worn out bushings
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jmtiseo
The Peanut Gallery
Upper ball joints/upper control arms. They are sold as an assembly and if you buy them chances are they will say Jaguar on them. Listed below are the parts' number, their quantity, and description. Check with your parts guy, but this should be all you need.
Front:
1x 4Z-3084-AA: RH Upper
1x 4Z-3085-AA: LH Upper
2x 807144-S441: Ball Joint Nuts
4x 706005-S439: Bolt
4x 520213-S427: Nut Adjusting Screw
Rear:
1x 4Z-5500-AA: RH Upper
1X 4Z-5500-AB: LH Upper
4x 704887-S439: Bolt
6x 520214-S441: Nut & Ball Joint Nut
Front:
1x 4Z-3084-AA: RH Upper
1x 4Z-3085-AA: LH Upper
2x 807144-S441: Ball Joint Nuts
4x 706005-S439: Bolt
4x 520213-S427: Nut Adjusting Screw
Rear:
1x 4Z-5500-AA: RH Upper
1X 4Z-5500-AB: LH Upper
4x 704887-S439: Bolt
6x 520214-S441: Nut & Ball Joint Nut
oddball
Dedicated LVC Member
Check RockAuto. I've gotten good prices on Motorcraft upper arms there, and I'm more comfortable with Motorcraft than the oddly-named companies. Moog tends to have the best deal for lowers.
jmtiseo
The Peanut Gallery
More than likely but I'm not the one to skimp on car parts; my preference is oem.
pragmatic
Dedicated LVC Member
Lower a-arms do not include the joint. The joint comes with the knuckle or as RockAuto sometimes lists it ball joint holder.
jmeecer
Active LVC Member
I am in the process of gathering parts in order to replacing the upper control arms on my 2002 LS. The nut adjustment screws (520213-S427) are discontinued. Do you really have to replace all of the nuts and bolts when changing the UCA?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
You really should, but if you clean them really well and put some Loctite on you might get by.
RigsLS
Dedicated LVC Member
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As Joe points out you really should. reason being, if you ever look at most automotive hardware nuts, the first few internal threads are coated with either white/blue/red nylon, this serves purpose to prevent the bolt from backing itself out should it not have been tighten down enough or just somehow rattles itself loose.
Mostly used in applications where a retaining nut is holding vital part together, in other words, should a nut become loose and have a chance to back itself completely off the threaded bolt/part, the bolt/part would rattle out and in this case suspension parts could become separated. Not a good thing when going 70MPH plus down the interstate while wearing a big grin on your face.
I myself am a big fan of new hardware BUT it is not always possible to obtain such and at that point I would inspect said hardware, clean it up and refasten with BLUE loctite as Joe also mentions. Make sure to use the BLUE loctite, NOT the RED loctite.
These hardware nuts are a one shot deal, the thread bites into the nylon, tightens down and sits locked, preventing it from coming completely off due to vibrations. It's rather important, without the nylon, when it gets loose, it WILL rattle itself off completely. Once the thread from the bolt goes into the internal thread of the nut, it's in and considered done, it should not be reused. You'll end up threading into an already chewed up nylon band which then will not serve it's purpose the second time around.
Be sure to use the BLUE loctite, should you decide to reuse hardware, can't stress that enough!
You'll never get them back off if you use the RED loctite.
~ separate note: Did you know that each and every oil change, you really should be putting a new drain plug in?
The thread on the drain plug is so soft compared to the thread in the drain pan, designed like that on purpose. Plus the oil drain plug has a collapsible copper washer on it, which flattens slightly to make a tight seal when tightened down. Take a look at your drain plugs external thread next time you have it out, 99% chance it's done!
Mostly used in applications where a retaining nut is holding vital part together, in other words, should a nut become loose and have a chance to back itself completely off the threaded bolt/part, the bolt/part would rattle out and in this case suspension parts could become separated. Not a good thing when going 70MPH plus down the interstate while wearing a big grin on your face.
I myself am a big fan of new hardware BUT it is not always possible to obtain such and at that point I would inspect said hardware, clean it up and refasten with BLUE loctite as Joe also mentions. Make sure to use the BLUE loctite, NOT the RED loctite.
These hardware nuts are a one shot deal, the thread bites into the nylon, tightens down and sits locked, preventing it from coming completely off due to vibrations. It's rather important, without the nylon, when it gets loose, it WILL rattle itself off completely. Once the thread from the bolt goes into the internal thread of the nut, it's in and considered done, it should not be reused. You'll end up threading into an already chewed up nylon band which then will not serve it's purpose the second time around.
Be sure to use the BLUE loctite, should you decide to reuse hardware, can't stress that enough!
You'll never get them back off if you use the RED loctite.
~ separate note: Did you know that each and every oil change, you really should be putting a new drain plug in?
The thread on the drain plug is so soft compared to the thread in the drain pan, designed like that on purpose. Plus the oil drain plug has a collapsible copper washer on it, which flattens slightly to make a tight seal when tightened down. Take a look at your drain plugs external thread next time you have it out, 99% chance it's done!
jmeecer
Active LVC Member
Ok. My car is a 2002 made in December 2001, based on the VIN decoding.
