crm2kmsu
LVC Member
I have an 02 LS V8, 35k miles. (just got it) I turn the advancetrac off and let er rip. I cant bust the wheels lose. I take off fast but I cant get them to turn just by stepping on it. Is this typical?
What the hell, I cant peel out.
- Thread starter crm2kmsu
- Start date
Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
It takes practice. The LS 'anti-dive' rear suspension (keeps the nose from diving while braking at speed) also squats the weight over the rear end to improve traction. You can do it - practice.
mholhut
Dedicated LVC Member
Delicate balance is what's needed. Too little pressure on the brakes and you'll scoot forward... too much brake pressure and you'll start pressing the rear brakes. Make sure you're tires are properly inflated too. Cripe, if my car with 106K can do it, your's certainly can!
whatsupadrian
Dedicated LVC Member
mholhut said:
Tires have a lot to do with it too, My stock continentals can light up without needing to power break and will leave two burns. But my pirelli's only light up one wheel with a very hard power break, that rubber is so soft and the wheel ratio really takes some of the all ready lacking low end torque. Try parking the rear wheels on a smoother surface just to break them loose. The slickest thing is paint on the road by the way. Once when i knew i was getting new tired i burned through a speed bump. I parked rear wheels on the speed bump which was covered with yelow paint and i burned right through the asphalt.
Dutch
Well-Known LVC Member
If you have sticky tires, you have to power brake. Hold brake, rev engine, release brake and floor gas.crm2kmsu said:
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rocket5979
Guest
For all of you talking of this powerbraking, why dont you just put down the $75 and 30 minutes to install a line-lock kit? Hold brakes, push lock button let off brakes and only fronts are kept locked. That way you can have full brake force on the fronts with zero brake force on the rears.
Oxyargon03
Active LVC Member
So you have to hold the brake just a little to lock the front wheels and then the harder you press it, it'll lock the rear wheels too? How neat. I'm hesitant to put any kind of beating on my car. But i like smoke :/
FreeFaller
USAF LS8
It's all about finesse with the accelerator. Like Quick said...practice.
Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
rocket5979 said:
not on a car the ABS.
I have used Line-locks on several of my vechiles - but they are not meant for a car with ABS.
crm2kmsu
LVC Member
http://www.1010tires.com/Michelin_Pilot_HX_MXM4__tires.html
These are my tires. They get really bad reviews. I think I will invest in snow tires this winter.
These are my tires. They get really bad reviews. I think I will invest in snow tires this winter.
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rocket5979
Guest
Quik LS said:
There has always been a debate on this. Alot of people use these on cars with ABS andhave great success. You just got to placethe line-lock solenoid downstream of the ABS module after the brake booster. If you install it between the booster and the module then you will have problems. The only thing you will need to do is instead of using on solenoid before the module makes a Y to the front left and front right brakes, you install two separate solenoids into the two separate lines after the module. Twist the activation wires together in parrallel so as when wired to the switch to lock both fronts at the same time. No problems at all. With older ABS systems people have gotten away with using only one solenoid. I would think the LS would require 2 due to its relatively complex traction system having to tie into the ABS.
Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
By adding a line-lock to the front brakes - you'll simply have the ABS motor pulsing the heck out of the front lines - against the locks, while trying to add brake to the rear wheels you are trying to spin. Although they advertise the newer kits as 'compatible with ABS' - IMHO - it still seems hard on the ABS system
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rocket5979
Guest
Quik LS said:
Why would the traction control or even ABS try to control an accelerating traction problem with touching anything in the front brakes? That would be totally backwards and make any traction problem that really would have been there, worse. If anything, it would only be the TC that would interfere to control traction to the rear wheels by applying the brake to the opposite rear wheel to serve as a simulated locked differential to get the spinning wheel slowed down enough to get traction while also sending power over to the other wheel. I cannot see it interfering either. Besides, we have a switch to shut that off which people should do when burning out anyways.
Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Right - like we posted above - turn traction control off - but that does not turn off your ABS.
ABS pulses the line pressure to the wheel that it senses has stopped turning - or locked - to prevent skidding, it 'pulses' the line pressure to the brakes on that wheel, to keep it rolling and turning - not skidding. As long as the brake pedal is depressed and one or more wheels are not moving (but less than all 4 - 4 wheels not moving means you are stopped) the ABS tries to pulse. That why line-locks can be bad for cars with ABS - as soon as the rear wheel start to move the ABS can see that as moving with the brakes on, front wheels locked up and will try to pulse them.
You can do this yourself by doing a brake stand. If you allow the car to drift forward slightly as you hit the gas the ABS will not cut in - but it you hit the gas real hard, brake hard down and no forward movement - the ABS starts to shimmy the pedal.
ABS pulses the line pressure to the wheel that it senses has stopped turning - or locked - to prevent skidding, it 'pulses' the line pressure to the brakes on that wheel, to keep it rolling and turning - not skidding. As long as the brake pedal is depressed and one or more wheels are not moving (but less than all 4 - 4 wheels not moving means you are stopped) the ABS tries to pulse. That why line-locks can be bad for cars with ABS - as soon as the rear wheel start to move the ABS can see that as moving with the brakes on, front wheels locked up and will try to pulse them.
You can do this yourself by doing a brake stand. If you allow the car to drift forward slightly as you hit the gas the ABS will not cut in - but it you hit the gas real hard, brake hard down and no forward movement - the ABS starts to shimmy the pedal.
crm2kmsu
LVC Member
So what problems do you risk by brake torquing?
Dutch
Well-Known LVC Member
It generates a ton of heat in the tranny, which is very bad. If you're going to do it, do it in small doses.crm2kmsu said:
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rocket5979
Guest
Quik LS said:
The ABS will not even know that the vehicle is not moving because the line-lock is installed after the module. If you take a look at it from the ABS modules point of view it doesnt have anything giving it input of any brakes being on. The only data it could have coming into it would be from the TC, which of course,would be turned off so that does not count. I could see the ABS doing the pulsing the fronts in a decellerating front wheels locked mode, but not an accellerating front wheels locked mode. If anything, if it sensed the front wheels being locked while the rears are accellerating it would try to unlock them. Doing tests with the brakes on and pressing hard or just a little bit will always yield different results than with a line-lock because the ABS senses the brakes being pressed but ABS should not sense the line-lock because it is after the module. I would say that using a line-lock would be better for a persons vehicle than brake torqueing it. Of course, either way it wont be too good for that open rear end in the back unless it happens to spin both rears.