Where to start on a B1342 code

Lincoln LS

  1. Jtown

    Jtown Active LVC Member

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    After searching here, I see a B1342 (ABS module) code conjoined with several other codes that I don't have so it gets confusing as to what's up. 2003 3.9l w/ 54K no rust NC car.

    I do get a P2106 (throttle body control) but believe I am supposed to address the B1342 first.

    Just did a full set of Ford coils and plugs and installed a new battery after these codes. Just prior to this issue I did new upper and lower control arms. New pads, rotors all 4 corners also.

    Cars runs fine for about 15 -20 then throws a dashboard full of warning lights including traction control, parking brake warning, and E safe. I disconnect the battery for a while and it clears but comes back when I drive it. I understand there are different levels of "E" safe mode. Mine has decent power, systems seems to function, no brake flutter, power steering gets harder, didn't tryout with heavy accelerator but I don't think it will let the rpms go over 2K.

    Recently noted battery drain during this issue. Car used to sit for weeks and start right up but before I replaced it, battery would drain after a week (not sure because I don't drive it much). That's why I replaced the battery, the fail safe happened at about the same time so I thought it might have been an issue. I do believe I have some current drain issue because the new one will drain after a while so it's on a trickle charger.

    I suck electrical issues. Going to test the alternator (tested good at O'Reilly's). They told me the codes they found (P2106 and B1342). Checked the throttle body; looks clean. I've read a ton of things to try and look at from alternator, eco, ABS module, throttle body, coils, grounds... Will good scan equipment get me more focused on a possible repair?
     
  2. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    Are you certain that it is B1342?
    B1342 is an internal fault with the electric parking brake module, and would not be related to the ABS, and should not be related to the ETC failsafe. What other codes do you get? Are you certain that the alternator is working correctly? The symptoms do suggest alternator. Plug a digital voltmeter in and drive around. It should stay around 14.2 volts. It should not go under 13.8 or over 14.6V, and it should not "wiggle" much.
     
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    • Jtown

      Jtown Active LVC Member

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      Joegr, Those are two codes the guy at Advanced Auto gave but that was prior to new coils and plugs and new battery. I'll check the alternator as you suggested. Advanced also said the alternator was good but who knows if that is accurate.

      My parking brake warning is also part of the cornucopia of dash lights that come after a few mile drive. I didn't see anything obvious broken after just going under the car on my lift.
       
    • AmsterDutch

      AmsterDutch Dedicated LVC Member

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      You can download Forscan and see your Generator/alternator in live time on Dashboard...GENCOM % Forscan Lite is available on your smart phone with Bluetooth for another more flexible option which allows you to see the monitor without lugging around a Laptop computer...What kind of battery do you have...Brand? Remember Normally a charged cell in rest is around 2.1 Volts which yields in 12.6 Volts for a charged battery at rest. When the battery is being charged by the car alternator the voltage will vary usually between 14 and 14.4 Volts. When the engine is turned off the voltage will drop back to 13.2 and slowly settles back at around 12.8 - 12.6 Volts.
       
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      • Jtown

        Jtown Active LVC Member

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        Thanks Dutch, I did read your previous posts on checking a battery. Car is in such good shape, I hate to give up on it. I'll work on it tomorrow Memorial Day.
         
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        • Caleb

          Caleb Active LVC Member

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          Following.. just made a thread on this myself, having similar issues.

          alternator was previously putting out over 14v as joe mentioned earlier, but I have a scan gauge running all the time, and I have seen it dipping down around 13.8 some. I was thinking this was acceptable, so maybe something to look at.

          I’ll now be looking at some grounds and relays for it also, as I have had some corrosion and relay problems.

          just to note - the only problem I can notice when mine enters failsafe mode is my overdrive gear wont work, and when I let off the gas, it feels like it drops off accelerator hard instead of easing down, if that makes sense
           
        • joegr

          joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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          When you say 5th gear won't work, what do you mean? Do you mean it downshifts to 4th and won't go above that? Have you tried manual shifting? Or, is it slipping or freewheeling in 5th?
          Also, if you really mean over drive, then you lose 3rd gear too?
           
        • Caleb

          Caleb Active LVC Member

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          still learning this car is such a breed of its own, I’ll elaborate.

          feels as if it is in 5th gear, but RPM will be higher than normal. Usually, RPM will be about 2K @ 60MPH, when the failsafe hits, I see about 2300RPM @ 60MPh
           
        • joegr

          joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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          So maybe the torque converter is unlocking then? I think that would fit with having a problem with vehicle speed data.
           