I was told by the Ford mechanic that both upper control bushings need to be replaced and the passenger inner tie rod needs replaced. I am going to replace both UCA and all four tie rode ends.
I ordered a shop manual on CD of Ebay will arrive today, but from what I could gather from this site, Motorcraft parts do not come with new bolts. I will be buying Ford parts, not aftermarket parts, I do not trust them. So, the parts and the hardware I need are as follows:
1x 4Z-3084-AA: RH Upper,
1x 4Z-3085-AA: LH Upper,
2x N807144-S441 or (N807144-S60; W520214-S441): Ball Joint Nuts (HN3) 12 mm,
4x W706005-S439 or (W706005-S426) Bolt for Upper Control Arm (HB5) 10 mm,
4x W520213-S427 Nut Adjusting Screw For Upper Control Arm (HN1) 10 mm,
1x 3W4Z-3A130-AB Tie Rod Outer Left,
1x 3W4Z-3A130-AA Tie Rod Outer Right,
1x XW4Z-3A131-CA Tie Rod Inner Left,
1x XW4Z-3A131-DA Tie Rod Inner Right,
4x W520214-S427 or (S441) Tie Rod Outer Nut (HN1) 12 mm,
2x W803637-S100 or W713882-S437 Tie Rod Nut (HN2) 14 mm.
I now this does not include the boots or the clamps that go over the inner tie rods ends. Still working on the part numbers for the clamps. I got the part numbers for the boots, I think.
Did I miss something? Likely will try to purchase the parts sometime this month or early next month.
Thanks
I was told by the Ford mechanic that both upper control bushings need to be replaced and the passenger inner tie rod needs replaced. I am going to replace both UCA and all four tie rode ends.
I ordered a shop manual on CD of Ebay will arrive today, but from what I could gather from this site, Motorcraft parts do not come with new bolts. I will be buying Ford parts, not aftermarket parts, I do not trust them. So, the parts and the hardware I need are as follows:
1x 4Z-3084-AA: RH Upper,
1x 4Z-3085-AA: LH Upper,
2x N807144-S441 or (N807144-S60; W520214-S441): Ball Joint Nuts (HN3) 12 mm,
4x W706005-S439 or (W706005-S426) Bolt for Upper Control Arm (HB5) 10 mm,
4x W520213-S427 Nut Adjusting Screw For Upper Control Arm (HN1) 10 mm,
1x 3W4Z-3A130-AB Tie Rod Outer Left,
1x 3W4Z-3A130-AA Tie Rod Outer Right,
1x XW4Z-3A131-CA Tie Rod Inner Left,
1x XW4Z-3A131-DA Tie Rod Inner Right,
4x W520214-S427 or (S441) Tie Rod Outer Nut (HN1) 12 mm,
2x W803637-S100 or W713882-S437 Tie Rod Nut (HN2) 14 mm.
I now this does not include the boots or the clamps that go over the inner tie rods ends. Still working on the part numbers for the clamps. I got the part numbers for the boots, I think.
Did I miss something? Likely will try to purchase the parts sometime this month or early next month.
Thanks
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
No need to use factory nuts if they are hard to get or are too expensive. A nut is a nut, and you can buy new grade 8 nuts with the nylon inserts from a hardware store. Pair them up with an appropriately sized washer and you're golden.
My own preference for critical suspension nuts like this is to have a cotter pin through the bolt, because nothing's backing off that. Worked well for decades, and so far as I know is still the standard in the aviation field.
My own preference for critical suspension nuts like this is to have a cotter pin through the bolt, because nothing's backing off that. Worked well for decades, and so far as I know is still the standard in the aviation field.
01V8DubVLS
LVC Member
Does anyone know the actual measurements of HN2? (needed for the outboard toe link bolt/lower arm to knuckle bolt)
Thank You
Thank You
jmeecer
Active LVC Member
Hi all
Was told today when I had my LS in the shop for an oil change that I needed to replace my lower ball joints. My question is should I get replacement ball joints and press them in? Or should I replace the steering knuckle? I am planning on replacing the upper and lower control arms this winter anyway bad bushings. Since, I am going to have to buy new lower control arms, should I just upgrade the lower ball joints to the 16mm ball joint and get a new steering knuckles. Plan on keeping the car for a while. As plan on replacing all four tie rods end (already purchased), sway bar end links (already purchased) and aftermarket sway bar bushing (not yet purchased). Any thoughts. Also need to replace front and rear brake pads and rotors.
Was told today when I had my LS in the shop for an oil change that I needed to replace my lower ball joints. My question is should I get replacement ball joints and press them in? Or should I replace the steering knuckle? I am planning on replacing the upper and lower control arms this winter anyway bad bushings. Since, I am going to have to buy new lower control arms, should I just upgrade the lower ball joints to the 16mm ball joint and get a new steering knuckles. Plan on keeping the car for a while. As plan on replacing all four tie rods end (already purchased), sway bar end links (already purchased) and aftermarket sway bar bushing (not yet purchased). Any thoughts. Also need to replace front and rear brake pads and rotors.