parts, you will see that even rockauto has been accused of sending moog labeled boxes with obvious knock offs. I'm sure amazon has problems too.
So you're blaming Ford for a Moog failure? I used Timkin front wheel bearing assemblies.
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
i like the LS. we'd probably get another 2nd gen if we needed another 4 door car.
up keep on it hasn't been much worse than my Mark VIII in the long run.
they have both been pretty good cars.
but yeah, if you bought a Moog hub and blamed Ford/Jaguar, that ain't right.
all the Ford bearing stuff i have taken apart was Timken bearing stuff.
i put Timken stuff back in, and i don't have any issues.
the LS got a Timken right front hub a few years ago. i did it myself. it was easy. no more problems.
up keep on it hasn't been much worse than my Mark VIII in the long run.
they have both been pretty good cars.
but yeah, if you bought a Moog hub and blamed Ford/Jaguar, that ain't right.
all the Ford bearing stuff i have taken apart was Timken bearing stuff.
i put Timken stuff back in, and i don't have any issues.
the LS got a Timken right front hub a few years ago. i did it myself. it was easy. no more problems.
Do it yourself. The thing is only held on by 4 bolts. Once you setup the tools it takes 30 mins per side Max. Timken is the way to go. They make roller bearings for trains.
Ranchero50
Well-Known LVC Member
Ditto, did my drivers side last night. 12mm wrench to remove the caliper, then a 15mm socket for the 2 caliper bracket bolts and the four hub bolts. Just be aware that the hub and caliper bolts are different thread pitch (at least on my '05). It took me almost an hour from jack up to jack down only because I didn't realize the top caliper bolt went in through the back. I thought it was a pin.
BTW, Autozone has a 20% off sale online and free shipping so the $122 Timken hub was $102 to my door with tax. Ordered Wednesday, got it Friday.
BTW, Autozone has a 20% off sale online and free shipping so the $122 Timken hub was $102 to my door with tax. Ordered Wednesday, got it Friday.
i agree with the rest, do it yourself...the hardest part is removing the old one, and that's already done. the failed new part will just slip right out!
20 minute job for a novice, and all you need is a socket set, a jack, and a few minutes.
20 minute job for a novice, and all you need is a socket set, a jack, and a few minutes.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
How can you tell without jacking the car up and looking if you have an aluminum or iron hub? Mine has a bit of a rumble in the front, might just have to do this too. I'd prefer aluminum to iron too, for the weight savings.
are you skinny enough to crawl under it?
you could also take to a "midas" type shop (don't let them turn a wrench), and get an inspection...you can take a look when its on the rack (i do this stuff all the time TBH, that's all they are good for).
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Nah, I'd rather not let the criminal element anywhere near my car.
Just wondering if there is a noticable difference between the two that can be seen through a wheelwell with the tire turned to one side.
Just wondering if there is a noticable difference between the two that can be seen through a wheelwell with the tire turned to one side.
Ranchero50
Well-Known LVC Member
From a lot of bad experiences at work, I would stick with the steel version. In my experiences aluminum is too soft to be in direct contact with the ball bearing that will deal with vibration.
purevilpleasure
Dedicated LVC Member
Use a magnet.
Well I allowed them to install motorcraft hub assemblies, and a sport sway bar. CRAZY part is when they drove my car upfront and I got in I noticed my steering wheel sooooo HARD to turn... and I kept hearing a clunk sound when I turn it hard right and back to the left, then my airbag light comes on. So I called lincoln dealership when I got home and they towed my car back to the shop. So its there now but the only problem is they said "well the sway bar and wheel hub assemblies has nothing to do with the steering" I said (angry) so you mean to tell me from your garage to the front of the building my steering wheel stiffened up as such. Now some of you may wonder why I didn't just leave the car there well me being unlearned on cars I thought the NEW sport sway bar was the reason of the steering being stiff so I drove it home, the only reason I freaked out is when I felt and heard the clunk when making a right turn and when the airbag light illuminated.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Sway bars don't alter steering stiffness at all. They aren't involved in turning the front wheels.
They let the steering wheel turn while it was disconnected from the rack. (Why did they disconnect the steering column from the rack?) The clunk was your clockspring breaking.
They let the steering wheel turn while it was disconnected from the rack. (Why did they disconnect the steering column from the rack?) The clunk was your clockspring breaking.
Ranchero50
Well-Known LVC Member
Wow, this story is going from bad to worse... The sway bar is in the front of the wheels right?