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          • Jtown

            Jtown Active LVC Member

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            Battery is a new Autocraft (Advanced Auto) with 750 cca@ 0*F and 935 cca@ 32*F.

            While running volts are 14.28.
            Before start up at rest it's 12.32.
            I didn't drive it and measure as advised but it you think the alternator is an issue, I can get a plug in meter.

            I just put in all new Ford coils and plugs.

            Keep in mind the car throws all kinds of idiot lights and goes into "E" mode.
             
          • lincoln_zero

            lincoln_zero Dedicated LVC Member

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          • Jtown

            Jtown Active LVC Member

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            I don't have an issue paying more for a nicer hardwired one. What do guys here recommend?

            Shouldn't drive the car to a shop with all these issues, correct? Scanner may save. me some damage,
             
          • 04_Sport_LS

            04_Sport_LS Dedicated LVC Member

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            I may be wrong... but I think it's possible that the alternator can test ok... but the LS may not charge properly... because the voltage is regulated by the computer. IIRC... the computer can shut off charging/voltage regulation when the LS is sitting at a stop light... depending on accessory usage.
             
          • 04_Sport_LS

            04_Sport_LS Dedicated LVC Member

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            As far as finding a battery drain you could disconnect the cable from the positive
            terminal... and hook up a voltmeter between the cable and and terminal.

            Then start pulling relays and fuses... one at a time... until you see the drain go away.

            Then look in the owners manual to determine which circuit(s) are the problem.
             
          • Jtown

            Jtown Active LVC Member

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            Thanks 04-Sport, I can do that. Will try today.
             
          • 04_Sport_LS

            04_Sport_LS Dedicated LVC Member

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            And I meant disconnect the negative terminal... not positive. It was late/early when I posted.

            Same procedure though.
             
          • 04_Sport_LS

            04_Sport_LS Dedicated LVC Member

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            Don't forget that there are a couple fuse/relay boxes on this car.
             
          • 04_Sport_LS

            04_Sport_LS Dedicated LVC Member

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            And the "E" should be on the left side of the cluster... which is for the transmission.

            With all the electrical issues... you may have a corroded wire harness somewhere.

            If you have a sunroof... you may have water draining into the kick panel areas... or the trunk.
             
          • joegr

            joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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            Three, actually.
             
          • Tomas

            Tomas New LVC Member

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            I know this for a fact. I had a leak in my sun roof and every time it rained hard, my driver's door pocket would fill up with water.
             
          • 04_Sport_LS

            04_Sport_LS Dedicated LVC Member

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            You are correct sir.:)

            I was going to say 3... but am drawing a blank where the 3rd one is, (besides engine bay and trunk).

            Part-timers is starting to get bad.:rolleyes:
             
          • joegr

            joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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            Trunk
            Engine bay
            Cabin (passenger kick panel)
             
          • Jtown

            Jtown Active LVC Member

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            You guys are spot on! When all this code issue (see original post in this thread) a 1342 & 2106 began, the car never saw ran in over two years. When I moved to TN I left the car outside. This is when I saw the water issues inside, drivers map pocket filled and the drivers floor soaked. The car got some use (finally after a couple years) and this is when the codes came up and the "E" mode.

            I just dropped the headliner (as instructed by you guys) and found the front two drains completely. disconnected. I did a post showing my corrections. Now that that is fixed, on to these codes.

            I'm going to get an updated code scan to see if anything has changed. If I disconnect the battery and take the car out, I don't get a code or engine safe mode until about 15 minutes of driving.

            SHOULD I CLEAR THE CODES AND START OVER?

            The car show no outwardly visible corrosion. A North Carolina (inland) car and garaged it's whole life. 54K miles. Bottom super clean. No telling how long the sunroof leaked but I didn't see it for at least two years. Original owner may have had an issue but they fixed everything at the dealer so I think I would have seen an issue in the work order file I have since new.

            After the new battery, I let the car sit inside for several days without a battery tender and it dropped to 12.3v or so but started up. Does not seem to completely drain but I will do the check recommended. Before the new battery, the old one would stay strong for months but once it was left outside and water began to show up, the old battery died quickly even after charging so I put a new Duracell in and it seems okay (no complete drain).
             
          • 04_Sport_LS

            04_Sport_LS Dedicated LVC Member

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            I can't remember the last time I had a super clean bottom. :D

            (sorry... I just couldn't resist... and I AM talking about my LS... maybe)
             
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