AC Compressor & Manifold Line

nortyhat

nortyhat

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Took my car in today because it wasn't blowing cold air. I was told it was a leak in my Ac Compressor and Manifold line the total pricing came up to be $1,933 thats parts and labor. I told them I would order the two parts (rockauto) and they said ok well the labor would be $600. Now ford dealership gives you a 10% discount if your car is over 100,000 miles. I was wondering if this is a good price for labor and they gave me the part numbers for the parts:

Compressor: BU2Z 19V703 JA
Manifold Line: 2W4Z 19D734 BB

Now I noticed on rockauto they have the four seasons brand cheaper than the motorcraft can someone tell me which one is the correct one (four seasons) to purchase? I noticed it has a heart beside the part on rockauto.

I have a 2002 Lincoln ls V8 3.9


ALSO I told them in the meantime to recharge my system with freon until I get this repaired and the ac is freezing cold right now lol. I noticed the hissing sound when I turned my ac on before it ran out of freon and that has been going on for at least 7 months I guess it finally gave out.
 
It's possible, but unlikely that you need both the line and the compressor. Are they just saying both because they weren't sure which of the two was leaking? If it is the manifold line, it may just be the valve in the fill port. The dealers won't replace the valve, but you or a good independent can.

Note that your LS uses R134a (Suva) not R-12 (Freon).
 
Ok do you guys think I should just settle for the recharge they already did? It's blowing great right now! Or should I order the parts now?
 
nortyhat said:
Ok do you guys think I should just settle for the recharge they already did? It's blowing great right now! Or should I order the parts now?
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My guess is the original problem still exists.

I had my mechanic check the system and he found the entire system was missing washers ( used to seal the system ).

After replacing all washers and recharging the system, car is acting normal again.
 
nortyhat said:
Ok do you guys think I should just settle for the recharge they already did? It's blowing great right now! Or should I order the parts now?
Click to expand...

If the compressor was leaking it still is. All the refrigerant will leak right back out. As long as you can turn a wrench replacing the compressor isn't too terribly difficult. You will also need a new dryer. Both can be had for around $300 from Rock Auto.
 
To add to LS4me's comment. If the compressor really is leaking (I've had two that did so far), it will leak out most of the compressor oil first. Once the compressor runs dry, it will destroy itself and send little bits of metal everywhere in the system. If that happens, you'll probably have to replace the expansion valve, and will have to flush the system. You have to pull out the whole dash to replace the expansion valve. That will bring the repair cost way up.
 
northy, you might not need a Compressor. The part is called a "AC compressor manifold hose assembly" so you may have been told that you just need that one part but misunderstood it as needing two parts. One way to know for sure is to look at the compressor. If the compressor looks clean and not covered in green/yellow oil (which probably looks brown and sticky from grime) then you just need the hose assy.

I was charged for just under two hours labor to replace just the hose assy, plus a refill of refrigerant. Since I hadn't had a refill in quite some time, the system was empty so there was no charge for a vac. but if you do have refrigerant in the system currently a vac will be about another $40. My total on labor + refrigerant came to about $200. The part I ordered from Rockauto was about $180 IIRC. That shop is trying to rip you off. Find another shop who will let you look at the compressor and make your own decision. Take some pics and post them here if necessary..

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=88196
 
stumpie said:
... Since I hadn't had a refill in quite some time, the system was empty so there was no charge for a vac. but if you do have refrigerant in the system currently a vac will be about another $40. ...
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I think that you are misunderstanding the reason for pulling a vacuum. You may have it confused with refrigerant recovery.

Anytime the refrigerant system is open to the air (such as when replacing a part), it is necessary to pull a vacuum on it. This has nothing to do with removing refrigerant. It has to do with removing air and moisture. Even a tiny bit of either is very bad for the refrigeration system. You pull a high vacuum (at least 29.5") for at least 1/2 hour to boil all the moisture out of the system.

I'm sure you really did get a vacuum pulled. (If you didn't, your system will be failing soon.) I suspect that what you didn't get was a charge for refrigerant recovery, which is a different step. It is a legally required step if the system still has pressure.
 
You're probably right as always. They didn't have to remove any refrigerant, that's what I meant.
 
Just finished up doing my manifold line right now. 2000 V6. The line was 65 from Rockauto. Mine was leaking from the charge nozzle on the manifold line ,like right on compressor. Its down low near road and kinda got crappy. Bummer my A/C guy took off sick today and I cannot get a suck-n-charge.
 
With four aging cars (2001,2002,2004,2006), I gave in a few months back and bought a 2 stage vacuum pump.
 
Right on mark can you post a link from rock auto for that manifold line part?
 
Anyone know why the highside reading would remain constant and the low increase when adding R134.

Replaced my compressor and drier last summer with a buddy (system was open for awhile before I got new lines -they were cut up when the front end was pretty much scrapped from a wreck)

We drew nearly perfect vacuum at 29 for a few hrs since I wanted to be sure it was clean. charged it and all was good. After a few months the A/C would blow ice cold ONLY when on the gas (getting on highway or higher cruising rpms.) when idling it went to cool.

Put gauges on and the highside was a little low so we thought maybe more R134. Added some and the low side just went up.

He thought it might be the eBay compressor....I should've gone rockauto four seasons but was being cheap. Or expansion valve is clogged. Any way of finding oiy which is bad? Im hoping it takes a lot to clog an expansion valve. I've removed the dash once and that is a who#$ of a job.
 
Just thought, could the drier be at fault since the high side valve is there? Or does it go high side line to valve, valve to drier, then drier to condesor? It would be inceadibly convenient if that's my issue
 
Clogged expansion valve or dryer would make the high side pressure go too high. Low high side and high low side is usually a sign of a failing compressor.
 
Any way of verifying that its the expansion valve? Guess I could always replace a $20 drier. But a expansion valve replacement would certainly suck
 
Broseph said:
Any way of verifying that its the expansion valve? Guess I could always replace a $20 drier. But a expansion valve replacement would certainly suck
Click to expand...

It's not.
It's the compressor.
 
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