What special tools do I need for a coolant flush for this pressurized coolant system?

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  1. AmsterDutch

    AmsterDutch Well-Known LVC Member

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    I want to do a coolant flush but I'm hesitant due to the pressured cooling system in the LS. Do I need any special tools and/or instruments to hook up to this system? Appreciate all the pearls and tips in advance
     
  2. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    What do you mean by "flush?" And if you really mean power flush, why do you need it?
     
  3. AmsterDutch

    AmsterDutch Well-Known LVC Member

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    Yes, I guess that you could say a power flush and I have no idea when the coolant system was flushed. It would be nice to know that this was done ✅ I would like to have it done before the winter hits also the odometer keeps falling back to 170,000 so I have no idea how many miles are on this car just happened this weekend
     
  4. AmsterDutch

    AmsterDutch Well-Known LVC Member

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    Coolant Flush/Fill

    It's that time of year. This works on the '00-'02 V8s, the '03+ V8s should be similar but I don't know for sure.

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    FLUSHING FILLING AND BLEEDING THE AIR FROM THE 3.9L V8 LINCOLN LS COOLING SYSTEM

    The following is based on my experience changing the coolant on my 2000 LS-8. I have listed the tools required and an overview of the process it takes to achieve a 50/50 mix. At the end, I have included the directions from the 2001 shop manual w/ some of my own hints added in for clarification. The 3.0L V6 has an additional engine bleed valve, and I apologize for not knowing where this is located (perhaps a fellow V6 owner can assist here). I will leave the standard warnings / disclaimers to the shop manual section. The only thing I can add is to make sure the car is on a level surface (this may or may not affect how much coolant can be drained from the radiator).


    TOOLS / MATERIALS:

    - 19mm socket for the radiator drain
    - 10mm hex driver for the engine fill cap (located under the engine cover, just in front of the intake manifold) NOTE: Max torque for the engine fill cap is 9-Nm / 80 in-lb / 6.7 ft-lbs!
    - Drain tube for radiator drain (not required, but highly recommended to minimize mess and spillage)
    - Container(s) for disposal / recycling of old coolant
    - Quart-size measuring cup (clean)
    - 2 gallons of new coolant (don't use pre-mixed / diluted coolant)

    OVERVIEW:

    The 3.9L LS cooling systems holds just under 12 quarts of coolant. Only about 4 quarts of coolant can be drained from the radiator. Therefore to achieve a 50/50 mix of new, clean coolant, follow the following general steps:

    1) Drain old coolant (follow DRAINING instructions below).
    2) Fill / bleed system (follow FILLING / BLEEDING instructions below) NOTE: If you desire to use a "Super-Flush" type cleaner, add it to this first fill).
    3) Drain.
    4) Repeat fill / bleed / drain cycle using water only at least 3 times until water is clear coming out of radiator drain.
    5) Fill / bleed using 4 quarts of 100% new coolant (this should bring the system to full w/ a 33% mix).
    6) Drain out ONLY 3 QUARTS from the radiator using the measuring cup. Pour this fluid back into the empty gallon coolant container for later use.
    7) Fill / bleed using 3 quarts of 100% new coolant using the measuring cup (this should bring the system to full w/ a 50% mix).
    8) Combine the last remaining 1 qt of 100% new coolant w/ the 3 qts of 33% mix that was drained from the radiator in step 6) above (this will leave you with a gallon of 50% mix for topping off in the future).


    DETAILS: What follows is from the LS shop manual. I have added step #s and "HINTS" where appropriate.


    SECTION 303-03: Engine Cooling 2001 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

    GENERAL PROCEDURES

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Cooling System Draining, Filling And Bleeding

    DRAINING:

    WARNING: Never remove the pressure relief cap while the engine is operating or when the cooling system is hot. Failure to follow these instructions can result in damage to the cooling system or engine or personal injury. To avoid having scalding hot coolant or steam blow out of the degas bottle when removing the pressure relief cap, wait until the engine has cooled, then wrap a thick cloth around the pressure relief cap and turn it slowly. Step back while the pressure is released from the cooling system. When you are sure all the pressure has been released, (still with a cloth) turn and remove the pressure relief cap.

    CAUTION: The coolant must be recovered in a suitable, clean container for reuse. If the coolant is contaminated it must be recycled or disposed of correctly.

    CAUTION: Care must be taken to ensure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine coolant.

    1) Release the pressure in the cooling system by slowly turning the pressure relief cap one half turn counterclockwise. When the pressure is released, remove the pressure relief cap.

    NOTE: Approximately four liters will drain from the radiator. (HINT: This is pretty close to 4 qts, YMMV.)

    2) Place a suitable container below the radiator draincock. If equipped, disconnect the coolant return hose at the oil cooler. (HINT: I don't think my car was equipped with an oil cooler, so I skipped this step).

    3) Close the radiator draincock when finished. (HINT: Before closing the draincock, it helps to "rinse" the system of old fluid by flushing the degas bottle with water until the drain fluid is clear. Also remove the engine fill cap and flush with water until the drain fluid runs clear. Keeping the engine fill cap ON helps drain the degas bottle. Also, it doesn't hurt to open the heater air bleed valve while draining / rinsing.)



    FILLING / BLEEDING:

    1) On 3.9L engines: Remove the engine fill cap. (HINT: This is located under the engine cover just in front of the intake manifold.)
    On 3.0L engines: Open the engine air bleed.

    2) On all engines: Open the heater air bleed. (HINT: This is a small rubber tube located adjacent to the master brake cylinder. Un-screw the cap to open, it is not necessary to completely remove the cap-screw.)

    3) Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added. (HINT: Keep an eye on the engine fill tube as the fluid may rise up and start to overflow depending on how level the car is. Replace the engine fill cap if this happens. Try to keep the fluid level in the degas bottle in the FULL-COLD range.)

    On 3.0L engines: Close the engine air bleed when coolant begins to escape.

    4) On all engines: Replace the degas bottle cap.

    CAUTION: Care must be taken to ensure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine coolant.

    5) On 3.9L engines: Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open. Replace the engine fill cap. (HINT: This step is not necessary if the engine fill tube overflowed and the cap was reinstalled in step 3) above.)

    6) On all engines: Start the engine and turn the heater to MAX position.

    NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.

    7) Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant comes from it, during engine idle.

    8) Allow the engine to idle for five minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark.

    9) Reopen the heater air bleed to release any entrapped air and close again.

    10) On 3.9L engines: Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater. (HINT: Roll down the windows!)

    On 3.0L engines: Maintain engine speed of 1,500 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.

    11) On all engines: Set the heater temperature setting to 24° C (75° F) and allow the vehicle to idle for two minutes.

    12) Shut the engine off and allow to cool.

    13) After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark.
    FOUND THIS HANDY LITTLE THREAD...DAMN I LOVE THIS FORUM
     
  5. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    Okay, that's not power flushing. That will work if you really want to. However, if your coolant doesn't have clumps or trash in it, there is really no reason to go that far. A [partial] drain and fill is enough if you do it every few years.
    The fill and bleed is a bit different for the 2nd gen.
    2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
     
  6. AmsterDutch

    AmsterDutch Well-Known LVC Member

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  7. AmsterDutch

    AmsterDutch Well-Known LVC Member

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    Might get by with drain and fill I'll know when looking at the old coolant I guess
     

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