Words of Wisdom needed (front end parts goin in)

The Rev

The Rev

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Ok I got the majority of my parts in.

Uppers
Lowers
Inners
Outers

I also ordered swaybar end links and a strut rod bushing kit.

Should I;

Do what I have now and the others later? (doesn't matter to me if I have to do more work)

Now does anyone have any advice for me? I read mikes tech article about ball joint replacement and it mentioned a 23mm socket. The biggest I have is 19mm, but if needed I'll go buy/rent more. been soaking everything with pb blaster and I got my torch ready! I plan on starting around 8am tomorrow
 
The strut rod bushing kit will have to go in with the lower control arm out of the k-member. I have done them without doing so, but its really hard to get the arm far enough back to get the bushings on. Since you will have a new arm I would not risk damaging it. I think it would be best to have everything in hand before you start.
 
If you say so! I think I'll be needing to buy some tools as well based on the tech articles I've read I need extensions? I'm sure once I get it jacked up it'll be clear enough.
 
I've done all those repairs without any special tools other than my socket set and breaker bar.

But do them all at once. It's not worth doing it any other way. Not to mention the numerous trips to the alignment shop it'll save you. I HAD to do it piece by piece because of ignorance, and I really regretted. Never again.

Also, remember that many of these parts are interchangeable with T-bird parts and can then be easier to find in stock and less expensive.
 
Use some whiteout to Mark where the strut rods are before you undo them so you can get the alignment back close to the way it was.

Removing those strut rod bushings requires a good bit of muscle. 'Hope you've got a breaker bar.
 
I just did this the other night. I was wrenchin in my brothers shop till 2 am. Being a michigan car driven for winters upon winters many of the bolts and nuts werent too easy to get loose. BTW. You will need to take your master cylinder off to get to the drivers side rear uca nut. Not a big deal though. Id say do the lowers and the strut rods first as they will be the most time consuming.
 
There is an access hole if you remove the fender liner to get to that bolt with a u-joint and extensions. No need to take the brake cylinder off.
 
unity said:
There is an access hole if you remove the fender liner to get to that bolt with a u-joint and extensions. No need to take the brake cylinder off.
Click to expand...

I read that and looked at it real close. Had the ratchet, ext, swivel & socket all set up.

I was doing the brakes anyway. I took the M/C off.
 
Yes I saw where someone [?] had done that.

Thought about it for a few seconds with taking a holesaw to it and then rejected that idea. To "getto" for my taste.

Now if I'd had the right tool to use a holesaw and then mushroom the opening to stiffen the panel up and also have the correct size rubber plug, then that is something else.
 
I try to stay away from cutting into my car just to be lazy and not remove a few extra bolts and/or nuts.
 
unity said:
There is an access hole if you remove the fender liner to get to that bolt with a u-joint and extensions. No need to take the brake cylinder off.
Click to expand...

Rev you don't need to take off the master cylinder... once you move the air bag take off the lock on the bolt head which is the one that goes to the nut behind the master cylinder. It works best if you have a friend to hold the 18mm wrench on the nut but then you can use a socket on the bolt head and it comes off nice and easy.

I've done this a couple of times. I looked at that access hole and it still looks like a bugger.
 
I didn't remove the master cylinder, strut, cut or use a access hole or break off the tabs. Just patience and wrench flipping got her out from what I remember...few years back.
 
Yeah I was reading a few things and it says to remove air strut, master cylinder, all this stuff. I'm just waiting for these parts now. Once I get the parts I'll assume I'll run into a few walls and figure it out
 
Doing a new front end was one of the best things my Mark ever had done. It does ride stiff for a little bit until things are broke into so don't worry about it riding rough after all this.
 
I cringe when I drive now, I'm actually pretty pissed off that the rest of these parts aren't here yet. I have to go pickup a breaker bar and some other tools. If I get through this project I'll tackle my check engine light, it has to be the 02s.

Which reminds me, I have a code scanner for sale for ford eec iv vehicles, it works for 94 and 95 marks but not my 93 wtf. any reasonable offer accepted
 
Ok I got pissed off that my swaybar end links aren't in so I'm doing it without em. That looks like a 2 second replacement anyway, and it should be here today while I'm doing everything else.

Just a recap as to what I'm putting in

Uppers/lowers
Inners/outers
strut rod bushings (to the control arm? this is the kit I bought as opposed to the one to the frame, I dont know where these are gonna go yet if someone could help great)

and the end links when EVER they get here.

I dont think I'll need to take off the master cylinder for the uppers yet, but how do I get the ball joint disconnected from the knuckle after I get the bolt out? Just pry it, because thats my plan for now.
 
Go to Auto Zone and rent a ball joint seperator. I think it was 10 bucks and you can keep it, or return it and get your 10 bucks back. Great rental program.
 
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38649

38649.gif



This set is for ball joints and tierod ends. [smaller ones] It will help with the sway bar links too.
 
Advance Auto has a loaner program also.
On your control arm bushings I would replace both ends as they both need to flex and more than likely the other side needs replacing also. Now is the time to do them both, due to having take everything apart just to replace them.
 
the 2 rear bolts on the uppers are killing me.

how do i get the rubber dryer vent dust covers off the inner tierods? I dont want to rip it.

and what size bolts are the ones on the lower control arm, I have 20, 23, and 24 mm, i figure its a 21 or 22.

Nothing is off yet, and I have a sunburn this isnt gonna be fun
 
Driver's side rear upper bolt: pain in the butt. Do that first and the passenger side will seem like a walk in the park :D

The boots. First you use a pliers to squeeze the outer clip, although you probably figured it out. The inner I used a flat-head screwdriver to CAREFULLY push on the metal clip while prying underneath a little. Rotate, push some more until it slides off. To put on it just slid back on with a little work.

Not sure on the lower bolt size.
 
my sister is making her 3rd trip to the zone right now, they suck over there but its only 3/4 mile away and advance is 4 miles across the city.

Yeah the first clip was easy on the tierods, I'll take it easy on the inner.

This really isn't fun, but I did find out that my drivers side bag is an arnott....but the passengers not so much
 
It would be a good idea to clean the bags really well and spray with silicone.

At least when this is done, if you ever have to replace the bags you know how easy it is!
 
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