Why is my fan coming on? 2005 Lincoln LS V8

Basically steps 1-6 is what I'm referring to. Can I just start at 7/8? And not remove engine fill? Guess it doesn't really matter though. Just less coolant loss.
 
If it was me I would start at step #1 and move through each step in order.
 
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Lestesian said:
hey man im not an expert like everybody else here, but i do own a 2000 LS and i had the same problem with my car. The fan would kick into high gear at times and the gauge would not show over heating.

i discovered many many water leaks, Degas bottle, and a few hoses, cracked radiator head. i fixed all that, and made sure that when running the car that the Upper radiator Hose has Pressure, if theres no pressure in the upper hose more than likely you have a leak and the car will try to cool by engaging the very High CFM hydraulic fan.
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He has an electric fan, but all of your points are very valid.
 
As I mentioned in my first post I've put a leak tester on it and it help pressure properly. So there are no leaks (now). I did have a crack in the topen of my radiator also though. Only cooling component that hasn't been replaced is the lower radiator hose and it's not leaking (yet). Well and water pump, but I pulled it off about 4 5 months ago and the fins looked great.
 
Lumbeeindian17 said:
As I mentioned in my first post I've put a leak tester on it and it help pressure properly. So there are no leaks (now). I did have a crack in the topen of my radiator also though. Only cooling component that hasn't been replaced is the lower radiator hose and it's not leaking (yet). Well and water pump, but I pulled it off about 4 5 months ago and the fins looked great.
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Sadly, this is not proof that there is no leak. I used to think that it was, till it happened to me. It wouldn't leak cold,warm, or hot, engine running or no, while I pressure tested it. I would leak while driving. It was very frustrating and very difficult to find. Unlike your case, I was not having any overheating. I was just finding a little coolant on top of the engine.
 
Interesting. Think I should replace the lower radiator hose? The coolant level is staying steady. I'll probably do the bleeding procedure first. Maybe this afternoon.
 
My bet is still on the aftermarket thermostat (based on what I can see from here)...
 
I could see that possibility, the old water outlet was brittle and the part that that the thermostat fit up against was broken in parts so it wasn't "pretty and round" like the new one I put on. If it is the thermostat's fault that's an easy fix so I would be happy with that.
 
That upper radiator hose was the second to last thing I replaced. Less than a month ago. Since I did have plastic parts to break off the old water outlet and the old thermostat housing I could see that causing some problems with mine too. I'll update everybody once I bleed it and see what it does.
 
Lestesian said:
... Steam in the system will RAPIDLY destroy all of the plastic parts ...
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Imma not even going to bother explaining it anymore. God knows we've done so hundreds of times. Perhaps Joe has some repetitive energy left over.

Brown pitting ... plastic has micro holes, now throw several years of excessive heat cycling with a corrosive chemical at it.

Steam :confused:
 
Lumbeeindian17 said:
Can't I just take the thermostat out and see if it runs hot? Or nah?
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Yes, as a temporary measure. However, you need the OEM (Ford) housing, crossover tube, and thermostat. The restriction may be in the aftermarket housing/crossover. If so, removing the thermostat as a test may not help.
 
upload_2017-2-8_9-24-21.png


This what I need?

parts.JPG
 
My joke didn't show up, but here is the description
Bar's Leaks 1150 Grey Cooling System Repair
 
Don't even joke about that stuff. You may have to replace everything to get rid of it, even the engine. (This statement is for the benefit of others that may read this thread, clearly Lumbeeindian17 does not plan to use it.)

I see that I am not the only one having problems with some links.
 
Haha, I like you, you're funny, ... new, doesn't read very well and clearly misinformed ... but funny nonetheless.

Rocket scientist? Awesome! ... and here my folks thought I wouldn't amount to anything.in life.

Last guy thought it was 16psi of pressure.

Lets hear your intelligence on this steamboat theory of yours?

Very interested. ...
 
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If you want to replace the aftermarket housing and thermostat with OEM these are the parts pulled from Rockauto.

1. Thermostat Housing = MOTORCRAFT RH134 {#2C3T14B060BM, 3W438594AB, 3W4Z8592AA} W/ Connector, Water Outlet Hose; W/O Thermostat Housing

2. Thermostat = MOTORCRAFT RT1163 {#2W938575AB, 2W9Z8575AB} 190 Degree Thermostat Info Bypass; w/ 37mm

3. Seal installed on outlet pipe = MOTORCRAFT RTS1079 {#2W9Z8590AB}
 
Wabel said:
If you want to replace the aftermarket housing and thermostat with OEM these are the parts pulled from Rockauto.

1. Thermostat Housing = MOTORCRAFT RH134 {#2C3T14B060BM, 3W438594AB, 3W4Z8592AA} W/ Connector, Water Outlet Hose; W/O Thermostat Housing

2. Thermostat = MOTORCRAFT RT1163 {#2W938575AB, 2W9Z8575AB} 190 Degree Thermostat Info Bypass; w/ 37mm

3. Seal installed on outlet pipe = MOTORCRAFT RTS1079 {#2W9Z8590AB}
Click to expand...

Missing
3W4Z-8548-AD - crossover/water inlet - this maybe aftermarket too, usually it all comes as a set from the aftermarket.
3W4Z-8A511-AB - Engine fill cap - Will the aftermarket fill cap fit the Ford housing, or did he keep the original cap (these do crack and fail too).
 
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