Radiator repair plastic nipple

[dnsherrill]

unfortunately I broke this nipple/stem at the LH top of my radi....it is tied to the reservoir tank; I'm about to attempt a reattachment repair...planning to use one of these LocTite brand adhesives....
open to suggestions or predictions?
it's about 38 degrees out so I'm heating the area with (3) 250w halogen lights and a 75w incandescent bulb

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here's my adhesive options:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/13/7/epxy_plstc_s/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Plastic-Bonder.htm
or
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/6/31/cntct_usns/overview/Loctite-Stikn-Seal-Extreme-Conditions.htm
...my dad suggested 'Goop', because it has a high urethane content, but it's also flammable

 

[slowmkviii]

First figure out what kind of plastic your working with.
When you know that you will know what epoxy to use

 

[dnsherrill]

local Ford dealer said to use 3m 04747
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/dur...b|7185130145&gclid=CKjl4_LOwLQCFQHonAodcEkA8w

 

[Lownslowlsc]

I'd say use the plastic epoxy. Everything i've used it on has help up. I've read about people using plastic epoxies to seal cracks on the radiator tanks, I don't think this would be any different.

Just clean the area well and follow the directions.

 

[PenGun]

I managed to break the upper tranny cooler fitting where it goes into the radiator. I was doing a stand alone cooler anyway but that was not planned. The plastic epoxy and what is left of the fitting with a washer and nut jammed on top has held just fine so far.

It also fixed the occasional 1/2 shudder, I have not had it happen since. Probably would have already done the J-Mod if it had kept happening, so it's a mixed blessing.

 

[dnsherrill]

I don't know what the actual plastic material is that the radi is made of...my guess is ABS, but i dunno; nothing I found handles PE, PP, or PTFE (the 3M 04747 may bond to those, the description is ambiguous)
I decided to try the LocTite Stik n Seal Extreme Conditions adhesive, primarily because
- the plastic epoxy calls for applying at temperatures between 40°F (5°C) and 70°F (21°C)...i can't really guarantee that now..site of repair is heated by three 250w halogens nearby, ambient outside temp:35F
-the 3M requires additional application accessories, so total cost would be about $70 if ordered online..more with local retail
-the extreme conditions adhesive has a bigger window for application temps, and looks like it will withstand heat and vibrations better...if/when it falls off I'll try something else...I'm assuming capping both ends of this hose (at radi and at overflow/coolant tank) is not an option

 

[PenGun]

Well this is what I was going to try next:

http://www.urethanesupply.com/Radiator-Repair-Kit/Plastic-Radiator-Tank-Repair-Kit/

 

[keVIIIn]

New radiator..problem solved..no dealing with proper adhesives and possible leaks etc...

 

[m_maker]

Just file the area flat, drill out, tap it with 1/4 NPT and install a 1/4 Inch NPT Male Threads x 5/16 Inch Barb.

 

[Pantera1973]

Just file the area flat, drill out, tap it with 1/4 NPT and install a 1/4 Inch NPT Male Threads x 5/16 Inch Barb.

:iconcur:

 

[Right on the Mark]

Just file the area flat, drill out, tap it with 1/4 NPT and install a 1/4 Inch NPT Male Threads x 5/16 Inch Barb.

I was thinking same thing. Only thing is there looks to be a small dia "pad" on rad thats left of barb then thin plastic rad tank. The dia of stub does not look like it can take an 1/4 npt maybe a 1/8 ntp but I'm not there to measure.

 

[dnsherrill]

I considered creating a new mechanical connection as suggested, but presume the wall thickness of the radi at that location is only thick enough to create no more than 2 threads....is that enough?
-i.d. of the existing plastic nipple is the same as a 16 penny galv. nail (@5/32'')...that's what I used as a handle/support while gluing it
-yes, K..new radi is an option...after the cheap fixes fail

 

[dnsherrill]

Just file the area flat, drill out, tap it with 1/4 NPT and install a 1/4 Inch NPT Male Threads x 5/16 Inch Barb.

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when the plastic is drilled out for the new .25'' NPT, where do the plastic shavings go? the bottom of the radi? then later into the...

 

[Right on the Mark]

I considered creating a new mechanical connection as suggested, but presume the wall thickness of the radi at that location is only thick enough to create no more than 2 threads....is that enough?
-i.d. of the existing plastic nipple is the same as a 16 penny galv. nail (@5/32'')...that's what I used as a handle/support while gluing it
-yes, K..new radi is an option...after the cheap fixes fail

You can measure pad thickness by taking paperclip and bending a 90 on very end so that it will fit in hole. Stick it in hole catch the 90 and mark outer part pull out and measure pad thickness. NPT are 27 tpi so that 1 thread per .037.

 

[dnsherrill]

now it looks like this

I'm optimistic

 

[Right on the Mark]

Remember thats under pressure.

 

[DieselDan]

I would seriously be prepared somehow, just incase that thing breaks while you are out.
M_maker's suggestion is the best, IMO.

 

[dnsherrill]

Remember thats under pressure.

to the overflow reservoir tank? that's high pressure?
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[Right on the Mark]

to the overflow reservoir tank? that's high pressure?
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and plastic shavings in the radi are not a problem? they'll probably flush out...or I guess i could hold a vac tube adjacent while drilling

Pressure not high pressure. That barb sees the same pressure as the whole cooling system. I don't know exact pressure mk8's run at but olden days 16 lbs caps where common.

 

[ford nut]

Drill it tap it.
Done.

 

[Pantera1973]

You could do like one fellow did when his broke on his Mercedes and use a Nylon Barb.

Thread AND glue it with a plastic glue/sealer.

 

[NetKeym]

We've broken little plastic nipples like that off fuel pumps before at the shop and here is what we've done that works well.

1) Get a brake line the same size as the hole, cut a small 1-1.5" piece of tubing.
2) Shove that piece in the hole on the radiator leaving half of it sticking out.
3) Spread some of that epoxy you are using all over the joint.
4) Shove the little nipple piece over the brake line sticking out.

I wish I had pics, but I don't. It's always worked for us under the pressure of a fuel pump, so it should work very well on your radiator.

 

[dnsherrill]

Netkym, what keeps the brake line hose from blowing out out the radi? just the epoxy, right?
---
I let it cure under the 250w light overnight; it was stuck, but came off pretty easily...
-the dimensions of the existing (broken off) plastic nipple are: o.d. 5/16''; i.d. 3/16''; wall thickness 1/16''...

 

[dnsherrill]

NPT are 27 tpi so that 1 thread per .037''

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nipple wall thickness .0625''.....less than 2 threads

 

[NetKeym]

Netkym, what keeps the brake line hose from blowing out out the radi? just the epoxy, right?
---
I let it cure under the 250w light overnight; it was stuck, but came off pretty easily...
-the dimensions of the existing (broken off) plastic nipple are: o.d. 5/16''; i.d. 3/16''; wall thickness 1/16''...

Well, the brake line is just about the same size as the hole, so you have to 'force' it in there, then put the other little piece of nipple you have over the little bit of brake line that is sticking out - again 'forcing' it. So mostly the tightness of the whole thing is holding it together. I just put a little epoxy over the whole thing as extra measure. Sometimes, if the brake line is slightly too big, I've reamed out the hole slightly with a drill bit.

You know - sorta like when you put a vacuum line over a fitting - it stretches over the fitting and stays there. Well, in this case the brake line is the fitting.
Here, I drew up a quick pic to illustrate what I'm saying; the red part inside the repaired nipple is the brake line: