Replacing the cooling fan pump actuator

Problem solved!

I went out of town the day after my post and ended up having the car towed (free) to my mechanic friend's shop. He was able to get this out for me. He said what he did was pound a socket over it and then it screwed out.

He installed the new actuator I had picked up from Max at Five Star Ford and the cooling fan now kicks into high speed when needed and no more overheating issues.
 
I'm wondering if you all were having the same problem as me... My car starts heating up if I am sitting to long in one place. If I start driving it cools down but if i'm not moving or in stop and go traffic. HOT. The fan looks like it is spin but not fast. I also don't here it speed up.

I just picked up a coolant temp sensor but wonder if that is the issue. Like it won't switch on because the info is not being sent.

I have 2002 Lincoln LS V8.
 
Revisiting an old thread here...

If my fan comes on initially, but after awhile slows down (even with AC on), could this be the actuator on its way out?

My LS is overheating after long-ish drives.

have bled the system too many times to count, and replacing the t-stat tonight, just in case.
 
Revisiting an old thread here...

If my fan comes on initially, but after awhile slows down (even with AC on), could this be the actuator on its way out?

My LS is overheating after long-ish drives.

have bled the system too many times to count, and replacing the t-stat tonight, just in case.

That sounds like the failure mode for sure. Overall, this is a job that is easy and effective, my fan was restored to new operating condition by changing the solenoid last year. Driving around with this issue is downright scary in the summer.
 
The weird thing is - I can cycle it hi/lo with the AC button just fine. But every 4-5 drives, it will kick down to low speed after like 30 minutes. AC on and everything.

Just did thermostat and spent nearly an hour fully bleeding the system. Seems fine for now.

Will be ordering a new solenoid soon.
 
Tomservo 92, I'd like to thank you for posting the processes, I just did this tonight and after driving it for an hour it seems to be working just fine. The dealer was trying to replace the entire unit at about $900, searched a little on here and come to find out I didn't have to replace the entire thing. This forum has saved me so much money. Thank you and everyone else that help fellow members.
 
OK, got it done. Here's how I did it:

1. Removed underbody panel to get access to the pump from below.
2. Removed intake tube to have better access to reservoir.
3. Siphoned off all the fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster.
4. Disconnected the suction line from the reservoir only.
5. Pushed line out the way of the actuator (used oil drain pan to catch any fluid).
6. I was able to get a small ratchet with a T-40 bit into the small area behind the pump and broke the actuator loose.
7. Using a T-40 screwdriver, I removed the actuator from the pump.
8. Using the wiring harness (note I didn't disconnect it first), I fished the actuator up from above and disconnected it from the harness (where it was much easier).
9. Reverse steps 1-8 to install new actuator.
10. Refilled the reservoir with fresh fluid.

It works like a champ now. Since I didn't let the suction tube or pump lose all of their fluid, there was no need to prime the pump.

So since I found this thread most useful as far as tackling the hydraulic fan pump actuator job, I thought I would resurrect it and contribute to it. While preparing for the job and scouring the net for several hours to find a good write up, this thread was the best I found, and I could not find any pictures of the process. So I took some :)

My symptoms were similar to others, fan would stay on low and would not kick on high. Overheating would often happen at the tail end of a trip during the city driving or stop and go traffic. Running the heater on high would cool it enough to keep the temp gauge in the middle. Summer around the corner, I need to get my cooling system to spec.

The job took me about 3 hours with a trip to the hardware store included, also was stopping to clean hands to snap a few pictures. Since the area we are working on is very tight, I could only get a few useable pictures. Difficulty 3 out of 10 although patience is required, you may only be able to unscrew the actuator a fraction of a turn at a time.

Part: XW4Z-3783-CA
I got mine from fairway ford through ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/160861645741 from seller fairfome for $125 to my door.
Tools:
Ramps(recommended) or Jack and Stands
T-40 bit on a socket
Ratchet (swivel head recommended)
Hose clamp tool
lots of towels/rags
Oil catch pan
Turkey Baster (optional)
ATF
Glasses, not shown in picture, necessary, you may have to be in a position where atf is dripping in your face.
0tools.jpg

Drive up on ramps, pop hood, disconnect battery(i didn't) suction out as much fluid as you can from the fan reservoir.
1ramps.jpg
2suction.jpg

Crawl under car and locate your alternator near the passenger side tire (i had removed my plastic shields on a previous job), my alternator has a big terminal and 0g wire coming off it going directly to the battery, I have a big sound system and it isn't worth removing to disconnect the battery. That terminal and post/nut is HOT, careful shorting anything to it. The hose to the right of that is from the reservoir leading to pump hose.
3alternator.jpg

This is a picture of the solenoid, its located above the alternator on the back side of the pump, right above the reservoir hose. I wanted to see find this photo on the net so badly before I started but couldn't.
4solenoid.jpg

This is where a hose clamp tool comes in handy to remove this hose, its a tight spot even for the tool. Fluid will drip immediately, pull hose off pump and set it aside somewhere.
5clamp.jpg
6pull hose.jpg

I couldn't see nor take a picture of the back side of the solenoid, but you can feel the T-40 socket with your fingers. Get a ratchet in there and carefully unscrew the solenoid. I was afraid of shorting out my rachet on the alternator post and was about to tape it when I found my good ole harbor freight swivel ratchet and it made life really easy, also it helps that the handle is insulated.
7ratchet1.jpg
8ratchet2.jpg

This is a top view of the solenoid, I couldn't see it until It was removed, once its disconnected fish it out with the electrical connector and disconnect it, connect new solenoid and drop it down.
9top view.jpg10fish it out.jpg11old and new.jpg

Installation is reverse of removal, except you fill new fluid in at the end, start car, check fluid level, check for leaks. When I installed my solenoid, I tightened it hand tight as the old one wasn't on very tight. My new solenoid was able turn somewhat freely on the connector side, is it too loose? It seems like its supposed to turn like that by design. Didn't notice any leaks, i'll watch it for the next few days. Could someone please clarify this for me? Hope this helps someone. Now my fan kicks on high, yay, but i may have a stuck thermostat too, I'm going to tackle that next weekend.

0tools.jpg


1ramps.jpg


2suction.jpg


3alternator.jpg


4solenoid.jpg


5clamp.jpg


6pull hose.jpg


7ratchet1.jpg


8ratchet2.jpg


9top view.jpg


10fish it out.jpg


11old and new.jpg
 
Last edited:
Started having same issue with overheating. No coolant leaks (ive replaced the Degas bottle twice since 2002 when I first purchased the car new, had the heater control valve replaced last December, replaced the tstat housing and other plastics last November.) All was perfectly fine until recent 95 degree temps in stop and go with AC on. Fan used to kick into high but as of late, it never kicks on high even when the temp needle is almost into the red. Bled the system fully in last couple of weeks, monitored the usual areas for coolant leaks (i.e. behind front drivers side wheel) and there are none. This will be my next job.
 
I replaced mine today and it was pretty straight forward. I did have the same issue as Kool LS that the whole unit didn't unscrew. I used a 13mm stripped bolt socket and the rest came out easy. Thanks whatsupadrian for the pics and tutorial.

My problem still exists though. I am fine on the highway but in traffic it will start to over heat. The fan speed will fluctuate with the accelerator but will not go into high speed when the car is standing still. Anyone have any ideas?

2013-06-18_13.20.37 (Medium).jpg

2013-06-18_13.20.37 (Medium).jpg
 
Started having same issue with overheating. No coolant leaks (ive replaced the Degas bottle twice since 2002 when I first purchased the car new, had the heater control valve replaced last December, replaced the tstat housing and other plastics last November.) All was perfectly fine until recent 95 degree temps in stop and go with AC on. Fan used to kick into high but as of late, it never kicks on high even when the temp needle is almost into the red. Bled the system fully in last couple of weeks, monitored the usual areas for coolant leaks (i.e. behind front drivers side wheel) and there are none. This will be my next job.

Update:
After making sure of my symptoms (never overheating on highway even on hottest day with AC on but only starting to overheat after long drive/very hot day/when having to slow or stop(less airflow hitting radiator/engine), and never hearing the fan kick into high when the temp needle starts to hit about 3/4 mark) and making sure my cooling system was fully bled, I want ahead and followed Tom's directions and used the pics in this thread. Took me a bit longer because I let the car sit so the dripping ATF fluid from the pump (where the hose was disconnected from) could finish dripping so I didn't have it dripping right in my face as I worked. Fairly straightforward job just requires patience. SO glad I had that professional hose clamp tool..worth the cost JUST for this job. Afterwards started the LS, put the A/C on max (lowest temp of 60 on the climate control/highest interior blower speed) and within second began to hear the engine cooling fan start to ramp up from low to high. (had stopped going on high at anytime before the repair).

Will give her a test drive later but I definitely now have high speed engine fan operation restored. Thanks for all the tips within this thread
 
Thanks to all for the info, my problem is solved, special thanks to Hawk I had the same problem with my actuator coming apart. My LS has been pretty good to me for the last few years. Haven't had too many oroblems?
 
I replaced mine today and it was pretty straight forward. I did have the same issue as Kool LS that the whole unit didn't unscrew. I used a 13mm stripped bolt socket and the rest came out easy. Thanks whatsupadrian for the pics and tutorial.

My problem still exists though. I am fine on the highway but in traffic it will start to over heat. The fan speed will fluctuate with the accelerator but will not go into high speed when the car is standing still. Anyone have any ideas?

View attachment 828459528

Hey, are you sure it was a 13mm back then? I slipped one over the stuck threads and it just spun with no friction.
 
Yeah I'm sure it was but it was for a stripped bolt head (not a regular socket) and looked like the below.

bolt-extractors-802.jpg

My original issue was solved when I replaced the thermostat and housing. The thermostat came apart in the housing and cracked the plastic.

bolt-extractors-802.jpg
 
Yeah I'm sure it was but it was for a stripped bolt head (not a regular socket) and looked like the below.

View attachment 828475629

My original issue was solved when I replaced the thermostat and housing. The thermostat came apart in the housing and cracked the plastic.
That is exactly what I slid over the threads!.. no traction whatsoever. I'm gonna try this new pack of grips I found. Hopefully they work. Thanks for the response!!!!!
 
I changed my actuator out in February and had the same issue with the actuator coming apart. I just roughed up the exposed threads slightly, then put the back part of the actuator back on tightly. Then the entire assembly backed out. Just took a few minutes. As first I thought I was screwed but it did not take long to get out completely.

BTW, I have had to replace enough of these actuators over 13 years that I refill only with synthetic ATF. Also with each oil change I suck out as much fluid as I can and replace it with new, just to keep the fluid clean over time. Don;t know what actually causes actuator failure, but it is not dirty fluid in my LS. I figure it is cheap insurance.
 
I changed my actuator out in February and had the same issue with the actuator coming apart. I just roughed up the exposed threads slightly, then put the back part of the actuator back on tightly. Then the entire assembly backed out. Just took a few minutes. As first I thought I was screwed but it did not take long to get out completely.

BTW, I have had to replace enough of these actuators over 13 years that I refill only with synthetic ATF. Also with each oil change I suck out as much fluid as I can and replace it with new, just to keep the fluid clean over time. Don;t know what actually causes actuator failure, but it is not dirty fluid in my LS. I figure it is cheap insurance.

What'd you rough it up with? I'm not sure of what can actually reach that area since its such a tight fit. Not to mention, I"m doing it from the top of the engine. There's absolutely no need to go under.

If I can avoid buying a set of bolts then I'll do so. If not, it's off to the store.
 
Thanks to this thread i was able to get mine replaced with ease. I really wished i had had a video to watch before i did it but couldnt find one. So i decided to make my own. Here is the link:


Hope this helps someone.
 
Guys, i have a major problem and am stuck and need your help. I was changing out my cooling pump Actuator and part of the old Actuator is still screwed into my Cooling Fan Pump housing. It seems part of the Actuator unscrewed from itself when using a #40 Torx to remove the Actuator. See my photos below.

Does Anyone have any ideas on how i can get this extra threaded piece of the Actuator out of the pump itself?

I don't think screwing the old actuator back in and then trying again will help. I thought of trying to take a vice grips to the part still in the pump, but the access to get a vice grips in there is limited.

Photo #1 shows the Brand new uninstalled Actuator on the Left, the old Actuator on the right (what came out of the car)

Photo #2 shows the new Actuator on the bottom, the old Actuator on top

Photo #3 shows the part of the old Actuator still screwed into the pump and sticking out (this is the part missing from the old acuator of photo #1).

Seems the design of the actuator and how the pieces are both screwed into each almost makes this happen. I'm surprised if nobody else has encountered this yet.

2000 LS V8 with 160k miles

View attachment 56792

View attachment 56797

View attachment 56798
I just had the exact same issue. any answers to this?
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top